palmettoinspect

Try the "P" program setting. You can set it to what you want, but the factory "P" setting works great for me. I never use the "auto" setting anymore. My biggest grip with the "auto" setting was how long it took to take a damn picture in the dark. It has to cycle through which one is best and that's what takes time. I leave the flash on auto 95% of the time. If you leave the flash on constantly it will really eat at your batteries. I can cycle back and forth between the "P" and "micro" mode by muscle memory now. I don't even have to look at the buttons anymore lol!

I started using the Pentax W90 from a tip I got from here years ago. The W90 one lasted a few years. It only broken when I smashed the lens glass while having it in my hand along with a screw driver. It still worked after the glass was gone. I picked up a Pentax W10 about 2 years ago now from my local target after the W90. It's beat to hell and keeps on ticking. The pictures are plenty clear for the report and I learned to use the a different setting than just the "auto" setting for faster shooting and better flashes. The micro mode is great for shooting labels, but the camera must be held pretty still. If you go with the Pentax/Ricoh W series I don't think you will be disappointed. Kiel Click to Enlarge 44.19 KB Click to Enlarge 34.37 KB Click to Enlarge 46.17 KB Click to Enlarge 44.7 KB Click to Enlarge 43.1 KB Click to Enlarge 48.54 KB Click to Enlarge 33.66 KB

Yep, those screws are nice! I've seen roofers using soft foam pads for traction on metal roofs. Works pretty good.

Glad you're alright! Nothing wrong with the ol? crab crawl when on a roof, I've mastered it.

Thank you for the reply John. As for the piers they're 16x16 solid filled piers with rebar from what I understand. I never recall seeing braces on concrete piers, wood pilings yes, but never with concrete piers. I feel the steel and all is a bit over kill on the home, but there's a lot of over kill. The house has a standing seam copper roof, which isn't a everyday roof in the area this home is located.

I'm left scratching my head on a few things about this modular home I recently looked at. Home is located in a really bad flood zone, is elevated 14' and has a wood floor system. 2x8s 16" on center from what I can tell with double and triple 2x12 beams. Typical, rectangle ranch style home. However, then under that is an additional steel framed floor system. "I" beams, not manufactured home stuff. It appears to be sight built then the modular home pieced together over it. It's bolted to the wooded framing, but not the foundation piers which is needed. The one thing I'm unsure about is the corners at the gable ends and how they're not supported. Should I be concerned? I know there's very little weight here and there's no signs of movement in 10years. Thanks, Kiel Click to Enlarge 54.23 KB Click to Enlarge 42.18 KB Click to Enlarge 47.49 KB

I've had a few things happen over the years. A few jetted tubs with incomplete drains come to mind. I always tell the homeowner "that's what I am here to find out" when they begin to get upset and play the blame game. While it's a good idea to do a walk through prior to running systems, it's not something I do regularly unless the home has been winterized or in really poor shape.

Ah Mac guy! I hear very good things about them, but have never looked into one.

Thanks for the reminder. I need to do mine, but Time Machine sounds nice. I'll look into it. What new computer did you get? I just picked up a Microsoft Surface Pro 2 and love it.

Typically you would see the pilings notched and the beams resting inside the notch and then through bolted.

Why try it if Mycroft said so? [] Joke, not really going to try. []

Gotcha! Thanks! I'll definitely try that Jim!

That's what I thought. Should they be removed? Will they prevent the breaker from tripping when on? It looks like it will?

Are these wire tabs around these breakers handle locks? I've never seen them before and they appear to lock the breaker in the "on" position. I can understand them for lockout protection when used in the "off" position, but this seem hazardous. Or am I completely off and they're totally something else? Thanks, Kiel Click to Enlarge 44.03 KB

It feels good to hear you say that you worry too! The worry of missing something is always on my mind. I've come to get use to it and use it as motivation. Although, thinking back over the last 9 years, there's only a hand full of times I've been called back and two or three I can actually think of I truly missed. It's a constant thing on your mind for sure!

Ahhh! The clam shell design! Always called the stuff cultured marble.

I agree with hausdok on this. That dehumidifier will suck to water out the "P" traps if it were in a house. It has no problem eliminating the humidity in the crawlspace. I'd keep it around 60% as do most people in my neck of the woods. 40% is too low. The wood moisture content should stay under 19%, which Clemson states is the key number to stay under. (Not a fan of by the way. GO GAMECOCKS!) You're overthinking it a little. You spent your money wisely. Don't worry about it. This system actually works.

I too hope this becomes SOP. Clean crawlspaces get me excited!

Marc Ultrafire is crap. You get what you pay for. Try out a Olight, klarus or zebralight to name a few. I promise you will be pleasantly surprised. Also quality batteries and a charger that maintain and do not overcharge the quality batteries is a must.

Tom check out the zebra light line. Specifically the sc600. There are different models ,but the newest is the mk11 that uses the l2 led.

Very good light. I gave one to my brother who is Leo and this thing takes a beating without issue. I currently use a zebra light sc600 mk2 that's 1100 lumens. Super floody light way better for home inspections in my opinion.

You do not have to remove the floor insulation. Reading this is better than me trying to explain it. http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/crawlspace-insulation As for the pool equipment, once it's sealed off you can still access the area. It's only sealed off to the outside air.

Click to Enlarge 42.71 KB Wow! That's horrible! Very common for crawlspaces around here, but not attics.

Kurt has nailed it. There's a moisture problem causing the growth on the floor. Ground moisture, coupled with the moisture intrusion, AC inside the home, and the outside humid air used to ventilate the crawlspace causes the perfect environment for the growth. Your floor insulation is not helping either. Very common issue for the Southeast. That looks to be like almost every floor system here in Charleston about 2 hours away from you. From the pictures it's not terrible, but a vapor barrier alone will not stop it. Sealing off the vents from the outside air, condition the existing air with a dehumidifier and correcting the one spot of moisture intrusion that you noted is best. Here's a few pictures of what a really nice crawlspace looks like after. This home was done from day one and shows no sign of growth. The downstairs air handler is located in the crawlspace and does not sweat either. Most people do not insulate the walls after removing the floor insulation, but it's an option. Click to Enlarge 48.67 KB Click to Enlarge 34.39 KB Click to Enlarge 31.28 KB

Thanks guys. That makes feel me a little better. Hausdok, How bad do the underside roofs look around there? This is a rarity in this particular neighborhood. Most sheathing still looks great even after a few roofs.