palmettoinspect

Not to derail this thread, but what rule should be followed in this scenario? 150 amp panel 2 poles using this equation 150 Amp x 2 Poles = 300 / 10 = 30. There should only be 30 breakers. The panel model number is rated for 40 breakers- qoc40uf. Do you go off the equation or the manufacture label?

Was the original brick removed below the roof line, which would now be an interior space, when the sunroom was added?

Yep, looks like rodent tunnel for sure!

OK, I need an update. I thought NEC said total 42 circuit/breakers in a panel. Now it's unlimited? Since the 2008 edition. Here's the best explanation that I've seen so far: http://static.schneider-electric.us/doc ... DB0701.pdf So do the manufacture CTL rules still apply?

I'm with Kurt on this one, Snakes aren't so bad, it's the rats that I hate! I see quite a few snakes! Worst thing I've ever seen under a home is an Alligator! Might sound scary, but they're the norm around here. The crawlspace is just on the other side of my shoulder and wide open in the picture below. Click to Enlarge 59.37 KB Click to Enlarge 44.68 KB Click to Enlarge 45.98 KB

This is what the typical weep screed looks like on stone veneer around here. Some of the contractors add the additional stone to the slab under the weep screed some don't. Click to Enlarge 52.61 KB

Wow!

Thanks for the examples Kurt! I try to limit the fluff on mine and also give specific pictures in the body of the report under the comment. My clients also love the red arrows. Your comment " call me at my office to discuss" is a great one that I think I'll start using.

Edit to add: I understand using a peel and seal membrane tape and a paintable type membrane for the CMU window opening before the window is installed. I'm more interested in a detail showing sealant around the windows and flashing to the exterior incorporated with the stucco coat. Does such detail or diagram exist?

That's what they call Glue Lamb beams right? LOL!

I'm looking for some good window detail diagrams on how to flash and seal windows into a CMU wall with a stucco finish. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Kiel

The temperatures are ok. I wouldn't think anything of it from the picture, but now you got me wondering. What about the wires that show some heat at the right side of the picture maybe?

Now you've got me confused. Marc Sorry, should've been a little more clear. The "just an estimate" is referring to the age.

The "sellers disclosures" around here are hardly worth the paper they're written on and often seem like an outright lie. I'm sure some try and truthfully fill theirs out, but most are nowhere near accurate. I usually give an estimate on age such as 5-7 years, 10-12 years etc. I will tell the buyers that there's not a date on a roof like a water heater or heating and air units so it's just an estimate. Most of the time I'm pretty accurate, but tell them if I was wrong it wouldn't be the first time. How about just stating the condition, especially if you are letting them know that your estimate of the age can be wrong (AKA meaningless)? I just let them know the current condition and if it needs to be repaired or replaced. If the roof is in bad condition but not currently leaking I warn them that they should budget for replacement in the very near future. I recommend that they get an estimate for the cost of replacement. That is all they want and need to know unless there is a warranty issue. I also note the condition, not just the age. It's really not that hard give an accurate age of a roof.

The "sellers disclosures" around here are hardly worth the paper they're written on and often seem like an outright lie. I'm sure some try and truthfully fill theirs out, but most are nowhere near accurate. I usually give an estimate on age such as 5-7 years, 10-12 years etc. I will tell the buyers that there's not a date on a roof like a water heater or heating and air units so it's just an estimate. Most of the time I'm pretty accurate, but tell them if I was wrong it wouldn't be the first time.

Checking for old nails holes in the roof sheathing can help also to determine if the roof has been replaced or not. It's not always reliable though.

Looks like single strand aluminum branch wiring to me. Aluminum wire typically has the rubber looking insulation, while tinned copper has a cloth wrap.

How does the snow sit on the roof when it snows? Nail pops or exposed nails can be hard to find, but usually drip through without staining that much sheathing. If the nail is not driven all the way through the sheathing I guess it could soak into it like that, but it seems a little excessive for just a nail pop or two.

Just chased one out my trash can tonight! Never actually ran into one in a crawlspace, but you sure can smell when or if they've been there. Did see a dead one in an attic, boy do they tear some stuff up!

Yep, apparently they do. New construction homes aren't immune around here. Click to Enlarge 29.34 KB

Good points! Thanks bill!

Did you try pushing the tandem breaker in firmly? I always make sure a breaker isn't going to pop out before I take the cover off. Occasionally the cover is keeping the breaker from falling out. Yes, I did. I don't like to touch anything aside form the normal things we have to touch, but in a case like this I will. It wouldn't go back in. I would never pull a breaker out completely to check if it's altered or not though. This was a Square D wafer / tandem breaker in a GE panel.

How wrong is this? This is a wood frame stucco chimney shroud on this new construction home I looked at today. Is anyone aware of some references or requirements for chimney shrouds? The fireplace is set up for a gas log set, but currently only has a gas line ran to it and no logs yet. It's a wood burning fireplace with damper and flue. For one I worry about the obvious wood framed part, but realize the stucco offers some fire rating, but how much? Is it something to worry about? Secondly clearances to the walls. There's no access to the roof as it's four stories up to measure, but it looks awfully close and the cap does not extend up past the chase cap very much. This is a very high end home, but I've run across a few obvious things I'm shaking my head at, but not confident on how wrong this is. Any guidance is appreciated. Thanks, Kiel Click to Enlarge 36.17 KB

Great read! Although I hate thinking about all those previous panels I've seen before with tandem breakers and wondering if they were allowed. Just ran into this tandem breaker installed that was not seated correctly. I called it out, but looking back I'm glad I did as I'm thinking its was probably altered to fit the panel. Click to Enlarge 49.58 KB Click to Enlarge 72.75 KB

I believe he's referring to a double "wafer" or "tandem" single pole breaker.