msteger

What roof needs work?

Good comments guys. Thanks for the discussion. The plastered attic ceiling did not look recently patched, but there were loose pieces of plaster and staining where this vent passes through the ceiling. I think I confused you with my attic description. The attic was partially finished, which meant finished walls and ceiling (lath/plaster), carpet over wood floor, and no heat. The ceiling was not 'partially' plastered but totally plastered, which is how it seems you took my description, Sepefrio. Whether or not it was wet out, I didn't see any way (without going up on the neighbor's roof and walking over) to get up on this home's roof. As I said before, the front porch roof blocks one from using a ladder in the front. The rear yard is fenced in with no openings or gates and there is no walkway b/w the individual rowhome units.

I did not go on the roof due to wet conditions and lack of access. The rear yard is fenced in, there is no access way b/w units, and there was no way to even bring a ladder into the rear yard. The front porch has a roof, so even getting to the upper roof with a ladder would be very difficult. Not sure how a roofer would go about this, unless the roofer went up on a neighbors house and walked over. The attic was partially finished with plaster walls and ceiling. The metal vent runs up approx. 1' to the side of the chimney and even had a slight slope (not perfectly parallel with the chimney), I noticed. Since I could not see the underside of the roof (due to plastered attic ceiling) I could not see daylight, but did see stains on the ceiling and loose plaster. The stains were moisture tested and were dry at this time. The space b/w the metal vent in the attic and the sidewall (to the next unit) was approx. 8~12". The chimney is no longer in use.

Saw this metal vent this morning. It is a B type metal vent for exhausting a gas fired boiler and water heater. There are two pics attached: one from the front of the home and one from the year. You can easily see the thing sloping away from the chimney in the one photo and small brackets in the rear photo. Definitely does not look right... but how would you word the comment? Image Insert: 110.24 KB Image Insert: 96.99 KB

Recalls are not the inspector's job. It is the buyer's duty to do this unless you see something glaring and know that particular model/device was recalled.

Yes, the 29th week of 1983. It's in the serial number. Nice setup in the kitchen. Nudge Nudge.

Here are two brands I see all of the time: Burnham No date code used in serial number. Call 1-888-432-8887 and provide serial number. They will have info of initial buyer and date of purchase. New Yorker Various systems were used. Some newer models have year stamped inside main cover. If you get stuck, call 215-855-8055. I've seen a few EFM units, but didn't know their system.

I saw a very similar scenario yesterday. It was a 4 plex condo and when I went up in the attic, there was 1/2" drywall but no tape/mud at any of the joints. I could see into the adjacent unit's attic through one of the joints. I said to myself 'didn't I just read about this somewhere?'.

A tip I always follow.. when testing wires with my tester, I ALWAYS test the tester first on a wire(s) I know to be hot. I hunt and peck until I find a live wire. This way, I know my tester is working and the battery is OK, and then I can believe my test. I don't want to assume the tester is working and the battery is OK when I test an unknown wire and then assume the wire is not live.

When did they stop using cast iron pipes for sewer connections? Early 1970s?

The reason the trap was installed where it is located is because Bubba ran the pipes from either end and cut the pipes before realizing that he was a little short. All he had left over was some small fittings and a trap, so Bubba primed and glued them to make the two PVC lines meet.

Wow...someone sure went to a lot of trouble to connect all of those neutrals together instead of using a proper terminal bar. Who in the heck would install a panel on the floor? You'd think that would violate the NEC since it can be a hazard to work on it. The electrician would have to lay on the floor or squat down on his knees and bend over which can present a shock hazard. There are only max height requirements, but not min requirements? Nuts. Definitely NOT professional.

When I see missing GFCIs in homes that predate GFCI protection dates, I still recommend GFCI protection be added where currently required for safety reasons.

Same here. .. For liability reasons, I always recommend that electrical repairs be performed by a qualified and licensed electrician, however, if it is just installing a wall plate or something like that, then I don't necessarily say a licensed electrician needs to be hired for that. I do the same for plumbing, HVAC, roofing, etc. issues. I always recommend licensed professionals perform the needed repairs. For minor things, like replacing dryrotted trim, reglazing windows, etc., I say "qualified professional" which can mean handyman. Some handyman in my area will do electrical work, but most won't. Depends on where you are, the local codes, etc. and of course the work needed.

Model number probably does not help as many many units have the same serial number and this may span multiple years. The serial number changes with every single unit. That's the info we need.

The double lugged breaker doesn't appear to be a Square D or Cutler Hammer brand circuit breaker. Can't tell from the blown up picture if the neutral bar is physically connected to the panel or not. Its nice that there are separate terminal bars (as is required for auxiliary panels), but the wiring on the right blocks total view of that terminal bar.

Gotta love the amount of outer sheathing all the way into the panel, too, in your photo. Obviously, a non-professional installation. Definitely call the system out for review by licensed electrician.

Thanks for the update, Kyle. Keep us posted.

1. Does that mean that if a KY home inspector calls out an FPE panel as a safety hazard, that he risks having his licensed revoked? OR, 2. Do they just want the inspector to note it as a potential safety issue and require the inspector to recommend a licensed electrician make the final call? Isn't number 2 what most of us do anyway? Didn't know state inspector boards had this much power to tell inspectors in their state how they were supposed to run their business.

Very interesting work.. BTW, what is the flexible metal ducting on the right side for? Looks like a water heater on the left.

Heck, just still an old sock between the two..

I talked to a plumber yesterday and asked him about the backflow issue. He said these have been pretty standard at least 10 years in the meters.

I think you are close to the mark. I would think the local water utility would know if you gave them home's address or date of construction (or when the water service line was last replaced, for an older home), if a backflow preventer is installed on the service line. Don't know how to do the test, though. Have you called a local plumber?

What does that mean??

Good info.. thanks!