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Mike's Right I use a AO 1/2 face I bought at the orange box also. Honest truth is that this time of year I don't wear it unless I have too. the da#N thing is hotter than he!!. If you wear it in an attic, it will be soaked when you come out. I only wear in in crawl spaces under manufactured homes now. I live around the corner from you in Gilbert, trust me. Unless you have bad allergies you wont wear it, If you do have bad allergies, you probably wont stay in the business for more than a year anyway.

I like the photos, but I'm not buying the chair as the source, shampoo machine maybee but I have a different idea. Pest control. Some one sprayed the area with an oil based insectacide, sprayed along the walls and the furniture, a couple of months latter the dust attracted by the oil became noticeable, that's my guess.

I agree with Donald. My software and my computer are the two most improtant tools and the two that get used the most. (other than the ones God provided me with) Don't skimp on these items, find something that you like and that is durable then make your purchase. You tell your clients not to hire the cheapest inspector, Don't buy the cheapest program.

Kelly, Before you buy that HP, sheck with your inspection software manufacture, I don't belive that the new 3-D will run on that operating system. Then you will end up with a one pound adress book. The dell pocket PC is nice. I just bought a iPAQ 4155 on E-bay for $200. It hac pocket PC 2003, security features wi-fi and bluetooth. It doesnt have a keyboard, but I can carry it in my pocket. It is very slim and light. Just expolre your options before you buy. PS, watch out for the fires and smoke in your area, If I were you I'd take a trip for the next few days.

The guy that told you it's not a issue unless there connected to the same outlet is correct. The NEC says the handle tie is only requited if the circuits share the same yolk. most common place is the dishwasher/disposal outlet.

Douglas said there are many different types of Arcs, The current AFCI's only function on one type, the new AFCI's in the 05 or 08 NEC will require a AFCI to trip with any arc. I'll see if I can find my notes to clarify.

Your right, My bad.[:-banghea I'm just used to seeing these trip up.

I went to NAHI's last conference in Las Vegas. Some of the classes were OK. 1 or 2 were great. about 1/2 of them were for new people that hadn't done an inspection. They didn't say that but I sat there in class saying to myself; man if you don't already know this stuff you shouldn't be inspecting houses. The people were very nice and only a couple of them gave me a hard time about being a ASHI member. Chris is correct though, mingle and talk with the other inspectors there, you will learn as much by doing that as you will going to class. If you can, go to ASHI's Inspection World in January, Fort Lauderdale Fla. Beaches, swimsuits, beer, collage girls, snorkeling, diving, oh yea, one kick ass educational opportunity also.

Are you sure that's your trailer, I could swear I saw it on Bill Engavall's Extreme Mobile Home Makeover[:-eyebrow

In addition to what was said earlier, they haven't allowed breakers to trip up (Go up when tripped) for years. Think about it, when the breaker trips the handle gos up, then gravity pulls it back down, if the breaker is bad (and many Zinsco breakers are) then the connection is made again and arcing starts. Replace it as soon as possible.

I have the version that you are looking to buy. I highly recommend it. Not only does it have both codes but it has the handbook. The codes are PDF files and as such are not searchable,This sucks, but the handbook is compleatly searchable. I use the handbook alot to clairfy issues with contractors and homeowners.

You say it didn't effect you. Looking at your picture, I'd say your as high as a Kite.[]

I have always used the manufactures instructions. On the side of most breakers there is a mark molded into the breaker that shows how much of the wire should be stripped. 2002 NEC 110.12 Mechanical Execution of Work. Electrical equipment shall be installed in a neat and workmanlike manner. 2002IRC E3303.3 Listing and labeling. Electrical materials, components, devices, fixtures and equipment shall be listed for the application, shall bear the label of an approved agency and shall be installed, and used, or both, in accordance with the manufacturer's installation instructions.

Chris, Contact Jim Eckley. He can fill you in on a couple of other requirements that need to be met, like approval of changes or modifications by the US Army corp of Engineers. before any changes are made. This is typically a 2-4 year process.

I fixed it, Thanks.

In the Phoenix area 1945 is Historic. Perhaps these photos can explain why. These are from todays inspection This was the only bathroom in the house. The metal panels were not all secured. Download Attachment: Bathroomsink.jpg 32.84 KB Download Attachment: Shower.jpg 31.84 KB Download Attachment: TubPic.jpg 47.3 KB Download Attachment: KitchenCeiling.jpg 44.93 KB

Brian I think what Kevin is trying to ask is what supports the Brick veneer above the garage roof. The wood framed house is brick over the entire exterior, the garage sticks out of the front of the house and is supporting the brick from on the second story The answer is still the same though. There will more than likely be a steel angle iron supporting the brick. Yes it should have weep holes. More information can be found at http://www.BIA.org

You mean there not supposed to like like that?[:-dunce] Here we only use the heater for 3 weeks a year. I would report it as damaged and tell them to get it fixed before it gets cold. You know like 50 degrees at night.[:-bigeyes For the record it was 105 here today.

This is what Chad referenced. it only applies to tile. 702.4 Ceramic tile. 702.4.1 General. Ceramic tile surfaces shall be installed in accordance with ANSI A108.1, A108.4, A108.5, A108.6, A108.11, A118.1, A118.3, A136.1 and A137.1. 702.4.2 Gypsum backer. Gypsum board utilized as the base or backer for adhesive application of ceramic tile or other nonabsorbent finish material shall conform with ASTM C630 or C1178. Water-resistant gypsum backing board shall be permitted to be used on ceilings where framing spacing does not exceed 12 inches (305 mm) on center for 1/2-inch-thick (12.7 mm) or 16 inches (406 mm) for 5/8 inch-thick (15.9 mm) gypsum board. Water-resistant gypsum board shall not be installed over a vapor retarder in a shower or tub compartment. All cut or exposed edges, including those at wall intersections, shall be sealed as recommended by the manufacturer. 702.4.3 Limitations. Water-resistant gypsum backing board shall not be used in the following locations: 1. Over a vapor retarder in a shower or bathtub compartment. 2. Where there will be direct exposure to water, or in areas subject to continuous high humidity.

Chris, I had a client with the same issue about 4 years ago. There was a oder that would come and go. Finally we discovered that the electrician had left the ceiling light(Surface mount) fixtures out in the rain, then installed them with the insulation still wet.[:-banghead] When a light was on[:-bulb] for more that 5 minutes the oder appeared, turn the lights off and in 20 minutes the smell was gone. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen/smelled it for myself.

Thats not wild. Here in the valley of the sun that is a every day occurrence. I have two of those in my front yard and one in my back yard. 6 months ago I cut them down to about 3 feet high. Two of them are back over 10 feet. those same two are up against a block Wall and there is no damage from them. My neighbor has a Ivy (Sorry I don't know what kind)in his yard that is playing hell with his block wall, it has grown through the wall and out the other side.

Well Done, I was going cross[:-bigeyes2] eyed looking for it.

Consider that line stolen. I will be using it on the air on Saturday.

Thanks, Does anyone have a copy of that reference. It's not that I don't trust Crusty, but I don't want to give the builder any wiggle room.

I need the Earliest code reference for protecting the water heater from vehicle damage. Was it in 1994? I inspected a home built in 2000. The local AHJ is still using the 94 UMC and the 97 UBC No bollard in front of the water heater. The builder said if I could prove that it is in the code that was in effect at the time of construction he would install a bollard. If not he wants me to inform my client that it is just a safety upgrade. HELPid="size4"> I want to tell the builder where he can stick the bollard.