palmettoinspect

It does. Maybe I'm overthinking again!

Guys, I'm unsure as to what exactly is causing this staining to the roof sheathing. There's black stains throughout the roof sheathing worst at the rafter edges and sheathing seams. Home is 2007 with the original standing seam metal roof with a secondary peel and stick underlayment visible between the sheathing. Metal looks great with no signs of abnormal wear. My concern is the underlayment oozing from excessive heat generated by the metal roof and that's what's causing the staining. I understand this can happen, but have never seen it myself. I was also informed that the attic fans were not connected for the first few years of the roofs life, and worry about condensation issue in the attic during the humid summer months. There's some very minor fungi growth visible in picture #3 to the roof sheathing. No drips stains noted under ductwork etc. All areas tested were dry at the time of my inspection. Or, is it obviously staining from rain water maybe during a delay in the construction process? Thoughts? Thanks, Kiel Click to Enlarge 37.27 KB Click to Enlarge 38.73 KB Click to Enlarge 41.18 KB Click to Enlarge 33.79 KB

How'd you tell? cover not fit correctly?

This. ^ Simply putting a barrier in front of it so it can't happen is the easiest thing to do. Very common with "Charleston Singles". Most of are rentals for college kids too.

Having the trap below the floors does not make for easy cleaning. I was not clear, but it's the big ole grates that are installed over the floor drains at the convenience stores the catch all the stuff instead of going into the drain that make them easier to clean. I would explain this is not typical way to plumb a kitchen sink drain and explain the much simpler everyday way.

Wise words. If I'm at an inspection with the buyer and the heat and air check out I'll make a point of telling my customer so they realize or feel the cool/hot air. It saved me once this year as the air went out on the day after closing. Buyer still gave me a call wanting a referral to a heating and air contractor, but she remembered it worked during the inspection.

I'm not sure if you're aloud to have a kitchen sink configured that way, but the drain should be fine as long as there's a trap for the floor drain. That's how a lot of convenience stores plumb their sink around here due to the amount of crap people put down them. It makes for easy cleaning. I know you should not have a trap on the sink drain from the sink.

See those around here quite often in home around the 60s. Panel covers are a PITA to put back on. The large main cover does not have any notches or spots to rest the cover when trying to install the screws.

"Sub Panel" and "Main Panel" are not defined by the NEC. In common usage, any panel downstream of the service disconnect is considered a sub panel. None that I'm aware of. Me either Jim! Just wanted to make sure. This listing agent I'm dealing with is pulling out every trick in the book making me double guess myself. Thanks! Kiel

While on subject I have a question: (not trying to beat a dead horse) When is a panel considered a sub panel? I was under the impression that wherever the main/first disconnect is located that's considered the "main" panel and all other distribution panels after should be wired/are considered sub panels. Are there any instances where there're main disconnects located at the meter that the distribution panels, typically located inside the home, can have 3 wire mains with shared neutral and grounds? Thanks, Kiel

Here is the typical brick home in Charleston. Click to Enlarge 60.74 KB

There were only visible end dams at the bottom of the doors but the pictures do not show. Did not see them anywhere else.

This was a luxury condo complex in downtown Charleston. I wanted to share some of the brick detail pictures. Very rarly have I seen brick done correctly so I was taken back. It hard to believe how badly installed most brick is. Click to Enlarge 46.46 KB Click to Enlarge 52.43 KB Click to Enlarge 28.01 KB

Now thats what im talking about. I see similar pans under water heaters all the time in higher end homes around here. Sometime I will see the entire laundry room tiled and the floor sloped to a floor drain with tile curb/baseboards. I still wont put one under mine. I recently tiled the laundry room and master bath floors so I dont have to worry about hardwoods anymore. Plus what are the odds of my washer leaking three times? On that note.....BRB going to check the washer!

I know but kinda hard to do when you are on a slab. I did not have a drain pan under my washer nor do I have one now. I believe it's a good idea to have a drain pan but I don't rely on one even with a drain they're not going to do much. Most of the time the drain is not sealed water tight to the pan anyways.

