John Dirks Jr

I had initially deleted it when I saw it on my smart phone. It's still in my inbox on my PC though. Considering the consensus being it's important, I'll fill it out.

My '98 Cherokee would leak down via bad evap core. I could charge it and it would last maybe 2 weeks. Last year I dug in and replaced the evap core and it's been icy cold ever since. I spent years without AC in that vehicle. The total cost to me for parts and supplies was about $400 considering I replaced a leaky heater core at the same time. It took a good day and a half to disassemble/remove the dash and all that. It was well worth it. I wish I had built up the guts to do it sooner. A good tutorial from a web based forum came in very helpful. Download Attachment: dash.jpg 115.2 KB Download Attachment: 90.jpg 74.44 KB Download Attachment: 38.jpg 51.97 KB

I catch over fused circuits all the time but over fused is an under statement on this one! The lower 240v range circuit (50amp) is being served by 12g. Yikes! Download Attachment: P1290206.JPG 167.53 KB

I'm aware that code allows mixing venting of gas and oil appliances in the same flue. However, could the combination be contributing to the deteriorated condition shown in the picture? Oil fired hydronic boiler and gas fired WH in same flu. Download Attachment: P1290243.JPG 280.68 KB

I got it too.

In my case the equipment pieces are relativly close (10-12'). So, routing or coiling the lines to absorb the excess would be the task. Does that make sense? Which piece of equipment are the lines attached to out of the factory?

Are there any complications in adjusting the length of the lines? How is that accomplished?

These condenser / evap systems that are listed as pre-charged still come in two separate pieces, correct? How is the line kit installed without loosing the refrigerant?

My reports get to 4mb and beyond occasionally too. I've never had a complaint. I got luck today as the one I just sent was only 940kb.

How many sq ft are these patios? I bet they were trying to reduce the riser height between the main floor and grade level. I say tear 'em out and install a PT wood step with proper standoff gap to house wall and a patio at the correct level.

Thats what I was thinking.

Check your keyboard for the key labled - prt sc (usually along the top somewhere) If you hit control + prt sc, it will copy the current screen. Then, open MS paint and paste the image in. You can then edit, save, etc...

Next time I'll just use...Aha!! Is that spelled right?

A friend noticed they had a leak. Some exploring and.... Wala! Click to Enlarge 48.5 KB

sheryl, Respectfully; You were posting about a problem with a shower water supply. I don't really recognize that in itself as a hardship. Then you come in after the fact and mention (lack of money) as if I had known that previously. In that context, I don't understand your disgruntled attitude towards my post. We can be a fun bunch here. I was just sharing my memories of the past in the nature of fun. I hope you can find solutions to your problems, whatever they may be.

I got money on her husband or kids screwin with her by slapping the hot water on and off in the kitchen. When I was a kid I would point the shower head out over the tub rim and turn the tub/shower diverter to the shower position. Next person who turned the water on in the tub would get a surprise shower.

Regardless of when things were built, a safety concern is a safety concern - now.

Yeah...also no weeps or through flashing, flat sills, and big gaps at the sides where the veneer meets the vinyl trim on the sides. I pointed it all out in the report along with the recommendation to have a qualified brick mason sort it all out. 1990 build.

No support or lintel above the window. Bricks falling loose and the whole thing kinda compressing down on the window frame. From the attic side it looked like the bricks were stuck directly to the OSB. How would one go about fixing this? Download Attachment: P1280853.JPG 115.49?KB Download Attachment: P1280854.JPG 101.64?KB Download Attachment: P1280946.JPG 101.18?KB Download Attachment: P1280877.JPG 111.46 KB

Cat IV furnaces extract more heat from the exhaust which makes the exhaust much cooler when it's flowing out the pipe. This produces alot of condensate which would corrode metallic vent pipes. This is why PVC is used as it won't corrode from the condensate. The PVC is also sealed at the joints to allow the condensate to drain back down the pipe to be directed out the condensate drain. Cat IV are also commonly referred to as condensing furnaces. One thing to check on Cat IV's with PVC venting is that the horizontal runs slope slightly back towards the furnace in order to facilitate condensate drainage.

http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/i ... par033.htm

Two active wells. The first time I've seen this. Have you ever seen two well setups in the same house? 1993 build. Click to Enlarge 47.26 KB Click to Enlarge 49.44 KB Click to Enlarge 39.04 KB

At the inspection I told the client it was just cosmetic. I didnt mention it in the report. What did go in the report was the cracked crown and resulting efflorescence and cracking brick work near the top of the chimney. Click to Enlarge 57.61 KB Click to Enlarge 53.47 KB Click to Enlarge 59.55 KB Click to Enlarge 78.37 KB

I think your guess as a transmitter for interconnecting ability is correct. I've never seen one. Did you test it to see if it communicated with the one in the basement? Either way, you're correct for flunking it due to lack of hard wiring.

no