msteger

I recently saw something similar to this. The home's owner was an elderly widow and claimed the roof had just been replaced. When I got up there, I saw something similar, but it was also all rippled and obviously not a new install. The widow apparently even provided the roofer's receipt to the buyer. The asphalt roof condition looked to be well over 5 years old..closer to 10 and within a few years of replacement. Some sketchy roofers out there.. be careful.

Is this due to a lack of H clips, thin sheathing, or settlement or something else? Looks like the shingles just magnify the issue.

Heck, I see this sort of stuff almost everyday! I regularly see improperly installed electric eye units.

I recommend chimney caps and a level 2 clean/service on all chimneys I see. There is too much down there that I can't see... missing or cracked or misaligned terra cotta, cracked bricks, missing mortar, nests and blockages, etc. Why take on all of this added liability?

Does anyone out there have manufacturer date codes for hot water boilers? I know there is a good one for furnaces in the Library, but I need one for boilers... anyone? I called Burnham the other day with a serial number and there was absolutely no way I would have known the year of make from the serial number. The unit was made in 1986, but there no 8s or 6s in the serial number. Guess Burnham uses a secret code system. I see lots of New Yorker and Peerless boilers but mostly Burnham units around here.

It's not a HOT water heater.

I agree 100%. Call it out and have a licensed plumber do it right. You should have held a contest with that 1st photo... who can find the 8 things wrong in this picture and win a new 1 million candlepower flash light!

For glass to melt, that water heater would have to get pretty darn hot! Probably has to do with manufacturing cost AND to see more water waters..

I'd also agree that the home owner is responsible. Install a pressure reducer and be done with it.

Looks like some of my text books in my first year in college for my electrical engineering degree..

Who knows.. but certainly call it out for Level 2 clean/service. Recommend a chimney sweep check out what else is going on down there.

That is what I reported. Consult a qualified fireplace professional to verify installation is to manufacturer's specs.

What are the clearance requirements for gas fireplace vents? Today I ran into one installed under a wood deck and approx. 4' to the side of a basement window. Just looked like trouble. Any help is appreciated. Image Insert: 645.39 KB

Yep.. I am an electrical engineer, so that I why I 'sarcastically' made that post...

This pic illustrates exactly why there are so many problems with EIFS if the details are done incorrectly. That type of flashing is common here for all wall cladding types; maybe it isn't common in other regions. Done properly, it's fine. (For a typical composition shingle, anyway.) It can't be seen easily in the photo, but there is a hemmed back edge under the shingles which keeps water from running under the shingles. But if it does not terminate OUTSIDE the wall cladding, be it brick, vinyl, wood, or stucco-like material of whatever type, you are going to have big problems since you are literally funneling water into the wall cavity. The unfortunate thing is that it usually does not cause enough damage to be discovered until well after the new-home warranty is up. Where's the kickout flashing?

I think the foil backed stuff is actually polystyrene? It is a radiant barrier like others above said. I've also seen it installed b/w drywall and studs, and foil tape is used at joints to continue the moisture barrier of the inner most foil layer.

Actually, aren't they detecting an uncancelled electric field?

I don't think a PDF file can be reformatted.

Doesn't the new 2006 IRC require bathroom vents (such as this) to actually vent outside and does not allow these to vent just at the soffit? In other words, instead of the vent terminating just inside the soffit, I believe the new 2006 IRC requires the vent to terminate PAST the soffit (literally now outside) to prevent mold growth on roof sheathing, etc.

Are you saying there are actually "lamp socket history buffs"?!?

It puzzles me that you guys out west have your electrical panels and/or main disconnects outside. I've heard of this before and every where I saw it mentioned said most areas forbid home owners from locking their main disconnect in case the fire dept. or other needs to get to it. A few mobile home parks around here, however, do have the main disconnect panel in the side yard, and these are almost always rusted out. Heck, growing up, if I were out west, I would have had fun going around shutting off everyone's power and messing with them.

Hi Charlie: The whitish film you mention on the aerators would make me think of calcium and magnesium. The sort of stuff that a water softener should help remove from the water supply. You tend to also see clogged shower heads from the same problem. The chemical leaching issue relating to new PEX installs, I don't believe, had to do with residue accumulating on fixtures or aerators. Matt

You didn't say if there was any voltage at this odd-shaped receptacle (photos 1 and 2)? I've never seen the sort of receptacle in your photo, but it is a little curious..

Haven't heard of these pressure issues with PEX. Pretty standard in PA. However, I have seen documentation about chemical leaching with regards to new PEX installations. As water is flushed through a new install, some of the chemicals in the material itself, are known to leach out and after a short time, the risk diminishes.

Personally, I carry a 27' aluminum extension ladder. I only put the ladder on the ground (grass, sidewalk, patio) or on a wood deck (assuming there is a staircase to get it up there). I do not put my ladder on roofs to get up higher. I've seen inspectors puncture rubber and rolled roofs, so I don't put my extension ladder on these types of roofs. If I can't reach a flat roof safely from the ground (or a window), I note that it is not safely accessible in the report. I don't want to be a statistic. For pitched roofs, I see what I can from the ground using visual aid. I get up on just about every single level (ranch) and split level, unless weather conditions prevent safe access. My ladder reaches most 2 stories houses as well, although if the ladder barely reaches the gutter, I don't chance it. I see some old 2 and 3 story row homes with roofs that I can't reach, although many of the 3 story units have a rear addition that I can get out the rear 2nd level window and see the 3rd level flat roof using a step ladder. For flat roofs that I can't see at all or get to with the extension ladder, I simply note that is it past the safe access of a 27' ladder and recommend consulting a qualified roofer to certify the remaining life. Most roofers around here carry ladders much longer than my 27' extension ladder and if they do put a ladder onto a roof to get higher, it is up to them to repair it. Also, if the ground, ladder, or roof is wet, I do not go on the ladder. I do a visual inspection from the ground and note such in the report. Many inspectors in my area either carry no ladder or use one of those Little Giants... no idea how they get to 2nd level flat roofs. I assume they do it from the ground with visual aid.