msteger

Hi Mark: Since the box in your top photo is the first disconnect after the meter, this first box is the MAIN disconnect and where the bonding screw should be installed to bond the grounded and grounding wires. Everything downstream from this MAIN disconnect would be considered an auxiliary or 'sub panel' and therefore should NOT have bonding screws installed. As Mike noted above, the grounded (neutral) wires need to float in this subpanel and not be connected to the panel or any grounding wires. Of course, the grounding wires in these subpanels must be bonded to the panel. Matt

Hi Joe: Similar to your photo above, but the rake edge is a little longer and comes out at more of a 90 deg angle (right underneath the shingle edge). In your photo above, the edge seems to come out at maybe a 60 deg angle upwards. The rake edge that I am talking about appears to be simply a 90 deg bend along the top edge of the metal fascia and runs underneath the overhanging shingles.

Never saw this until today.. 2 year old home that looks like the roofer bent the metal fascia as to also incorporate a rake edge. The shingle overhang is approx. 2". Something new or bad quality?

The scariest part, guys, is that this was a new house in the fall of 2006. I also found several exposed nail heads that I recommended coating, but that may be a moot point when the client calls the builder and demands a reroof. The client was the home's owner (it was a one year anniversary inspection for a new build), so he was already well aware of other roofing issues since he's had the roofer back 2 or 3 times to fix leaks due to unsealed stack vent boots and valleys. At one point I told the client, looks like the roofer's first day on the job was the day he installed your roof. (I normally wouldn't have said that but the client already knew the roof install was of bad quality).

I agree with everyone's comments above. Definitely recommend a licensed electrician evaluate and replace what is rusty and may not safely function. Every so often I also run into panels (they always seem to be Pushmatic ones!) that the bozo painter forgot to install the panel cover or at least cardboard over the panel before spraying the room. You remove the deadfront cover and almost have to laugh. Like evidence of water and seeing rust in the panel, when we see paint inside the panel, best bet is to have a licensed electrician evaluate it for our liability and the safety of our clients. Like rust, who knows how deep the paint got and may prevent a proper connection.

Were these dual panels to feed one home/structure with dual living areas or a storefront and residential space? Since you mention there is only one meter, I would guess it wasn't two separate living areas (like rentals). Not sure why they'd have two panels when each is only partially populated (each appears to be slightly half full). Generally, I'll see one full main panel and then an auxiliary (sub) panel installed feeding off the main panel. If the only service disconnects to be found are the two MAIN's in each panel, then I could considered both of these as 'main panels', but indeed weird, at least in my neck of the woods. Since you are in VA, I would assume they don't put the main service disconnect outside (like they do out west) and then feed the panel(s) on the home's interior. I have seen a few 400 Amp/240 Volt services in my time, but there is normally a large metal distribution box that feeds each panel. I would also recommend evaluation by a licensed electrician as well as determining if the service cable from the street to the meter is capable of supplying these two panels safely.

Yep..sorry, meant the rake edge. The shingle underneath does stick out past the edge, but the bottom half of each shingle (which is now resting on top) is cut back at the edge. No idea why and I've never seen this type of install. There have indeed been several past leakage issues and this home is not even 1 year old!!! According to the owner, two stack vent boots leaked and were replaced and one of the valleys leaks. As you said, who knows what else is there. I got the impression that whoever installed this roof, this was his 'practice roof' to try out on. Several of the ridge shingles were also sticking up where valleys meet them and not sealed to prevent wind damage or leakage.

Like the others responded above, from the pictures posted, in my opinion, this installation was low quality.

Saw this roof installation from 2006 today. Looks like a guy on his first day as a roofer got really excited to use his utility knife. Most of the shingles are cut at least 1/2" from the edge and this was around the whole perimeter of the home wherever there was an edge. The neighbor's houses did not have this issue. How would you comment? Obviously not a standard install.. Image Insert: 62.55 KB

Did a 2006 build today and noticed that the condensing gas fired furnace's PVC vent pipe penetrated the roof and stopped. No cover or elbow installed. From the exterior (before going inside), I figured this was a plumbing stack vent. Common sense would tell me that this should have a cover of some sort to prevent rain water entry. Suggestions?? The gas water heater's PVC vent did have a cover installed at the top.

