msteger

Thanks for sharing your story with us and keeping us updated. Its always fun watching contractors from one discipline screw up a system of another discipline.

What I do is include just the basic website link (http://www.csia.org) and say something like, "For additional information on chimney maintenance, please visit the CSIA website at http://www.csia.org". I typically don't put a fuller website address in case it changes down the road plus it can get rather lengthy. As Brandon says, we have no control over the website content and URL changes, but at least pointing the client in the proper direction is smart and appreciated by the client.

And properly seal all pipe and wire penetrations through the drywall with an approved material, like fire caulk.

Yep, lots of digital sub-channels that the cable and satellite companies don't provide. Most people probably aren't even aware of them.

From that verbiage, Jim, I would say that the rules for receptacles and switches (for lights or fans) are actually fairly similar. Neither should be installed within a shower/bathtub compartment. By the switches "installed as part of a listed tub or shower assembly", is that referring to a switch for a jetted tub, for example?

Sargent, thanks for your service and get back home soon and safely.

Thanks.

Just curious.. what is that vent for at the bottom of the 3rd picture?

I always use the 1/150 and 1/300 rules and think about uniform air flow from the soffits up to the ridge. I don't like gable vents, pan vents, or power fans as these can be counter-productive and may, in some circumstances, pull in warm air at the ridge, for example. I know Certainteed requires gable vents, pan vents, or power fans be removed, if ridge/soffit venting is added on a reroof (taken directly from their Master Shingle Applicator book). The other top manufacturers (Tamko, Owens Corning, GAF) highly recommend the same. I think IRC recommends soffits but doesn't require it. I would press the builder for soffit vents, and if you need to, use the shingle manufacturer's instructions and warranty paperwork to back you up.

Great analysis of his 'club', Mike. Couldn't have said it better myself. From what I've heard from several people, the individual in question has still never paid his fines and is still 'on the run' from the PA DEP claiming he has done nothing wrong. What a joke. From documents I have obtained (from very reliable sources), this individual does still live in CO. Radon mitigation fans can only be installed in attics or outside the home. They can not be installed in basements, inside wall cavities, etc. Not sure what the fan in question is, but if it is for a radon mitigation system, it is very wrong. Several local people putting themselves off as "radon remediators" (and are anything but) have been caught by the PA DEP, but skipped town before anything could be done. Too bad...

Ditto to what Bain was taught.. to ensure the flue gases can't escape the flue connector into the basement. This is what I was always taught, too. Which one is correct?

I wonder what the person who installed that receptacle there was thinking... apparently nothing. That's the problem. Along the same lines, I often find light switches within the shower/bathtub compartment as well. I believe the rules for light switches varies from the receptacle rule, but I still recommend relocating switches in this situation.

Ok, so let me see if I follow you correctly. We're talking about either cutting shingles along a line parallel to the valley versus interweaving shingles from one field into shingles of another field at the valley. Is this correct? For some reason, I think I am missing something. You are saying in the top photo from the book that the "cut shingles back 2..." and "valley center line" arrow are the reversed ones? Looking at the corner of the fascia below it, I agree. What are we considering (forget the drawing in the Certainteed book) on a typical gable roof with a dormer window sticking out towards the north. The main gable roof who's fields face north/south. The fields of the dormer roof face east/west. Take the west valley where the dormer's roof meets the main roof field. Forgive me for asking again, but, to clarify, how should the shingles in this valley be installed? You say to not worry about which field of roofing has the larger field and thus, probably, has the higher water shed. Am I making you feel as though you are hitting your head on the wall? Sorry..

Sounds like the very definition of a lawyer.

As long as the system is regularly serviced by a qualified HVAC contractor and it was heating the home up at the time of your inspection and had no issues with short cycling, venting, etc. were noted, I would list the unit as functional. I would also indicate to the client, however, that it is beyond its designed life (approx. 20 years) and a new higher efficiency model would more than pay for itself in time with a programmable thermostat.

..and I probably wouldn't be playing with that wrapping (like the hand in that top picture onto the little guy's head). I would also report that material in the photo as "suspected of containing asbestos". The only real way to know is have it tested.

We have enough liability in this line of work (just inspecting the home). We don't need to take on more liability by taking water heaters apart and fiddling with the insides.. just my opinion. Run water at the faucet and make sure HOT and COLD are coming from the proper sides of the faucet. When running hot, make sure it gets hot, but don't stick your hand in scalding water (unless you really want to). If the water gets hot when the spigot indicates HOT water, then I'd simply write it up as 'the water heater is functional'.

D'oh! I have been starting most of my report comments with... "It's a little known fact that.. "

John, I've only run across a home completed wired with Al once in over 6 years. I noted this condition in the report and put a blurb about the potential risks of AL wiring. The selling agent freaked out saying he'd never heard of Aluminum wiring being a problem and has not referred me since (about 4 years ago). I included a link to the CPSC brochure about Al wiring hazards for the client and agent to see. Incidentally, I did find several branch circuits with undersized wiring compared to the overcurrent protection. I recommended having a licensed electrician in to evaluate the electrical system (due to the Al wiring AND the overcurrent protection issues) since I couldn't tell if any of the components (such as switches and receptacles) were rated for AL.

OK, educate me here. So, for closed valleys, Certainteed really wants the field with the more surface area (draining more water) to extend past the valley and terminate into the field with the lesser water drainage. Correct? In their diagram, the larger field of roof (more water drainage) should be the portion on the left and smaller field on the right?

I have thought about doing these, but when asking other inspectors who have been certified (by Energy Tune-Up) to do these, they get very little or no business from this service. Sounds like a service that would be in high demand, but it seems people just don't want to pay for the extra service. Of course, it all depends upon how it is marketed. Not fully sure how the people I have talked to about energy audits marketed the service, however. I started doing mold testing in 2003 or 2004 and thought it was be a good money maker. After 12 months, I came to realize that taking the ESA classes, getting mold insurance, getting certified, and buying the equipment was not all that it was cracked up to be. I am sort of reluctant to get into Energy Audits for this reason.

Based upon your info, I would have to guess the furnace is from the mid to late 1960s and is original to the home. BTW..Is it me or are your photos rather blurry? I had to blink a few times thinking my contacts were getting old.

Very interesting report found at that link.. No mention of FPE breaker panels, however.

The above pictured valley is how we typically see them around here. As long as there is no leakage or staining noted in the attic, I would call it functional. As the others day, any time that you can not access the attic and see the underside of the roof, make sure you document that in your report.

Heat Pump is a 2 ton unit built in Sept. 2002. I would agree furnace is probably original to the home.