msteger

I've had the basic Toro pressure and volume unit for over 6 years and have had to replace the volume portion once. I have used it probably 20 times total. It is nice to be able to document a measurement for comparison when you observe an issue (low pressure or low flow), so that I why I carry this tool still.

Cary, thanks for the feedback. Yep, I am talking about modified bitumen. So, recommending at least touchup where cracks are visible isn't really needed? If the silver coating has no waterproofing properties, then I would think if a large number of cracks are visible, leakage is more common/possible. How many times can this sealant be applied over itself? In other words, is there a limit to when replacing the roof is needed instead of just applying another coating? Thanks, Matt

A question for you roofing guys: I often run across flat rolled asphalt roofs that have been coated with a silver-ish sealant. Often times, the sealant is cracking in places. At what point in the 'cracking process' would it be prudent to recommend recoating the roof? Typically, when I see the cracking, I note it and recommend recoating at least the cracked areas (if only some areas show this wear). Also, is there a limit to how many times a roof of this sort can be recoated? Sometimes I can tell several layers of this sealant have been applied. At which point, for this type of roof that has been repeated recoated, should the entire roof be replaced? See the attached photo. Up to this point, I've made pretty conservative recommendations for CYA. Just curious if I am making the right recommendations. Thanks. Image Insert: 104.14 KB

Yep, I see those type of adjustable shower heads from time to time and I test it from OFF all the way to the other end to make sure it works. I also check to make sure the stem is secure in the wall.

Thanks. Found the info in Code Check Complete (pp. 138 and 167).

Good info, although the info it provides is wrong for my Carrier furnace. Mine was manufactured 2 years after the end of the data window the site provides.

I always see compressors either sitting on a pad or wooden platform. I don't recall ever seeing one without one, although I have seen ones that aren't level and need attention.

Yeah, every so often I get calls for rentals that, from the description, I quote almost double the price just so the buyer won't call me back.

Vent terminating over the rim of what sink? I'm lost. The shower floor was only maybe 3~4" above the bathroom floor. This shower was an add-on approx. 20~30 years ago. Under the shower area was concrete slab, so the drain pipe runs approx. 15~20 feet into the basement and then into the enclosed pump. The washing machine's drain line, I believe, connects in the wall to this same drain line. I recommended having the PVC vent extended and terminated outside. Question - in what circumstances can a Studor vent be used in this situation, if any?

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This afternoon, I saw an effluent pump for a shower and laundry in the basement that was pumped into the septic system. A PVC vent pipe stuck out the top approx 3' with a 90° elbow. It did not vent outside and had no Studer vent. This looked wrong. Is this permitted? Thank, Matt

The 2" spacing is required for B vents (double walled) and masonry chimneys.

Apparently only a few inspectors call this out in my area, me being one of them. Astonishes me that someone (maybe a builder) puts this stuff in and it passes local code.

Definitely an issue to be called out, even if the home is 100 years old.

Looks like a situation where the guy who put the dryer vent in didn't look outside before he drilled the hole.

I personally use a Fuji (can't remember the model right now) handheld with a 4x optical zoom and 8 megapixel resolution. Takes awesome pics and allows extra digital zoom for close-up shots of chimneys, etc. Since its small, its not bulky and it goes everywhere I go.

I routinely see wooden pulldown garage ladders and call'em out every time. I do note that building codes vary, but recommend replace or retrofit to conform to modern standards for safety reasons. If I see particle board or wafer board on the walls, and can't see drywall behind it, I also call it out. Heck, I do split level homes often (or other homes w/ an integral garage) and either just see insulation or the subflooring above.

I personally don't operate the T&P valve for liability reasons.

I've only seen copper used for these jumpers. I've never seen or heard of that yoke.

I found the official documentation for this. York/Unitary did indeed change this as of October 2004. See the attached file for info. Download Attachment: York-Unitary date code nomenclature.pdf 252.73 KB

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You say the master bath has a sink and shower. I assume the hot water at all fixtures in the master bathroom were opened for a few minutes? Is the water pressure similar on the hot side compared to the cold side? Obviously, if there was little to no pressure on the hot side of the sink and shower, I'd say a valve was closed. If you're getting no hot water and full pressure on the hot side, but 'room temp' (not cold) on the hot side of the sink and shower, I'd be a little puzzled. If it was only the shower, I'd guess a faulty mixing valve at the shower control, but it seems to also be the sink so I don't know. I'd say a plumber is the next logical move to figure out what's going on.

See the "Modern Marvels" episode on Electricity to learn about the Edison vs. Tesla issue. The show is occasionally on Discovery, History Channel and History Channel Int'l.

Sorry.. I forgot we were talking about water pipes now. Around here most areas require a ground wire be connected to the water service pipe for the secondary ground (such as bonding across the water meter). Some, however, don't require it here.

Due to what you are seeing, I would address any moisture issues in the crawl space. I would also recommend having a licensed electrician evaluate the exposed ground wires to determine if they have been compromised by the sulfur issue.