I must have bad luck as I have had two incidents about one month apart. We recently had a washer machine that started leaking at the pump under the unit. Flooded the whole laundry and master bathroom next to the laundry. About one month later with our new washer my wife decided to wash the kitchen bar stool cushions (she doesn't quite get the concept of small vs large loads) and stuffed them all in one load. As the washer spun around one of the cushions was sticking up and it splashed water out the lid and flooded the floor almost as much as the leaking pump. One thing I realized is those little ole plastic drain pans with a washer stuffed in them isn't going to catch much water.

The home I inspected had both brick and CMU piers. Mainly the brick piers were on the perimeter walls with a few CMU piers. All interior piers were CMU. Also the garage foundation walls were completely brick. The home was built in 1999. It's common to see independent brick piers in older homes around here, but I've not seen them used in a newer home. Anyone know a reason to use brick instead of CMUs like this? Thanks Kiel Click to Enlarge 47.38?KB

I second Nolan and suggest Whisper Reporter. You can download the full version and play with it. It's going to seem overwhelming at first, but the salesmen Larry has about the best customer service out there and will literally help you every step of the way. Sounds like a plug I know, but if you learn the program it's quite nice. I'm using Whisper reporter with my Asus Eee Slate EP121 and it's amazing! It's a FULL PC with touch capabilities that uses Windows 7 and a CORE I5 processor. One of the best features is the 18 second start up. The stylus is the best on the market the handwriting recognition is awesome. The screen is made of Corning Gorilla Glass and is virtually indestructible. Prices are down to the $900 range because of Microsoft releasing the Windows 8 computers that are more "touch" friendly. All in all find what's best for you. Most reporting software has free trial downloads. I would never consider a software that I could't try before I buy.

It's a shame. You would think the cost of the home would have at least something to do with it.

I wanted to share some of the the pictures from the house I inspected today. The home is on the market for $1,000,000. You would think for the price the traditional stucco coat would have at least been done right. Click to Enlarge 34.92?KB Click to Enlarge 58.18?KB Click to Enlarge 23.45?KB Click to Enlarge 62.76?KB

Im not exactly sure. I've never seen one.

Very stupid. This is the only muni around here that does it. The other do not. There is a plug that screws into a clean out at the street. I was very sceptacle that the plug was not the cause of the clog, but the buyer called the sewer company and confirmed they had plugged the main and the plug was not removed. I would have thought the main drains would have backed up faster than they did.

Yes the main drain line was plugged. The buyers were really worried about what was clogging the drain line so the buyer called the sewer provider and the listing agent did not contact them to unplug the drain. This particular municipality has 3 different sewer providers and only one water provider. So this house has a sperate sewer and water service. Therefore the need for the drain plug. Yes bad idea and I have no idea how they measure the amount of sewer that's used I imagine they just charge a flat rate. I did run the water in 2 other bathrooms, the kitchen, and through the whirlpool tub prior to plugging the whirlpool tub drain. There were no other indication of slow or clogged drains until I checked the toilet in the bathroom before the whirlpool tub. All the other sinks, tubs, dishwasher were all draining fine. After the plug was removed I went back for a reinspection and ran all the water in the same order and no leaks occurred.

I inspected a foreclosure the other day that had been winterized. The water and power were turned back on for my inspection. Long story short after running the water throughout the house I get to the whirlpool tub on the second floor and start running the water. From past experiences I always run back downstairs and check for leaks prior to plugging the drain. No leaks so go back upstairs, plug the drain, test the jets etc. Pull the plug and head into the attic and hear the buyers screaming the first floor is flooded. Turns out the water company did not remove the plug from the main drain line at the street. Water was coming up from around the wax ring at the first floor ? bath toilet. What I should have realized is the toilet in the hall bath started to clog and not flush. I figured there was something clogging it. I had no idea at the time what was going to happen. I told the buyer as we were standing there looking at the flooded first floor ?this is what we?re here to find out?.

I just found this listing on ebay for an extra tail piece for an Olight in case anyone is interested. I?m interested in getting the m20 with side switch that way I don?t have to turn the head to pick which setting I want. I wonder if that will work on my m21x? EBAY