caryseidner

I happened to snap this pic today, a note from the authority to the flunky? Click to Enlarge 44.36 KB No, it is not what you asked for, but it has relevance, I thought. [] Jeeez, that's nothing! My morning breath can melt plastic [:-yuck]

Same here. Plus whenever I see that kind of discoloration, in a wet area, I get even more concerned. All that being being said, I also agree with Scott. The roof overhang should do a good job of protecting this area. If I were standing in front of it, I might think differently.

What Kurt said and gypsum wall board is considered combustible. I see B vents contacting drywall all the time and always call it out, but I've never seen any burn marks on the drywall. Has anyone? Does this really happen?

Robert, it looks like the fasteners are transmitting through. If so, my first thought would be a moisture problem.

I had one of those today. On several occasions I had to stop myself from smooshing her face through the wall.

I've noticed that a few times myself. During one inspection, I took a glass out of the kitchen cabinet and scooped up some of the water so I could see it in different lights. It was clear and no longer appeared tinted. In that case at least, I chalked it up to light absorption. You know, the way the ocean looks blue. Maybe that's what's going on here?

It's tough to say from those tight pics, but it could be a Challenger retrofit. Everything in those shots look very new.

Whenever possible and/or helpful, I'll include an image from my library next to the picture I took of the defect. It allows me to type fewer words and communicate more effectively. For this case, if I were going to include the image below in my report with the pic Robert took, I would put a note on it saying "details similar for roof vent". Click to Enlarge 56.56 KB

I would call that portion the bottom flange.

I prefer to have my clients with me during the inspection. It takes longer, sure, but I think it's worth it.

BTW, does anyone else have problems with their Protimeter SM sucking juice? A fresh 9V barely lasts 6 uses before the "low battery" indicator pops up.

Maybe it was an April Fool's Joke...

I'm not a fan of Extech, so I "think" it's better...but not $150 better.

I received this email tonight and thought I would share, with those of you that might not have: I am very sorry for the seemingly endless delays in publication of Electrical Inspection of Existing Dwellings. There were many aspects to creating this book, including research, writing, editing, acquiring photos, illustrating, and layout. It?s the last one that has turned out to be so time consuming. We are now very close, and at the present rate of production we will have it ready for final edits this weekend, and to the printer on Monday, April 1. That will mean electronic versions on the 1st, and mail copies starting to go out on the 3rd. Please understand that the delays have not been for lack of effort on our part. The problem was my inability to realistically estimate how long each part of the project would take (the same problem I had as a contractor). I really appreciate your support of the project in advance of the book; there wasn't another way I could possibly have taken the time for this if people hadn't been willing to sponsor it. Thank you Douglas Hansen

Is there any update to when the eBook will be delivered?

It used to be a requirement.

They state their current skylight line can be installed at 0:12, but their flashing kits have a minimum slope. Fair enough

I recently inspected a flat roof that had 4 Velux skylights (VS model if I recall correctly) installed on raised, level, curbs. I always thought they needed to be installed with some slope as well, but according to Velux, they do not. Velux does recommend installing them with a slope, but it is not required. Caulking around the glass, like the one in the photo above, could be a sign of a failed seal. It also could be contributing to condensation, as the drainage channels are now at least partially blocked. Either way, it's done!

It was beautiful workmanship and very easy to follow, since it was well labeled. Radiant floor heating throughout and there were 11 zones, including the detached garage and snow melt for the exterior steps and sidewalks. IR was very helpful yesterday. 2mil+ near Wrigley Field, with a couple of neighbors who play for that triple A team. [:-basebal

...or I would have been there another hour or two trying to figure this one out! Click to Enlarge 51.14 KB Click to Enlarge 48.77 KB

Well, if it is EPDM rubber the oils in the roof cement will breakdown the EPDM and ruin it. I wouldn't even bother coating a 15 year old roof. While coatings will protect the surface from UV and extend the life, it won't due much for a 15 year old roof that hasn't had a well maintained coating on it for the last 15 years. Keep patching it until you can afford to replace it.

Which website?

Absolutely, and on second thought, I suspect this roof was not framed to slope the water as described. I'll bet there are some layers of "things" (more roofing, tapered insulation boards, something else) beneath the top layer causing this. Tear it off. If there are indeed other layers, there might be a load issue.

Roofing supply companies make tapered insulation sheets. If the parapet is high enough, I should think you'd be able to go over the existing roof with a layer of foam sheathing that's draining in the right direction and cover it. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike They do sell tapered insulation, but a tapered insulation system is very difficult to engineer properly. Many things to take into account, but the 2 biggest factors are the slope of the existing roof and the installers ability to follow the installation instructions and diagram. That being said, they do work when properly done. I would never recommend installing a tapered system over an exiting roof. If there is no slope or negative slope, the better solution is to replace the roof with a roof covering that is designed for that. CTP (Coal Tar Pitch) and EPDM both can be installed over a structure that has no/negative slope. Mod Bit, as identified in you sample photos, will not remain watertight. It needs positive slope towards a drainage point. The specifications are a little different for either of those systems when they are installed over a no/negative sloped substrate, and as home inspectors we can never see if those have been followed. The bigger problem is finding a good roofer to install either of these systems in a residential application.

And a flashlight if I'm not mistaken. . . You are not. I even have a few extra bulbs[:-graduat