palmettoinspect

I just picked up a Protimeter MMS and it's great. I previously used the protimeter mini until a crawl space ate it or left it on the back of my truck and drove off. I really like the non abrasive testing of the MMS. My question is do any of you using your meter (abrasive or non abrasive) take a control moisture reading on a known "dry" area before or after testing the possible wet area? The meter states 8%-17% is dry and 18%-100% is at risk or wet. My reason for this question is sometimes I'll test a possible wet area and will get a low reading (inside the 8-17%). Then test a few other known dry areas and get a lower reading. I worry that the higher "dry" reading might be a damp or wet area. Does anyone else ever have this concern?

Did it look 29 years old or 8?

You get what you pay for. I've heard form a bunch of my AC friends its very poor product.

Nope no other shots. However there is "J" channel trim installed on top of the deck as you described. Thanks

This is the OSB wall sheathing behind the vinyl siding chimney chase in contact with the perimeter concrete block wall. Is it just moisture “wickingâ€

I had a Bosh dryer that would run for about 10 mins then cut off and say "lint filter" and give an error code. Ended up being the dryer duct clogged with lint and filled up with water (condensation). It was a older house with flex duct. Ended up running a hard duct no screws, less than 4 bends and less than 20' long per owner’s manual. This is a safety feature that alot of new dryers have to help prevent house fires. Dryer is working great now.

From what I understand is metal drip flashing is not required by the manufacturer or code as long as there is peel and stick flashing installed. There is no way to tell if there is peel and stick unless you are there during construction. But I would imagine that a leak would be apparent given the windows are not properly flashed. I’ve done several inspections where just the “street sideâ€

Need help identifying this roof covering and what is the manufactures expected life? Also I don’t think the flashing cap around the perimeter is installed correctly. The roofer installed the roof covering over the top of the flashing cap instead of the cap over the roof covering. I don’t know exactly how this should be installed. Any insight is appreciated. Click to Enlarge 93.06 KB Click to Enlarge 86.14 KB

PVC??? Do not know the correct name of the product but I saw some PVC based trim in Lowes the other day. It was textured like a hardi trim is and hard.

Thanks I understand the button is the correct way to test the outlet. Are these GFCI outlets considered correct??? Even though they are showing up as ungrounded??? Thanks

Can a GFCI outlet trip without the ground wire connected? Reson for the questions is today I had reinspection where a GFCI outlet was installed in a bathroom. The outlet tripped with the button but not the tester. The tester was showing an open groud outlet. I connected the ground wire and still got an open grounded outlet with the tester. Thanks

Thats what I thought too thanks. I called James Hardi and they said the same thing. Thanks Kiel

I inspected a townhome today and none of the vinyl windows had visible metal flashing above them. I have done many inspections and have always noted the metal flashing above the windows. I have checked the James Hardie installation guide and it doesn’t say anything about flashing above windows or openings. All of the homes in the small community were like this not just this one. Also there is no wood around the vinyl windows the trim is built into the window itself. Click to Enlarge 35.44 KB

WOW can"t say I or anone else has have ever seen that!!!

Thanks guys I told the buyer that there is no IRC or UPC code however most municipalites require a drain pan and most of the time its the city inspectors decision. Thanks Kiel

I did a new construction home here in Johns Island SC. I was under the impression that a drain pan was required to be fitted under the washer machine and plumbed to the outside if the machine was installed on the second floor. Does anyone know if this is true? Every other new construction home also had this. Thanks Kiel

Thanks guys I wll note there is no access and will note the improper installation. There are other leaks so there will be a roofer out there already. Thanks Kiel

The valley shingles on this roof were cut in this picture and the lower shingles overlap the top shingles. There is no access to the attic under this valley to check for leaks. Is this okay? Ive never run into this before. Thanks Kiel Image Insert: 62.56 KB

I email all of my reports and I was wondering if you could put a Pre Inspection agreement along with the email and it basically says "by receiving or opening this email you agree to the terms and conditions listed in the Pre inspection agreement" I have a hard time getting my agreements signed so this would help I have seen this on several websites so i was just wonder if it would legally work.

I am doing an inspection on a house for a church tomorrow and I stopped by it the other day to take a look. It has some hairline cracks above or below two or three windows. I think its real stucco not EIFS Ill find out tomrrow. I dont think they are stuctural but Ill get some pics up tomorrow. My questions are: 1. How should I write them up? 2. Should there be a certain amount of expansion joints and would that have helped these cracks? 3. Are hairline cracks pretty normal with stucco homes?? I was thinking of writing it up like this: "Hairline cracks noted to the exterior stucco at the window/door here here and here. These are points of water entry and should be evaluated and repaired by a qualified stucco contractor." Thanks Kiel

LOL thanks Kurt it is crap. I cant wait to hear what the homeowner is going to say about the roof. A wise man once told me "it is what it is"

Thanks guys I feel good about going to meet with the homeowner and "explaining" myself. LOL

SonofSwamp, Great words you are right. I did recommend a contractors evaluation of the cracked brick. So think im covered I just want to make sure the cracks are minor settlement or sagging lintels.

Kurt, In photo 2, how would this expansion shear the brick that are above the lentel? I can understand such force on the brick that is not supported by the lentel. That is the reson I called it "normal to minor settlment" One more thing I might add this house is marsh front so hairline cracks in bricks is pretty common but the gap that I saw in the 1st picture made me a little concerned. AND this is a "sellers inspection: paid for by the listing agent. That is why the home owner wants to "talk" about the cracks. Kiel

Okay thanks I got some explaining to do what should I say??? and is there anything that could be done or needs to be done?