msteger

I run the system for at least 20 minutes (more closer to 1.5 hrs) and then take a temp measurement at a few supply registers closest to the air handler. I report whatever temp is lowest. I then take an ext. wall measurement facing the sun and report that as my ambient.

And it's a 2 ton unit.

Be careful! In PA, DEP requires radon testing on the lowest possible living level, not necessarily the lowest currently lived in level as in other states. This means that if the basement floor is concrete, you can stand upright, and you could potentially make this a 'living area' (like a place for children to play) without major work, you make your radon measurements here. If this room (where the water heater is located) is a relatively small closed-off room from a finished basement, for example, I would take my radon measurements in the finished basement area.

Interesting, I can't say I've ever seen a water heater on a wall switch.

I was thinking the same thing, Jim. Is this guy a home inspector or an electrician? If he's a home inspector, why is he making repairs in someone's electrical panel? If he's an electrician, why is he posting electrical questions here? Scary.

I think someone was pulling your leg by that suggestion.

I thought the same thing. It's like putting $12,000 into repairing a car worth $10.000. I'm sure we're not getting the whole story, but if they can prove the seller knew of these issues and didn't disclose them, they may have a case against the seller. We don't know what the inspector could see or should have seen at the time of the inspection.

IR cameras sure are a nice addition to the inspector's toolbox, but the cost is outside most of our budgets. As the technology gets cheaper, I plan to add one of these to my toolbelt to help my client and lower my liability.

I ran both geothermal systems in cool mode. A 5 ton unit cooled the basement and main level. A 2 ton unit cooled the 2nd level. I noticed only a 2 or 3 degree delta at the 2nd level and found an iced over evaporator coil in the 2 ton unit. 18 degree delta with the other unit. I ran both units in backup mode and each worked OK in that mode. The pump motor for the system was rather noisy and would annoy me if I lived there, however. It sounded like a factory motor.

This I did not know. Good info, Kyle. I didn't know it, either. Thanks. There's quite a bit of info on the web that says tinning was (also?) done to make soldering wires easier. Tinning a wire for soldering is a bit different than tin coated copper for home wiring. How so? I ask, because in the book Old Electrical Wiring written by David Shapiro (1998 McGraw-Hill), which is written entirely about old house wiring, on page 403 it says "Old splices, (those installed before, say, World War II) were done up differently-some better, a few worse. They were almost always bulkier, and they took longer to create. Splicing, or "making up joints", was done by first twisting the wires together (not necessarily clock-wise), then soldering them (underline is mine), then taping them with self-annealing rubber tape, and over that applying friction tape." It goes on to say that after that, solderless connectors became quite popular, eliminating the need for soldering. From page 406... Click to Enlarge 70.2 KB So again, what's the difference you speak of? The tinning was done for a different reason. Tinning a wire does make soldering it easier, but tin coated copper wire (as the thread originally was about) was to prevent corrosion.

This I did not know. Good info, Kyle. I didn't know it, either. Thanks. There's quite a bit of info on the web that says tinning was (also?) done to make soldering wires easier. Tinning a wire for soldering is a bit different than tin coated copper for home wiring.

Thanks Jim.

I don't believe there are any issues with FPE fuse boxes themselves, other than they are old.

OK, so determining whether to run the geothermal HP in cool or heat mode is still done using the outside temp, like just air source units? If above ~62 degs., run it in cool mode. If less than ~62 degs, run in heat mode. And, like with air source systems, if the geothermal unit is only run in cool mode, the electric or gas/LP backup can still be run. Wasn't sure if anything special had to be done from air source units, other than looking for leaks. Sounds like a plan. Thanks.

If the geothermal unit is running in cool mode, will you still test it in backup heat mode (but not regular heat mode)? I am doing a 6,000 sq ft vacant home with a dual geothermal HP system. I think there is also an LP fired boiler and holding tank for the potable water. The system must have cost a fortune. I don't know if it has a backup.. I wouldn't imagine a backup heat source is needed for a geothermal unit since its not interacting with the outside air. Would running it in cool and heat mode do damage to a geothermal unit?

So, how did you inspect it? Did you run heat AND cool? Most of us don't see geothermal systems very often, so inspecting these is a rarity.

What is the standard regarding inspecting Geothermal Heat Pumps?? Since these are not air source systems and thus not really affected by the outside air temp, can the heating AND cooling sides both be run and tested during the inspection? If so, what sort of delay time should be used b/w heat and cool? Thanks.

If a 'master electrician' is working at Home Depot, I think that says it all. I don't recall an exact height requirement either, but 5' seems reasonable.

I routinely recommend my clients check with the seller for permits whenever I can tell something has been changed or added in the not too distant past. I see finished basements all of the time, some of which appear to be missing a vapor barrier, etc. and know of several instances that home owners got into trouble because a home they just purchased didn't have a permit for a deck or basement. They found out after they moved in when they got a permit for something else and the township came and said 'wait a minute, we have no record of your finished basement'. Each time, the local township required the home owners to remove the changes (finished walls, etc.). Even though the new owners weren't the ones responsible for not getting permits (the work was done before they bought the home), they are now the owner of record. The reason many people buy the home may have been because of the large finished basement family room. I recommend this permit search to help my clients prevent a 'tragedy' down the road.

It was probably a Friday afternoon install.

Are you referring to Fig 45 (page 43) and 905.2.8.1?

I see the black gunt all the time when I run jetted tubs and in my default comment for jetted tubs, I already have a comment recommending to disinfect the jetted tub prior to usage using dishwasher detergent. I've used that comment for years and in the same comment I also note if there is an access panel for the motor/plumbing and if the motor is GFCI protected. Just seems like the right thing to do. As far as heat exchangers go, the few furnaces that I run into that you can actually see the heat exchanger, I take a look to see what I can see. I know that most of it I can't see without taking the thing apart. When I don't see service records indicating service within the past 12 months, I recommend a thorough clean/service by a qualified HVAC tech. Sometimes it does sound, even though Barry is a home inspector, that is throws fellow inspectors under the bus by some of his comments. We all know that most of the heat exchangers we run across are out of our view, and we're only seeing maybe 10%. I see alot of newer hi-efficient gas furnaces and there isn't much of the heat exchanger to see there.

John, you left out the most important detail... what did it taste like? Seriously.. I'd guess it was probably a mold/fungus and recommend further evaluation by a qualified mold professional. Did you see any stains indicating a leak into the attic? Was the bathroom vent fans emptying into the attic? Can't say I've seen anything like that, although I do sometimes see black-ish colored mold on attic sheathing often from bathroom fans venting into the attic.

The home owner probably worked at the UPS Store and stole a bunch of the packing peanuts (technical name - "dunage") from work. I'd write it up as a non-listed type of insulation that is probably not fire rated.

Is it my eyes or is the vent material in the 1st photo look a little odd?