msteger

I don't make that recommendation to my clients, and I do note in the report that I do NOT test the valve and mention that doing so can often cause it to leak, like the post above mentioned.

Mike, The home had no soffit vents (only gable vents and the ridge vent that terminated about a foot or so from the top of the chimney), so in certain circumstances, who knows if smoke or exhaust fumes could find their way into the home. I did also report on the potential issue with chimney drafting.

To answer a few of the above questions - The home had 2 wood burning fireplaces (living room and basement) and an oil fired boiler (for a total of 3 flues). The middle flue was also cracked vertically on the side facing the camera (look closely at the photo). I explained the lack of proper chimney height to the buyer and recommended full evaluation and level 2 clean/service by a qualified chimney professional. I also noted the flashing that needed to be repaired. The chimney is original. The sellers were original owners and claim to not have changed anything regarding the chimney. The home was built around 1948. As noted in the original post, there is indeed a ridge vent adjacent to the chimney, and only maybe 2' from the top of the closest flue. As I explained to the buyer, the 10-3-2 rule essentually says that the chimney must pass through the roof at least 3' (on the high roof side) and must be at least 2' higher than anything 10' away from the flues. Did I explain this correctly? I explained to the client that the 10-3-2 rule may not have existed in 1948 (and may not have until recently in many areas since I am in PA), yet should be addressed for safety reasons. Some of these safety reasons pertained to fireplace/boiler exhaust being able to re-enter the home through the adjacent ridge vent, as well as potential drafting issues.

Ran across this chimney yesterday. The top of the flues (3) were only 2"~4" above the adjacent ridge vent. I discussed the 10-2-3 rule with the client. A little short, huh? Image Insert: 44.33 KB

The basement was not insulated and is mostly finished. The only place I could see the HVAC ducts was in the utility area (water heater, furnace, electrical panel, laundry) of the basement. The metal flexible ducts were approx. 4" diameter and did not appear to be any stronger than what is used for clothes dryers. The basement (since it is heated) is conditioned. Some of the ducting hung down enough to bang me in the head, so it wasn't fully supported either. The installation looked very 'hoakey' and there were many other issues in the home, so it appeared this was also a non-professional installation. I had never seen this type of plain metal flexible ducting before until this one. I called it out for professional evaluation and clean/service the furnace since the adjacent furnace apparently hadn't been serviced in the late 1980s.

Looks like a bad carpenter. Call it out for review/repair.

I ran into this the other day.. Saw a 1960's style furnace with about half of the house (visible in the basement) supplied with metal flexible ductwork, the same stuff used for venting clothes dryers. Never saw this material used for this application before and called it out as non-typical installation. Plus, the ducting in the basement wasn't insulation anyway, so another reason to replace it with the proper materials. Ran the furnace and these suckers got pretty darn hot! Anyone else out there seen this stuff for HVAC supply duct work?

I contacted a few name brand manufacturers and they recommended using the Carrier test parameters.. cool mode no lower than 55 degs and no heat mode above 65 degs. I may simply stick to the 62 degree rule of thumb for both for simplicity and make sure I clearly state in the report if I tested the heat or cool mode and why/why not.

I vote stainless.

Ditto.. I would consider the porch to be exterior, so right there, it should be GFCI protected. Since these things only cost $7~$10, put 'em in.

Interesting discussion..please post what your contacts say, Terry. I generally use 62 degs for running heat pumps in cool/heat mode, but I do run emergency heat above 62.

The AHJ of full of it. NEC simply says the bedroom circuits have to be AFCI protected, not that each has to have separate AFCIs. Same idea with GFCIs.. having GFCI protected receptacles is different than having GFCI receptacles in each of the areas code requires. Heck, in my area, most builders don't connect the bedroom hardwires smokies onto the AFCI circuits.

That stuff is not available anymore.. that's 10 years ago.

When reporting window issues, keep in mind that a small child may need to open one in time of emergency. If windows are at all difficult to open or don't stay in position, I always report on them for safety reasons and explain to the client that a window may be the only means of escape in case of fire, for example, and repairs are needed.

I guess when you are using the toilet in the sitting position, that the bathtub acts like an ottoman and you put your legs up and relax?

I always run dishwashers through a complete cycle, so the thing is done and dry by the time I leave. I don't often run into leaky dishwashers, although I ran into 3 in one week last month. That was weird. From your description, John, it appears the appliance failed the test, yet since you already 'acknowledged' your liability to the client, they won't forget that and you are probably stuck with a repair bill. One time on a new build I was checking proper reversing mechanism function on the auto garage door opener and when it was suppose to reverse, the darn thing buckled like crazy at the top. Builder, buyer's agent, buyer, and I were all witnesses. When it happened, I broke the silence and replied "well, it failed the test." The builder repaired the door and opener after the inspection.

No, there is not a fire-resistant material to the roof in the attic above the garage. Often just a compressed paper-like building material or foil backed foam board. I believe most building codes required at least 1/2" drywall for firewall protection on garage ceilings if not a living space, and 3/4' min drywall if there is a living space above the garage.

Sorry I asked this question again.. from Jim's posting, I asked this two weeks ago and forgot I did.

I too would call it out..

I see pulldown ladders in attached garages all of the time in my neck of the woods (south central PA). I call these out since they void the garage's firewall rating since the ladders are a thin piece of plywood. All you need is an overheated car to start a fire and whoooosh....the fire spreads in a few seconds to the above garage attic and into the home. It doesn't appear that building inspectors (new homes) call this out or the actual ladder manufacturer's include install instructions stating that these should NOT be installed in garages due to the potential firewall issue. I would guess that installing a proper fire-rated box over the pulldown ladder opening will 'reclaim' the firewall, yet who the heck is going to do that and have to remove it each time to pull the ladder down. Some other local inspectors do not call these out for some reason...Am I the only one calling this issue out in attached garages? Discussion..?

There is a company called Fog Busters that is supposed to be able to fix double pane windows that have lost their vapor seal, yet I don't know if it really works. I've received their literature in the mail. Anyone had any experience with them?

I often see CSST (Corregated Stainless Steel Tubing) into fireplaces and, more rarely, into gas furnaces. I've talked to product engineers at some of the major CSST manufacturers (Tracpipe, Diamondback, etc.) and each recommends not installing CSST into furnaces and has fireplaces. Each recommends black steel or rigid copper, for example, however using a PVC sleeve or rubber grommet will also help prevent damage to the pipe. I have commonly found abraided CSST where it enters gas fireplaces due to the sharp metal opening of the chassis. I always call it out. The issue is that the local code enforcement guys do NOT call this out as an issue in new construction or new gas fireplace installs. Is it standard industry practice to call CSST out when it enters gas fireplaces, furnaces, etc.? Hopefully, someday the fuel gas and plumbing codes will catch up with this newer product.

Good info, but anyone have something similar for boilers?

I would have also guessed it was formerly a 2 unit of some sort (both residentials or one commercial space and one residential space) by the sight of 2 old meter bases. I don't often see such large fuses boxes anymore.. by now, most people would have updated to more modern panels. Since you found some issues, I'd would also call it out for electrician's review.

Nice info, Richard. I saved the link for later reference. Now, if we could just find a date code decipher tool to use when we see these old furnaces and boilers, that would be nice too.