Ken Meyer

If your HVAC system has a condensate pump, how about running the dehumidifier drain line(s) into that?

There was a good article on inspection photography written by Jay Hensleigh in the ASHI Reporter a while back. http://www.ashireporter.org/HomeInspection/Articles/Inspection-Photos-Worth-One-Thousand-Words/9619

We see a fair number of mini split systems here, especially in new construction. Some homes use mini splits exclusively. The most common brands are Daikin, Mitsubishi, and Panasonic. We just had a Daikin single zone system installed at our house this past summer, we love it. As far as I can tell, the build quality is quite good.

Photocell, probably controls an exterior light.

KEH Camera and Adorama are a couple more good choices. Service is great, prices too.

Some do have zero clearance to combustibles, but as you have found, the label is sometimes missing. Click to Enlarge 44.72 KB

The type of Square D breakers that can accept two conductors have a plate with two raised areas. When the set screw is tightened, the plate exerts equal pressure on both conductors. Click to Enlarge 70.28 KB

Broken link fixed.

Thanks Brandon and Patt, I was able to find the 2000 and 2005 instructions, but nothing older. The 2000 does not show the uncaulked gap. What made me wonder is that above the windows in the photos you can see the gap, but it has been re caulked by the homeowner. Other windows on the house look like they have original caulk, or at least someone did a neater job. There are 2 west facing second story windows that had problems likely from weather exposure; rain and baking late afternoon sun, and from lack of maintenance. The fix that was done on both windows was a heavy application of caulk, including covering the weep holes for good measure. There was some rot on vertical trim, I scanned the interior wall adjacent to one of the windows with a moisture meter but didn't find anything. The other room had a bed blocking the window. So my question is: what would your recommendation be for caulking above these windows when repairs are done; leave the gap above the windows uncaulked as current installation instructions say, or follow the guidelines from when the siding was originally installed? Click to Enlarge 36.03 KB Click to Enlarge 43.53 KB Click to Enlarge 42.54 KB

1996

Reviving an old thread here. Brandon, were you ever able to find any older Hardie Plank installation instructions? The oldest ones I have are from 2007. I'd like to know how if a 1/4" uncaulked gap between siding and horizontal flashing was required back then. Thanks

Yeah, I called the main roof out for replacement and said in the report that whoever does bids on replacement should evaluate the low slope one. I wondered if there might be a membrane under it, but wouldn't it have a whole bunch of nails through it even if there was one?

Is there any way the installation on the low slope roof would not be a problem? I thought the minimum for shakes was 4:12. It's too bad they spent all the money on new windows and skylights throughout the house but didn't just go ahead and replace the roof. Look at the old vs. new shakes next to the brand new skylights. Click to Enlarge 70.98 KB Click to Enlarge 60.57 KB Click to Enlarge 83.74 KB Click to Enlarge 77.94 KB

There will be a concentric vent like this one on the roof, but pointing straight up. Click to Enlarge 54.45 KB

At a one year warranty inspection a while back, the homeowner told me that shortly after they moved in, the toilet on the first floor backed up and made a huge mess, ruining the flooring among other things. Turns out the drywall guys had dumped leftover mud down the toilet and it solidified in the waste line. The builder had to dig up the front yard to fix the waste line plus replace flooring and clean up the mess. It's a possibility.