msteger

Good point, Brandon. I also mentioned that to my client since it was evident that the basement was finished by the home owner, and I had no idea if the gas fireplace was installed by the home owner or a qualified professional. From other things I found in the basement, I suspected the home owner is probably a DYI or HGTV watching person who doesn't know how to properly do things. hi. For CYA reasons, I recommended having the unit thoroughly inspected by a qualified fireplace professional for proper operation and installation. The pilot was not lit, so I couldn't even turn the fireplace on. No idea if the vinyl fence was installed before or after the fireplace install. Either way, common sense didn't win in this one.

Same for here in PA, although I don't see that many underground fuel oil tanks. Most are in basements or garages.

I agree and recommended a licensed plumber be consulted for repair, but isn't what I described called a 'wet vent' and permitted in some areas?

Thanks Jim.

This morning's inspection led me to find a basement bathroom that was recently (within the past few years) added with a sewage ejector pump (aka effluent pump) installed and then two PVC (approx. 3" dia.) pipes coming out vertically out of the pump cover, then running approx. 2' horizontally into the main sewer line (just above the cleanout). Both PVC pipes made the connection to the main sewer line with rubber (flexible) Y's aiming down (similar to sanitary Y's). I believe this would be called a "wet vent". I don't ever recall seeing a vent like this. Normally, one pipe connects directly into the sewer and another one disappears into the ceiling (to connect to the main stack) or runs directly outside. Thoughts?

What is the minimum required clearance for metal vents for gas log fireplaces? One I ran into this morning was just about touching a vinyl fence. I seem to recall 12" minimum, but is that right? See photo below. Thanks. Image Insert: 26.82 KB

i ditto what Kurt says. There isn't much info on the web (or elsewhere) available like what we find for FPE equipment, but I still tell my clients these have had a bad history of issues, are old by now, and recommend replacing them.

I don't have my IRC book handy, but also aren't these not permitted in kitchens due to the 'wet area' issue?

Gotcha Jim. I found no amendments on the PA Dept. of Labor/Industry website that pertains to the IRC in PA and LP.

What sort of clearance to combustibles existed from what you can tell? I can't imagine enough clearance exists above this area. I would have done double wall (B) the entire length. What's that 'expandable foam' stuff on the connector pipe? Looks weird to me.

Is it me, or does it look like the seams run up the field and not across it? In the 2nd photo, are we looking down the slope? Definitely looks like a roof install that needs to be called out.

PA uses 2006 IRC.

One post above says "IRC FG 401.2 and UMC 304.6 (as listed in Code Check HVAC, 2002 edition, page 19) state that: propane appliance not to be located in pit or Basement." Another post says "The IRC doesn't prohibit propane appliances in pits or basements. " Seems to be contradictory to me. I just want to be sure, so when I see my 1st LP appliance in a basement, I'll know what is permitted. I haven't seen one in over 6 years of inspecting.

OK, so what is answer? Are LP appliances permitted in basements? Some of the postings here seem to contradict each other. If they are permitted, then a fresh air vent (drain) in the basement floor is required. Never saw on LP appliance in a basement around here. Just curious what the final verdict is (and I know it also depends on what the AHJ says, too) .

My 1st guess would have been 1979 since I see "M9 79...", but I don't think they were using EnergyGuide stickers then. What is the manufacturer?

In the electrical distribution industry (I am an electrical engineer), the components that supply power (what we see breakers connected to) would typically be called 'busbars'. The 'bars' that we see routinely neutral and grounding wires connected to are 'terminal bars'. These terms seem to be used interchangably in the home inspection industry, but they are not really interchangeable. Using the proper terms is best. The panel in the OP definitely looks like it has some issues and was put in by drunk cousin Ned. Definitely call it out for review and repair/replacement by a licensed and qualified electrician.

I believe the same rule (regarding minimum receptacle per a certain distance of counter space) doesn't apply for bathrooms, but we'll see if someone else can confirm that. There should be GFCI protected receptacles in bathrooms however within 3' of the sink(s).

Forgive me, but I don't understand your point, Tom. Are you saying that stack vents on a mobile home don't need to be the normal ~12" high?

I see a dozen or so mobile and manufactured homes per year, but I've never seen one with a flat roof or EPDM (or other membrane, for that matter) installed. All have had asphalt shingles installed. None have had attics either, but simply 'cathedral' ceilings with minimal ventilation from soffit to ridge b/w ceiling and sheathing. Many of the mobile and manufactured homes I run across also have very short plumbing stack vents.. we're talking about 3~5" high that I call out all of the time.

Thanks Jim.

Why would a home inspector need a freon cert?

It was definitely built-up/modified bitumen, but I did notice a perimeter piece installed, not common for what I see with most exposed (uncoated) bitumen. This sort of perimeter piece is what we normally see on rubber membrane roofs.

Would installing foil tape over the filter opening be an acceptable fix?

It looked to me that the cracks were only in the sealant, although its tough to tell just be looking. By the joint seams, it seemed to be a modified bitumen roof, not a hot tar roof.

I'd agree with you all.. definitely looks like asbestos. Put a little ballpark mustard on it and see it if tastes like asbestos. Yum.