msteger

I have long heard the terms 'dry vent' and 'wet vent' pertaining to venting systems for plumbing. It appears that a wet vent is simply a dry vent that also has drain water running in it (such as the typical PVC DWV system in the home above the highest drain connection (sink, tub, etc.) in the home). How does one tell the different b/w the two? I run across this often with ejector/effluent pumps in basements with dual PVC vertical drain pipes both connecting into the main sewer line (one is a drain and one is a vent). Maybe I just need a good summary of these two terms.

I always open all service panels and fuse boxes that I can reach and open. Isn't that what the standards tell us to do? When there was ones that I can't access (rusted screws, blocked by furniture, etc.), I take a picture (for my own records) and report that the panel/box wasn't accessible, why, and that a licensed electrician be consulted to make repairs and fully inspect what I couldn't inspect. I never want to assume anything is correct or safe. I don't need the lawsuit or phone call down the road from a PO'd client.

When I do "roof-only" inspections, I look at the exterior surface, flashing, sheathing/decking, attic ventilation, upper level ceiling, etc. I like to follow the same standards for a roof only inspection that I would follow for inspecting the roof during a full home inspection. The woman who wanted you to look only at the shingles tells you a lot.

Good article. It's saved in my archives.

Good info about tankless units. I've seen maybe 4 or 5 in the field and all were either Rinnai or Rheem. Each had PVC vents. Please keep us posted on your opinions of this unit as you use it more. My gas tank unit is 10 years old, so I know I am within the 8~12 year window now. I've heard good and bad things about tankless ones, so I don't know if I'd go the tankless route when it comes time to replace my unit. 2.5 bathrooms but just me and my wife.. no kids. For our use, a tankless unit may really save us some $$$. I've heard that install costs can run $2,000+ (including install of larger gas line) and that payback may not happen for 10 years or more.

This is permitted in Wisconsin?

Why is this in the Attic forum?

I've always used the same range.. 14 ~ 22 degs F unless it's only, say, 62~70 outside then, it may be a little lower. Would you guys only recommend checking this geothermal unit in one mode (heating or cooling based upon the season) like we do for air source units?

I wasn't aware that PB was ever used as service pipe into the home...or was it?

I see that corrugated drain pipe installed all of the time. I can't believe the kind of crap you can buy at a big box store. I see it so much that I have a default comment especially for it now in my inspection software.

I opened up a bedroom closet once and found a teenage boy in his underwear looking frightened. Apparently, the half naked teenage girl in the bed decided not to tell me or the buyers that she was having an afternoon delight and that I shouldn't be surprised when I opened up her closet to inspect its contents.. Apparently, the girls parents didn't tell her that the new buyer and the inspector were coming that day and she didn't answer the door, so we didn't think anyone was home. That was a pretty interesting inspection.

Yep, I would say a signal amp with a few heat sinks.

That would have looked a lot nicer cosmetically and worked better functionally if they had just installed the proper ridge vent and soffit vents when they replaced the roof.

Correct, the NEC allows GFCI receptacles on ungrounded (2 wire) branch circuits but the "No Equipment Ground" sticker that comes with the GFCI is supposed to be installed on the face of the receptacle or cover plate. This tells the user that the receptacle isn't grounded although it looks like a grounded receptacle. A GFCI doesn't need to be grounded to properly function as its monitoring the current flow in the neutral and hot wires.

I'd call it an unprofessional installation and recommend consulting a qualified roofer for proper repair (replacement).

In 8 years, I have personally only ever inspected 1 home that had no 'issues'. It was a 3 year old condo that the owner was very meticulous about. I would say that every home has some issues (whether they be basic maintenance or more serious). A Realtor saying that the inspector was there "the full 2 hours" for a 2,400 sq ft house would make me laugh. Sounds like that Realtor thinks a full home inspection takes 2 hours, at least as a routine for the 'Realtor's Inspector'. I agree that some 1,800 sq ft homes are easy to inspect and don't take that long, whereas other 1,800 sq ft homes can easily take maybe 4 hours to inspect. Regarding the initial post, I would certainly tell my friends what I thought if I found issues. If it quacks like a duck...

Too bad the home owner of this afternoon's inspection didn't know about insulation and knob and tube wiring. I found about 7" of insulation covering active knob and tube. I didn't see the knob and tube until I dug down a little since I knew the home was built b/w 1913 and 1929 and had to have K&T originally. It was actually a Sears house with a poured concrete foundation. I thought it was kind of cool that you could order a house from the Sears catalog and they'd ship you everything in two or three railcars. You'd go pick up the stuff and build your home. Of course, that was prior to building codes.

In my area, I'd call out 120 degs or more in the attic, unless it was 95 degs outside. If I measured that, I'd expect to see blocked soffits or a problem with the ridge venting or something. I once measured a 145 deg attic.

I once inspected a home like that but the garage exterior lights only came on when the home owner made cinnamon toast. It if was simply buttered toast, no lights.

Thanks.

Rheem gas fired furnace - Model 3204-100 AB Serial 62H895KFN 2B 006 Can anyone tell me the age? None of the info I have for Rheem seems to fit and I can't find phone number for them. Thanks.

I see dryers (electric and gas) in laundry areas that share space with a half bathroom often. So you are saying that the code doesn't allow laundry areas to share space with bathrooms (should a gas clothes dryer be installed)?

Is it me or does it look either like a huge amount of mold on the underside of the roof (behind where the insulation is pulled away) or possibly some fire damage?

PA doesn't require CO monitors.. heck, builders here are still fighting the fire sprinkler requirement.

A lot of sellers say that when we find hazards in their home.