msteger

Yep.. I noted that it looked like a home owner (or drunk Uncle Ned) did that plumbing job. I recommended having a licensed plumbing review the installation and make needed repairs. This wasn't a private waste system, but rather a public sewer. There was nothing supporting that trap. The first thing I said to myself when I saw that was, boy, don't trip over that. In 7 years, I've never seen a whole house trap..it's always something new, eh? I've inspected homes from the 1700s all the way up to the present, and never saw one until today. Are you saying that in some areas, a whole house trap is common??

Take a look at the photo - Just upstream from the sewer line's exit location in the basement (right side in photo), someone installed this contraption (two elbows and cleanouts) that goes down to the basement floor then rises back up to exit the home. I would consider this to be a trap. Behind this trap, is a concrete laundry tub. To the left is where the rest of the home's drain plumbing connects to this trap. I would expect that the location of the trap would promote clogs in the drain line. I am thinking this contraption is there because of the height of the drain from the laundry tub. Anyone else have an opinion? Click to Enlarge 39.79 KB

Sounds like the safe thing to do. Anytime I run across obvious home owner electrical work (or plumbing work, for that matter), I recommend a licensed and qualified electrician be consulted to evaluate the changes/repairs.

I can't say I've heard of that one, Brandon. I'd just run 12 AWG the entire way. Also, I think the 1/0 to 12 AWG is a rather large difference. I don't think there are split bolts rated for this conversion.

I have a question about another subpanel install I saw today. The detached garage's subpanel is fed with 3 wire (no ground) service cable. The service cable is fed from the home's main panel and protected on both sides with 100 Amp/240 Volt overload protection. The service cable was a 6 AWG aluminum. Yes, a 6 AWG AL with 100 Amp overcurrent protection. There is a separate ground rod wired into this panel. The grounding and neutral conductors are not isolated but rather are bonded in the subpanel's only terminal bar. There is no metal fencing, plumbing, etc. connecting the detached garage to the home. Besides the undersized service cable, is this subpanel install OK since it was NOT fed with a 3 conductor plus ground feeder? I seem to recall the rules are different for subpanel bonding and a separate ground rod if there is a metal fence or something connecting the home and garage.

Sorry..I just picked a quick title so I could start typing my question.

Did anyone find this program on their website?

Thanks Jim. Being in PA, we're under the IRC, so I guess this installation is OK then. So, does that also mean that the IRC also allows this type of install even with a metal vent pipe adjacent to the PEX (similar to what Mike mentioned)?

I agree with the others. I think they can keep installing what they have of old stuff until they run out. When they have to order new units, they'll be 13 or higher.

That may be what I was thinking, Mike. So it only has to do exhaust gas temps near the plumbing. What if the gas water heater has a power vent and no metal flue vent?

I get goose bumps everytime I look at that post.

Funny, today I saw single wall gas vent within 3" of a PVC drain pipe.

I recall that where PEX (or other plastic pipe) connects to water heaters, that copper stubs are to be used between the two (pipe and water heater)? Is this due to temperature or what? I noticed a 2000 home yesterday had no copper stubs.

Manual J is the document that HVAC contractors use for sizing heating and cooling systems. There are several factors in deciding upon what BTU rating system to install in a particular home. Just curious.. is Manual J available for download?

Thanks. I had already told them probably early to mid-80s. Can you post the code scheme that Westinghouse uses for their HVAC equipment? I haven't seen info about that brand up to this time.

Thanks guys. Yep, the pictures from Randy pretty much show exactly what I am talking about. They looked like crap and parts were sticking up as they don't bend well and adhere properly. There was even a cupola over the garage and the little 1.5' x 1.5' peaked roof at the top of the cupola looked terrible, even from the driveway as one could see what looked like small patchwork of dozens and dozens little cut shingles.

I am looking for suggestions for comments for architectural shingles installed at the ridge, instead of cut 3-tab or ridge shingles. I ran into this situation today, but the report comment I came up with explaining the situation and why it can be an issue sounds sort of dumb and not worth using, to put it nicely. Any suggestions for a good comment about the condition and why is appreciated. Thanks.

Essentially, yes.

Today, I inspected a home with a Westinghouse central A/C system. I don't recall ever seeing a Westinghouse A/C system before today and don't have their code info in my files. Here's what was listed on the compressor unit: Serial number: jk60397 Model number dsso24ccv I am guessing it was manufactured in the 1980s. Anyone have info for Westinghouse A/C units? Thanks.

Pull the cover plates off the wall receptacles, cable and phone jack boxes, etc. Spray some expandable foam in the rear holes (normally 4) where wiring does or can pass through. Since these boxes make the wall insulation at this point be very low, especially at a west wall, sealing these up can make a difference, and even adding some of those foam receptacle covers behind the cover plates.

Yep, hot chlorinated water seemed to be the biggest of PB's problems. And yes, if its a "B", then its a code number for PEX.

That's a wet vent. Instead of a separate vent line leading to atmosphere, both pipes connect to the sewer drain line (one above the other). It's a wet vent because the line has water and air in it. Whether the install is OK in your area may depend upon the AHJ. In my area, this is permitted, even though several plumbers I've talked to don't like them. The gurgling is air.

I saw something very similar to this last week while doing an inspection on a part commercial/part rental structure. There were 7 or 8 FPE panels scattered about, and the one in the basement had a whitish-greenish coating on all of the exposed copper in that panel. I assumed it was from some sort of chemical in the basement (possibly an old workshop) or something. Since it was an FPE panel, I recommended replacing it anyway.

Thanks,