palmettoinspect

I think the NEC covers this in section 404.4. Says something about switch cannot be anywhere the switch can get wet or saturated and that switches are not permitted in the shower unless a part of the shower controls. So it was probably just the electricians or builder choice on where to put the box. In short in can be near the shower, but not in the shower where the switch can get wet.

Jim, That was my first impression too especially since the panel is still in use. I figured some good ole Google research would be in order just in case there?s a recall I was unaware of. Come to find out there is a thread on ?another? forum stating similar melted breaker and that Cutler Hammer is aware of some defects in panel like this one. I?m going to give Cutler Hammer a call tomorrow and go from there. Thanks, Kiel

I ran across this panel at todays inspection. These two spaces were the HVAC unit breakers. The panel is still in use and the HVAC wires were ran to new breakers in the same panel. After some internet research I?ve seen a few reports of other damaged Cutler Hammer panels with aluminum buses and plastic brackets but no recalls. Some cases the homeowner claims that Cutler Hammer replaced their panels. Does anyone know about a recalled Cutler Hammer panel? Thanks Kiel Click to Enlarge 52.43 KB

Borecare is rarely used around here. Mainly just for a secondary prevention measure for termites. While it would help prevent growth it?s still not preventing the moisture issues due to high humidity in a confined space. The only thing I?ve seen that actually works is sealing off the crawlspace vents. Add a vapor/moisture barrier (depending on the amount of ground moisture) and installing a dehumidifier. The dehumidifier will maintain a humidity level that will not let the fungi grow. I?ve seen it work time after time. Here a picture of one that a buddy of mine installs. Click to Enlarge 34.82 KB

And here's more from todays inspection. Also in the Byrnes Down subdivision. Click to Enlarge 42.34 KB Click to Enlarge 39.14 KB

It?s been my experience that almost every conventionally vented crawlspace I inspect here in Charleston has a moisture issues. The humidity plays a huge roll, ductwork doesn?t help nor does the floor insulation. I encourage dehumidification and sealed crawlspace and try to educate my clients about them when I run into such. Even attics near the beach that are conventionally ventilated have moisture issues related to humidity. I wanted to attach some pictures of actually homes I?ve inspected to show you how conventional type ventilated crawlspaces do not always work. These first pictures are from a house in Mt. Pleasant only 6 years old. TJI floor joists. Floors were insulated, but animals had torn most of it down. No ductwork. I inspected in back in October and the moisture readings in the wood were about 10-12%. I would imaging during the summer months they would be 30% +. Click to Enlarge 30.73 KB Click to Enlarge 31.91 KB This one was a home in Johns Island that did not have ductwork or insulation. The first picture is before I started probing the wood and the second shows how rotted the wood is and my probe easily breaking the wood apart. Click to Enlarge 40.36 KB Click to Enlarge 43.52 KB Here?s one in West Ashley in the Byrnes Down subdivision. The picture speaks for itself. Click to Enlarge 82.52 KB

Thanks Marc. I try not to ugly up the family pictures too much.

I recently picked up an Olight M21x warrior and wanted to share my experience so far. I must say that the Olight is very impressive. I was planning on going with the Fenix Tk-11 until these threads started coming out about the Olight. I knew it was going to be bright, but I had no idea that it would be just as bright as my 18v Ryobi HID spot light which weighs in at about 5lbs. The lowest setting on the Olight is almost useless while the middle setting is almost as bright as the highest setting. I leave it on the middle setting most of the time and put it on the highest setting in the crawlspace and attics. I?m still on the original 123 batteries that came with the light after two full days of inspections. I took Bains advice after some research of my own and ordered the Pila charger and AW 2900amh batteries to the tune of $84.00. (cheapest I could find) So $85.00 shipped for the light and $84.00 shipped for the batteries and charger isn?t a bad deal. The only problem I see now is I want the M30. Thanks for all the fine recommendations, Kiel

Plastic-ok Paper-no.

That?s a residential dual check back flow assembly. They are considered minimal protection. Here in Charleston the water company requires these at every water meter. You cannot test them, there?s not any maintenance that?s required other than freeze protection and they don?t ever get replaced unless the meter is replaced. I?d find the manufacture name and model number and give them a call tomorrow and ask how long they last. If that sprinkler uses any type of chemical I?d hope they have more than just that dual check. Around here a RP backflow assembly is required on all fire sprinkler systems.

