msteger

Ditto. I do the exact same.

I am an electrical engineer and K&T wiring is meant to be air cooled. As we all know, putting insulation around it can raise its temp and possibly allow a fire. I know State Farm doesn't allow any active K&T, but that is the only one I've heard that definitely doesn't allow it.

They also help keep fire depts in business.

Wow.. whomever did that electrical work needs to be put away. Definitely non-professional work needing attention by a professional. FYI...I typically call them wire bushings or clamps. A qualified electrician will know what you mean when you call the lack of them out.

After listening to the comments and opinions (worth what I paid) of many others I believe they are over-valued. This is what I use and may have stolen it from others. "This home has Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter breakers protecting the bedroom wiring. An arc-fault circuit interrupter is a device intended to provide protection from the effects of arc faults by recognizing characteristics unique to arcing and by functioning to de-energize the circuit when an arc fault is detected. All branch circuits that supply 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacle outlets installed in dwelling unit bedrooms shall be protected by an arc-fault circuit interrupters. This requirement became effective November 1, 2002 as a portion of the National Electrical Code. Most of our localities have yet to enforce this requirement. These breakers were tested by operating the test button on the breaker. I did confirm all receptacles and light fixtures that are required to be protected were de-energized while the AFCI breaker was tripped." (worth what you are paying) Pardon my saying so, but that's incomprehensible InspectorSpeak. Way too many words, way too much jargon. All that talk about phase and amperes and de-energizing and such. You might want to try something like this: The bedroom circuits are protected by Arc Fault Circuit Interruptors (AFCIs), which are designed to prevent arcing (sparks) that could cause a fire. Couple years back, when I was still inspecting houses for sale, I took the advice of an electrical guru, and didn't test the AFCIs. I just confirmed their presence. The only meaningful test for an AFCI would require an arc fault. WJ I only trip AFCIs in vacant homes and then go and check to see if all bedroom lighting, smokies, and receptacles are now out. I know this isn't a functionality test, but rather to see what is connected to these devices. I still sometimes see hardwired bedroom smokies still powered after the AFCI is tripped. I explain to the client what the devices are for and when there were generally required in most areas, although this varies depending upon where the home is located.

Yep, just looks like a knot in the wood. I wouldn't worry about it.

Depending upon the type of shingle installed, the power ventilator may have voided the shingle warranty. I recommend against them and recommend instead using ridge and soffit venting. Power ventilators and other types (other than ridge/soffit) can allow for hot spots and can prevent a uniform airflow up under the roof.

I'd note the cracked mortar but also tell the client that is not uncommon. I recommend a level 2 inspection by a CSIA certified professional on every chimney I see (unless its brand new). I explain to the client what the level 2 inspection will accomplish and why I recommend it. I'd also recommend a flue cover, if not already there.

I would guess 12/12 and I wouldn't walk it. I'd use binoculars from the ground and maybe use a ladder at the rear flatter roof. I'm not a circus act; if it looks like its unsafe, I don't chance it. I don't get paid enough to risk my life like that.

I don't try to figure out why someone did something when I see really odd things.. or else I may drive myself crazy.

My thoughts exactly.

Now, if we could just get the bills currently sitting in the PA Senate and PA House out of committee and up to a vote.

I saw one of these at a recent home show. It indeed seemed pretty interesting.

Sounds weird to me, then again, we each see some really weird stuff..

Thanks Eric. I've known some local electricians say that if the two metal enclosures are connected with metal conduit (like in my example of two adjacent panels a few inches apart) that it is really one enclosure and the 2nd really isn't considered a subpanel. I've still be calling these out, but was curious to know what you guys think in this instance. Sounds like I'm doing it correctly. Thanks again.

Thanks Eric. I've known some local electricians say that if the two metal enclosures are connected with metal conduit (like in my example of two adjacent panels a few inches apart) that it is really one enclosure and the 2nd really isn't considered a subpanel. I've still be calling these out, but was curious to know what you guys think in this instance. Sounds like I'm doing it correctly. Thanks again.

Based on memory the requirement for a chimney is the 10-2-3 rule. For a B vent, there is no 10-2-3 rule. The requirement is based on the slope of the roof (min. 12"). The 2' above the roof line within 10' applies when there is a sidewall within 8' horizontal feet of a sidewall. I am still not fully convinced that the B vent needs to be extended..... I am curious as to why there is a requirement to go 2' above any point within 8' horizontally of a sidewall, when there is only a 12" requirement elsewhhere. The only thing I can think of is that there would be a chance of venting back through an eave vent or window?? Anyone have an idea or answer? Is the chimney 2' taller than anything within 10' of it? Doesn't look like there is a 24" difference b/w that and the metal vent next to it.

Thanks.

A few weeks ago I found that the seller had added a full bathroom in the corner of the basement basement. In this basement corner is where the electrical panel is also located. Technically, the panel was in a closed off section (approx. 6' x 6') of the bathroom, but technically, I believed that the panel should not be there (or better yet, the bathroom should not have been added there) since the source air to the panel is from the full bathroom. An obvious source of moist air. Did I make the right call?

If it's what I think it is, it will go up like a newspaper when ignited. I would not classify it as fire rated unless it says it is.

Heck, today I had a gas fireplace with no gas valve in the same room. You'd have to run to the basement and find a ladder to reach the gas valve in the ceiling. Needless to say, I called it out and recommended having a valve installed at the appliance.

Definitely an issue. Violates the 10-2-3 rule.

Trane seems to use confusing date codes as well.

I call out incorrectly wired subpanels all the time. Some local electricians say neutrals can be bonded to the equipment grounds in subpanels if a metal conduit connects the two panels. I continue to call these out. What do you guys say about this specific example?

No, that is the main panel for my house. So if I run an electrical wire to the panel, where does the neutral wire and ground wire go to? From what I read, the ground wire goes to the bare copper wire side (blue circle) and the neutral wire goes to the neutral bar (green circle). But from the existing wiring, it seems it doesn't really mater where the neutal wire goes to? thanks hausdok and ghentjr for point it out that panel is a fire trap. Image Insert: 72.34 KB The questions you are asking strongly indicate that you should not be doing any electrical work. Call a licensed electrician to do the work.