msteger

Heck, I just got home from inspecting a home with an FPE fuse box. I didn't recommend it be replaced just because it was an FPE fuse box, but the service cable feeding the home is missing its outer sheathing, so the client is going to update the whole service to a new 200 Amp/240 Volt service anyway.

I also call this area 'the small front roof above the xxxxxx room windows'.

I guess that is my question, Brandon. Since there is no sidewall (like an adjacent dormer) present, the horizontal spacing requirement to the roof doesn't come into play here. We are only talking about total height of the vent above the roof (where it passes through). The calculation of the pitch of the roof is what determines if the vent is tall enough (and in reality, far enough horizontally) from the adjacent roof ridge. That was my real question..sorry if I made it more confusing than it needed to be. Thanks.

Since this was a sealed effluent pump, I could not see the pump or determine the manufacturer.

Yeah, it looked to be a little over a 45 deg angle, so that is why I guessed about a 14/12 pitch. That is why I figured it should be 5', not the 3~3.5'. I know there are lateral spacing requirements (like b/w a metal B-vent and a dormer side wall), but I am thinking the height requirement of the vent itself when comparing it to the roof pitch addresses this horizontal spacing issue (as long as it is only a roof, and not a dormer near it). So, was I correct to say the spacing is a little too close?

I ran across this B-type metal vent today connected to an LP stove. Due to the steep roof pitch, I could not get closer to get an actual measurement, but it appeared to be approx. 3'~3.5' between the top of the B-type vent and the adjacent ridge. Horizontally, the top of the vent was just a few inches above the ridge shingles. Estimating just over a 12/12 pitch, I'd expect to see a 5' spacing b/w these two. Am I correct? See the attached photo. Due to the LP service being off, I couldn't fully test the LP stove, so I recommended service by a qualified technician. Thanks. Image Insert: 60.16 KB

Found out from the local code inspection guy that IRC permits wet vents in this type of installation, but the manufacturer of the pump may not permit it with their equipment.

This is just an easy knee-jerk comment about this subject. MOST electricians use MWBC's, and cost is rarely the main issue. There are several good reasons to use them. As has been stated, MWBC's in commercial work are the rule, not the exception. Its a knee jerk comment from a well known electrician I have talked to about this in the past. I could not agree more!

I note evidence of rodents in the attic and recommend consulting an exterminator. Then, I recommend trying to level out or redistribute the loose fill insulation to a more uniform thickness.

Good info. Thanks for the links.

Was there anything interesting on the tapes?

I see FPE fuse boxes also from time to time, but have never heard of any issues with those, just with the breaker panels. Upgrading to modern equipment may be considered, however.

I was at the Smithsonian Museum of American History and next to me a little kid asked his dad what 'that thing is used for'. I looked over and it was a little portable 33/45 rpm record player. I felt old.

I still haven't determined if IRC or the AHJ permits wet vents for this type of application. I've left 4 messages for the local code inspector guy and he doesn't return calls.

The issue is that I haven't determined what IRC requires for this type of fireplace.

I still see these in some new homes. With digital TV now here and subchannels that the cable companies and satellite TV providers don't offer, using an antenna is the perfect way to watch these digital subchannels. TV antennas are making a comeback. Also, since most newer home owner associations 'forbid' outside antennas, the attic is the perfect place for them. You may need these if you want to watch your local Weather Plus, Retro TV Network, My Network, etc. affiliates.

I have been calling these types of circuits out since there is a potential risk. Some electricians use this method as a way to save money and labor (less wire). Its good that the 2008 NEC now addresses this issue.

Thanks Guys. Not sure either where I learned the 13" and 18" rule, but I'll stick to the one in the IRC. I also find plywood or OSB under the hearth extension most of the time.

For fireplace hearth extensions, I have been using the rule of fireboxes level with the floor must have at least an 13" hearth extension to a non-combustible material and those above floor level must be at least 18". I saw that documented 5 or 6 years ago. I was looking through the Code Check Complete book and found a totally different rule for hearth extensions. On page 47, it says 16" minimum hearth extension if firebox opening is less than 6 sq ft. 20" minimum hearth extension if firebox opening is greater than 6 sq ft. The difference being the rule I have been using deals with height of the firebox to determine depth of hearth extension whereas the Code Check documentation has it determined by sq ft opening of the firebox. I can't seem to easily find the documentation right now for the first method, but only what's in Code Check Complete. What do you guys use for this rule regarding hearth extensions for wood burning fireplaces? Thanks.

I've called the local code guy 3 times in charge of that township regarding another issue found during the home inspection and he's never called me back. Makes it a little tough when trying to verify what the AHJ allows.

We have no way of knowing if the terminals on the main breaker lugs were torqued to the amount required when the extra lines were added. Whenever I see main lugs double tapped, I call it out for further review by a licensed electrician.

I've seen several of these ground source heat pumps in my area in the past 6 or so years. These systems are not cheap, but seem to work very well and last longer than an air source HP. No compressor to wear out either. Several schools in this area have been moving to these types of systems and even are installing them under their soccer fields. Companies that do well drilling can also do the drilling for these systems. From what I recall, the refrigerant is a mix of ammonia and a few other items (and part water, I recall). I do the same inspection on these as I do for air source units. Run the unit and take temp measurements. There isn't much to see other than where the refrigerant lines enter the home and looking at the air handler. I've only happened to inspect homes with ground source heat pumps in the summer, so I've only ran the unit in cool mode, however, I would expect we can run these in heat mode as well. My dream HVAC system would entail a ground source heat pump system with natural gas fired backup.

Heck, this morning's inspection was a multi-unit with 4 electrical panels, each with individual 100 Amp/240 Volt service disconnects. One was for the main level unit, one was for the basement/common areas, the other two panels were for the 2nd and 3rd level individually. Inspection stickers indicate these were all installed Oct 2005. The current owner has now combined the 2nd and 3rd level units into one living unit. He then had the main service disconnected in the panel labeled "3rd floor" and wire nutted the service cables within this panel. The panel labeled "2nd floor" has a 50 Amp double pole breaker feeding a 50 Amp double pole breaker in the panel labeled "3rd floor" to feed that panel. The grounding and neutral (grounded) wiring in the "2nd floor" panel was still bonded at the terminal bars. Whomever modified this "2nd floor" panel forgot to separate the grounded (neutral) wiring from the terminal bar in the "2nd floor" panel. There was no metal conduit connecting the two panels, only 4 AWG 2 wire w/ ground Al cable. They should have used 3 wire with ground 4 AWG Al cable instead.

I think it's number 1.

In my 'hood, we currently utilize the 2006 IRC. I know the UPC varies with the IRC when it comes to venting.