msteger

My idea? Call a qualified HVAC technician for evaluation & repair.

When warm enough to run the A/C, I turn that on (or down, if already running) when I get to the home. I want the outside unit to be running when I do the home's exterior (which is where I start my home inspections). I check the tag for Age, BTU, current ratings, line insulation, etc. and of course listen to it running. When I get to the inside, I am happy the home is cooling because I look cold weather and detest hot weather. I run the A/C while I inspect the attic and most of the home. While doing so, I'll take temp measurements in several rooms, especially at a supply vent very near the blower. Before I do the last rooms on the main level, I'll turn the thermostat off. Then I finish the main level and go to the basement. I'll take the cover off so I can see the indoor coil. Then, I inspect most the basement and thin get to the furnace. This would have provided approx. 20 minutes for the unit to stabilize. Then, I go turn the furnace on, watch the unit fire, check the air filter and exhaust venting, and let it run for a while. When I get to the electrical panel, I check to see what the breaker ratings are for the A/C and see that they closely match what I saw on the compressor's tag. I complete things in the basement and go check to make sure all finished rooms are getting heat. I don't remove registers or grills. Once I am confident all finished rooms are heated, I replace set the thermostat to where I found it, unless it was on in A/C. If the seller is there, I tell them to wait 15-20 mins. before turning the A/C on again. If I find no posted service records for the HVAC system (from within the past 12 months), I recommend clean/service by a qualified HVAC tech and recommend annual clean & service to the client.

What's worry with that? It's called recycling.

And Barry Stone wants us to walk on these, too, or else we're bad home inspectors.

I inspect the roof first from the ground, attic when I get in the home, and then access the roof at the end of the inspection. I've also seen damaged roofing boards, damaged trusses, etc. and when you see any of these, you are relieved that you saw it first before you stepped on it and possibly injured yourself or further damaged the roof. As far as liability, I would say its the seller's liability if an inspector gets hurt walking a roof, assuming he didn't do anything stupid. If an inspector puts his foot through a previously unknown hole/imperfection, I would think it falls under the seller's responsibility.

It's almost like taking a shower and getting power-washed in the process. At least, it will get all the dirt off your feet. Yes, I'd say anything over 80 psi is high.

I've never heard of that rule, either. When I subpanels off 200 Amp mains, the subpanels are normally either 100 Amp or 60 Amp rated.

Funny.. I saw a very similar install as you describe on Tuesday. The home owner closed off the main level central return (stuck a piece of drywall behind the return) and opened a hole in the basement finished wall to make the only return for the oil fired furnace in the basement right behind a wood burning stove. I called it out since the only return air is adjacent to combustion of another appliance. The wood stove and oil fired furnace also shared a single flue chimney.

That is, unless its an FPE breaker. Then, who the heck knows.

YES, that's the stuff. I guess it really is fiberglass. The insulation contractor finally called me back today and confirmed it. He called it "Insul-Safe". Just wanted to be sure since it didn't feel like fiberglass.

At this morning's inspection, I ran across a white cotton-like loose fill or blown in insulation that was put in a few years ago. It isn't itchy like loose fill fiberglass but appears to be a bit lighter-weight and easier to move around. I asked the seller about it since it was installed 2 years back and the paperwork he had just said R-30 loose fill and it was 10" thick, appearing to be R-3 per inch. The paperwork didn't go into specifics about what type of insulation it was. Does anyone know what this stuff really is and what it is called and the actual R-value? I did a Google search for 'cotton insulation' and similar but didn't find what I was looking for. Thanks.

I agree. I only recommend GFCI's currently where missing to today's GFCI standard.

I went to Home Depot and bought 12" of each size. I took a measurement of each size's diameter and saved it in my computer. If ever in doubt, measure the wire in question with a little plastic ruler and check your data table. Works well.

I see stuff like this all the time. It's always fun when the "Electrical System" portion of the report is over 2 pages. When you see the first one, you know you'll see more in the home and your hand will be sore from writing.

Thanks guys. I found a pictorial on pg. 79 of Code Check Complete.

WHY ARE YOU SCREAMING?!?

I see sheet metal screws from time to time in breaker panels. One time, a seller was following me and the seller around and being getting in our way, questioning everything I was telling my client, etc. We get to the breaker panel and I note sheet metal screws. I tell the client about the possible shock hazard of using these screws. The seller says that is not a problem and it's been that way for 10 years. I ask if he wants to put the panel cover back on with those screws and he said "sure, no problem". He puts the 3rd screw in and gets shocked and turns around and looks at us. The client and I are standing about 5 feet away and just about started laughing. 'Nuf said.

Tom, what do they mean by 'trap seal'? The height of pipes entering or exiting the trap? If so, is the measurement taken from the bottom of the trap?

Yeah, you are right.. some of these fittings are going the wrong way. Funny... I looked at it and said to myself 'what the hell?' and that is not even looking at the direction of some of the fittings. The seller was a self proclaimed "general contractor" (that about says it all, alot of the time, eh?) and I found all sorts of other plumbing and electrical issues in the home, including a wood stove that had wood paneled walls right next to it that were red hot to the touch and insulation installed over knob and tube wiring.

I ran into this drain today under a bathroom sink. I would imagine problems down the road, such as early deterioration of the pipe due to prolonged water presence in the trap and horizontal arm plus the level the water has to reach downstream from the trap. Suggestions? Click to Enlarge 42.48 KB

Thanks guys.

John, did the pipe say "PB2110" on it anywhere? I can't say I've ever seen black PB, only grey in these parts.

Jim: Is this ok because it was fed with 3 conductor (no ground) cable?

I'd like to get one too, Chris, when the prices come down further. I think IR can be an invaluable tool.

Interesting.. first time I've ever see anything like this. If they've been in home's I've inspected in the past, they've always been out of view or under the slab. Thanks for the info, guys.