palmettoinspect

Thanks! I saw you refer to this manual in another post about terra cotta blocks. I did a google search for it with no luck and I was about to order a copy on Amazon. I'll print it out and put it next to the stucco info I got from the TJI library so I can read it while dropping the kid off at the pool. Kiel

Does anyone know if it matters how dense structural terra cotta blocks are stacked? After some research some of the pictures I’ve seen have the blocks stacked with the “ribsâ€

See that all the time here. Once did a house that recently had the bathroom remodeled and the contractor forgot to cut out the register. The duct just terminated under the cabinet. While inspecting the crawlspace I pulled back the insulation and the floor was soaked. I first thought one of the whirlpool jets was leaking.

It looks like you’ve got more to worry about then just some brick cracks judging from the pictures you posted. I would recommend hiring a home inspector rather than asking a home inspection forum for advice from just a few pictures.

Check out these pictures. Plumber went around his you know what to get to his elbow. Click to Enlarge 37.03 KB Click to Enlarge 36.53 KB

Did you try google?

Today I got a response back from the architect at Isokern. She stated that this installation looks fine and she even attached a diagram showing offset blocks twisted and their installation. Thanks, Kiel Download Attachment: .pdf"] twisted app[1].pdf 64.51 KBThanks for all the help guys. Kiel

I don't doubt the quality of this chimney just the installation. After looking at both the Anki & Isokern chimney systems it looks like the offset blocks are installed wrong. I’m going to get in touch with Isokern tomorrow since they have an office here in town. Hopefully they can take a look at the picture and shed some more light on this. Again thanks for the help and comments.

After a short look at this site I think this is the system that’s in this cottage. There is even an office here in Charleston. The sticker from my picture is on a picture from the site. Thanks for all the info guys. I’m going to contact the Charleston office tomorrow and get this straight. Thanks, Kiel

Chad, Thanks! I read the manual cover to cover. I also checked out their website where there is more info. On the manual it states: Bends can be achieved using purpose made offset blocks. All offset blocks must be fully supported. It’s also requiring a 1.5â€

I wonder if there's enough room inside the block at the top to do so. Or do you mean take down the block then install the metal chimney?

Yes it’s a wood burning fireplace. There's a set of gas logs in there now. I agree with you it looks restricted. I wish I could’ve accessed the cap and looked down it but it’s a pretty steep slate roof and it was raining today. Thanks, Kiel

This chimney was from the cottage I inspected today. The top 2-3 blocks were installed twisted and not in line with the rest of the stack. Looking from inside the fireplace the blocks are rounded on the inside so I wouldn’t imagine it matters the way the outside of the blocks are stacked as long as the inside is all in line. Without being able to see from the top of the chimney I don’t know for sure if it’s sealed correctly or not and wanted to get some more opinions. The only label I found installed on the block was the one from this picture. Thanks, Kiel Click to Enlarge 54.44 KB Click to Enlarge 39.12 KB Click to Enlarge 42.52 KB

One can only imagine what the inside of that pipe looks like.

Thanks Mike! That's a good idea to reroute the wire under the unit. along with the other wires. Kiel

I discovered this on a house last week. They ate the vent, boot, and then went for the attic door. Click to Enlarge 93.77 KB Click to Enlarge 23.84 KB

I saw this during my morning inspection. I believe it's the wire for the wall switch that turns the gas logs on and off. I know there's all kinds of wires used with a set of gas logs but this one seemed funny. I wonder if it would melt from the heat and if it was an add on. Just wanted to get ya'lls input. Thanks Kiel Click to Enlarge 55.96 KB.

I know--just kidding[] HAHA Gotcha!

Jim- Yes there was. Plenty of wildlife under this house too, saw a live one while inspecting it. Thanks, Kiel Greg- I was refering to the vent.

This home has a fresh air vent for the fireplace located in the crawl space. There are gas logs installed at the fireplace. The crawl space is vented with foundation vents and does not have major moisture issues. Is this okay? Any input is appreciated. Kiel Click to Enlarge 38.52 KB

WOW. I feel pretty dumb for not realizing that. If I would’ve thought about it yeah that would be really thick. HAHA thanks for the correction. I made changes to my post.

Depending on different factors such as cost, amount of moisture, desired durability, these factors will all play a role in determining the thickness of your vapor barrier and the material used. 20 mil thick barrier would be great but if your ground is as dry as you state it might be overkill. There is very little difference between 6 and 20 mil plastic when you are blocking moisture. I would go with the thicker plastic for durability and long life if there isn’t a huge price difference, the thicker the better. All you are trying to do is block the ground moisture from rising into the wood and causing a fungus to grow. The minimum I would go with is 6 mil plastic. This plastic should last many years and is pretty durable. Another factor to take in to consideration is your termite bond. If you have a chemical termite treatment the chemical is applied around the foundation piers and walls. If you fasten plastic to the walls and piers you will create a bridge for termites to use where there is no chemical applied. Seams kind of farfetched I know but it’s not and I’ve personally seen it happen. That’s also what your termite company is going to say when you find an infestation and damage. If you want a completely sealed moisture barrier go with the 20 mil barrier sealed at every seam and the foundation walls/piers. If you want a vapor barrier then a 6 mil plastic lapped 3 foot at each seam set back 6-8 inches from foundation wall or pier will work great. If you decide to install the barrier yourself measure the area and cut the plastic outside. Then label it, drag it under the house and spread it back out leaving you with a clean neatly cut barrier. You can pin it down with garden pins or tape/mastic the seams often enough to join all pieces of the barrier together. I wouldn’t recommend insulation unless you are going to maintain it and it’s installed properly. You must ensure all holes leading to the crawlspace are sealed to prevent animal activity.

There are so many factors to consider when determining if a breaker is too hot. Such as ambient temperature, amps, types of loads, wire sizes, breaker size, etc. I don’t know the exact answer to that question and I don’t think one exists. Each breaker is different. I was told the only way to know for sure is the same breaker under the same load. Its obvious AFCI, GFCI and double breakers are typically going to be hotter than normal 15/20 amp single breakers. I’ve seen AFCI and GFCI breakers ranging from 80-120 degrees, never any higher. I’ve seen many double breakers 120-130 degrees and didn’t mention them in my report. Never have I seen one 150 degrees or higher. So when I scanned this panel saw the breaker was about 150 degrees and heard this arcing buzzing sound I felt it needed an evaluation by a licensed and qualified electrician. One thing to note also, when I scanned the panel during the initial inspection the hottest the breaker showed was 150 degrees. I then met the electrician on site a few days later to show him the issue. I didn’t get the 180 degree shot until he removed the breaker and I was able to get a shot from the side and the top. Kiel Allen

This is a breaker from a panel box I recently inspected that supplies power to the HVAC unit heat strips. The breaker got up to 180 degrees under load. The electrician stated the problem ended up being a defective breaker. Once replaced the breaker did not exceed 99 degrees. The first thing that set me off to the problem was an arcing/buzzing sound coming from the breaker. Check it out. The first picture is the breaker once the electrician removed it from the panel. The second is the panel once the new breaker was re installed and ran under load. Click to Enlarge 9.04 KB Click to Enlarge 8.9 KB

What kinds of batteries are ya’ll running for these lights and how long do they last? I see there’s rechargeable battery and a charger available, does anyone use the rechargeable batteries? Thanks Kiel