In that case, I'd just say what I said in my first response. If the water entry seemed to be a problem, I'd add something about preventing water from getting into the assembly. In the pictures, the steel angles don't look all that badly rusted. Where there others that were actually rusted to the point that they were unable to provide support? Jim, Thanks for your help. Yes the steel is badly rusted at the ends to the point where they should be replaced. I've circled one of the pictures to show you. I think your right to suggest removing the wood and determine what support is needed. Click to Enlarge 25.84 KB

Perhaps I'm misunderstanding the situation. The ones that I see are always porches or elevated patios. If they admit some water, it's not usually a big deal. Is this post about a concrete slab over the entire first floor of the house? No the suspended slabs are just the concrete patios/porches. Three total on this particular house. The home is wood framed. They basically don?t have any support in the middle other than the lintels which are rusted out.

I ran into these suspended slabs at my inspection today and need some help understanding them. Home built in 1984. The slabs are installed over treated plywood and supported on the perimeter by concrete block and bricks. There are piers installed in the middle of the forms with steel lintels spanning from the piers to the perimeter block wall. The piers are not in contact with the plywood. The slabs are exposed to the exterior and not completely covered. The slope isn?t very good for shedding water. The steel lintels have rusted out at the ends and the plywood is beginning to rot away. There?s no major movement with the slabs and only minor hairline cracks. My question is what?s the plywood doing? I?d imaging it?s just a form that wasn?t removed after the slab was poured. Does the steel need to be replaced and are the piers suppose to be in contact with the slab? Are these suspended slabs just junk all together? Thanks, Kiel Click to Enlarge 38.07 KB Click to Enlarge 25.22 KB Click to Enlarge 27.33 KB

Wow! I wonder how hot this panel gets?

I wanted to post this picture and ask for some of your opinions. It doesn’t look right to me how these two pieces of the fireplace flue are lapped. Shouldn’t the lower piece be installed inside the upper piece? There were no signs of smoke or soot leaking in the chase or attic. Thanks, Kiel Click to Enlarge 45.99 KB

Wow! I include this picture if I recommend kickout flashing. I don't think I've ever seen it installed right. Most of the time its field manufactured which in most cases is wrong too. Click to Enlarge 35.93 KB

Termites don't eat plastic but they will easily chew through it if it makes it easier to get to the paper. I've seen them mine out vinyl flooring to get to framing. There's a very real danger that they chewed through some of the plastic somewhere in the cable. Sure a chemical treatment will probably kill the colony. But the damage to the cable is done -- and it shouldn't have been used underground or outdoors anyway. Of course the termites should be treated, but the cable should also be replaced. Heck, it should be replaced even if it wasn't damaged by the termites. Agreed! In my pest control days I saw a subterranean colony take a nice chunk out of a rubber shoe left on a front porch they were feasting on.

Anyone ever see these plastic fitting before?

Nope, natural gas. It's a mess I know. You should see the rest of the home. Here's another picture for your enjoyment. So much termite damage. All interior walls and ceiling are wood. Click to Enlarge 48.92 KB

No dryer in this house so I guess the next best thing is the asbestos water heater vent. Click to Enlarge 27.94 KB Click to Enlarge 34.25 KB

I ran across some plastic JMF brand fittings installed with Zurn Pex water lines in a new construction house today. This is a first for me so after another overview of Pex Plumbing Designs and Application Guide Zurn made no comments on these plastic fitting other than this disclaimer. “Several types of fittings are available for use with Zurn PEX. Zurn cannot be responsible for the performance or design of other manufacture’s products.â€

Yeah they do that with the old copper water lines around here. They sure are hell when you catch one on your head or back.

Thanks!

Thanks for the info guys. I informed my client about the mess along with what seems like a million other issues. As always your opinions are appreciated. Kiel

I need some help with this set of stairs. I know it’s a mess as you can see that from the pictures but I’m trying to find some literature about concrete formed steps. Everything I run across has the steps backfilled with debris or dirt then the concrete formed on top. I cannot find anything about forms built in place with no support underneath. Basically the stairs consist of concrete forms built over a perimeter concrete block foundation with not support underneath the steps. I can see that rebar was used in the steps. What are your opinions? Does anyone have any literature about building concrete formed steps like this or is this just completely wrong? You comments are appreciated. I can see the obvious: treads are too small where the steps turn, poor drainage and water pooling on steps, the junction box under the steps, the top landing built over wood without the proper drainage underneath, the finish cracking, the handrail heights and attachments, the foundation straps, etc. Thanks, Kiel Click to Enlarge 36.3 KB Click to Enlarge 37.33 KB Click to Enlarge 44.31 KB Click to Enlarge 45.4 KB Click to Enlarge 30.63 KB Click to Enlarge 31.28 KB Click to Enlarge 36.16 KB