Typically 1" of cellulose = R - 3.5

I also use early 60s, but always noted it when I find ungrounded 3 wire type receptacles due to the potential safety issue. I recommend either changing these ungrounded ones back to 2 wire type, replacing with GFCI labeled no equipment ground, or have a licensed electrician rewire these receptacles.

Terminals for more than one wire must be specifically identified for this purpose, either within the equipment instructions or on the terminal itself [reference NEC 110.14(A)]. For example, some Square D and Cutler Hammer circuit breakers rated 30 Amps or less are permitted to have two conductors under each lug and have a special clip built in to the breaker for this purpose.

Do you guys note about the obvious garage firewall violation when pulldown ladders are installed in garages? I see these fairly often and always explain the potential issue with the client and agent. I also note that the install may predate building codes although removal or installing a proper fire resistant cover is recommended. Many other local guys do not even note these, from what other agents tell me. The manufacturers of pulldown ladders apparently also do not inform the customer of the hazards of garage installations.

I would use the phrase "suspected asbestos". I would note that a material found wrapped around some exposed basement plumbing may contain asbestos and to consult a qualified asbestos profession for testing to confirm asbestos content. I do the same when I see old floor tiles (like in a basement), popcorn ceilings, or asbestos siding. Asbestos detection and testing are outside the ASHI/NAHI SOP.

That's weird.. during one inspection while trying to push up the attic access panel, I found a heavy bale of hay sitting on top of the attic access. The hay was not piled up (like in your photo), but rather baled hay sitting on the cover. No explanation.. buyer and I scratched our heads.

It appears to be mold growth.. attic mold is normally evidence of the following: 1. Lack of proper attic ventilation 2. Roof leak in the past 3. Improper ventilation into the attic (bathrooms, kitchen, etc.) (often more than 1 of the above) Often we'll see it on the north facing section of the roof (or other area heavily blocked by trees) due to the cooler temperature and lack of direct sunlight. I would call what you saw out of apparent mold growth and pretty much report what I said above. Maybe more attic ventilation is needed (most homes have too little), maybe the soffits are blocked by insulation, maybe a bathroom fan terminates right near this point, etc.

Good point, Alex. I should have also mentioned breaker tie handles. I always also make sure proper breaker tie handles are installed. I am sure we've all seen nails or copper wire used to mechanically tie two breakers together. Only proper breaker handle ties are to be used for mechanically tying two breakers together for a 240 Volt circuit. The wafer breaker issue is a good point, Chad!

What I do with 240 Volt 3 and 4 prong female receptacles is test the two hot lines for 240 Volts and check each hot line to ground and to neutral (if one exists). I use one of those little 120/240 Volt 2 probe units with LEDs. No need to worry about bus bars in this instance since they will have to be on separate bus bars to get 240 Volts to begin with across both hot lines.

Thanks, Mike.

I always recommend a level 2 clean & service by a qualified chimney professional. This is whether there is a fireplace, wood/coal stove, or the chimney is used for exhausting the HVAC system.

Ditto. You reported this as a defect and the home owner is a moron if they want to push this unto you.

I had to laugh, though. Glad nobody got hurt. Good reason to have the client or agent stay at the attic access opening and not walk the attic. I don't want to be responsible if they do damage.

Yeah, looks like drunk uncle Tom built this home! Must have left the tape measure at home...

Yes, proper ridge and soffit venting should provide a uniform flow of air up underneath the roof sheathing. The 1/150 rule of thumb is if half the ventilation is at the soffits and the rest at ridge. If ridge venting is added (during a re-roof, for example) and gable vents or power vents pre-exist, some shingle manufacturers (such as CertainTeed) require the gable or power units be covered or removed to prevent hot spots. Other major manufacturers (like Tamko and GAF) highly recommend this. Not doing so can void the CertainTeed shingle's warranty. I find this often and it appears that most home inspectors overlook this issue. I report it as Mixed Ventilation Types. Most homes have insufficient attic ventilation.