Terence McCann

There was/is a HB (House Bill - HB283??) that has funding for just the type of thing you're speaking of. It also can go toward, new HVAC, new windows or other energy saving devices in schools. There was a lot of activity in this, back when I got out of the business, in 2001. The big guns like Johnson Controls were going after this market. Anyway you should check into this as well. Also, control companies make transducers and digital interfaces for existing pneumatic controls - you keep the pneumatic valve or pneumatic damper operator but now control them digitally. I would think that any stimulus funding would be weighted on energy savings, not in putting a new carburetor on a 30 year old engine. Trane and Carrier would be your best bet for new UVs (although McQuay might be an option as well). Good luck.

You can retrofit the UV with electric/electronic controls however by the time a tradesman is done farting around trying to fit a square peg in a round hole it would be wiser to replace the whole unit. One problem with these units is that the o/a damper would stick open and would cause the coil to freeze. The custodian most likely went around and disconnected them and/or boarded it up. The damper bushings also wear out so you would have to look at rebuilding the damper as well. You may still be able to find the blower motors but maybe not given the age. To me is akin to rebuilding a window air conditioner.

Tell us what you think when you've finished beta testing it. It's really good Tom - I wouldn't say that if it weren't true. Vista and Windows ME were terrible and users should have been able to get their money back. It's hard for me to get excited about an OS - it's just a system that allows me to run software. This is the ideal OS however: Happy Holidays!

It's not a truss system Robert. I must admit though the only place I've seen metal studs and such was in commercial build-outs - like in office hi-rise towers.

Actually Win 7 is pretty good. I had Vista on this rig before that - what a pos. [:-yuck]

If you right click in the far right part of the file explorer window you should be able to click "view" and then your choices are there.

How does one empirically or quanitatively determine if mortar was correctly mixed by scratching it? Clearly if the stuff is like sand there's a problem, but what about everything in the middle ranges and slightly beyond? I wasn't suggesting to go as far as attempting an empirical or quantitative determination. Just scratch it with your fingernail. If it scrapes off that easily, that's all you need to write off the whole installation. If it's borderline, forget it, just write up the blocks. Marc I'm slow, so be patient. Are you saying that if you can easily scrape mortar out of one joint--or even ten--in a block foundation, your stance is that the entire installation should be "written off," which I assume is synonymous with "considered failed?" The block that's out of alignment by a country mile is "small fish" - barely worth a passing glance. []

Pretty cool Chad.[:-thumbu]

I have found that charts and such maybe good on a brand new, correctly installed system however not so much on a system that has seen a decade worth of dirt.

It's a moving target. The attached chart lays it out though. Download Attachment: Temperature _Differential_Chart_Carrier.pdf 75.9 KB Have you tested any systems in Arizona Jim?

I have never, in my life, seen 6" duct used as a downspout. The red thing next to it looks like a built in bookshelf.

What are we looking at John?

That's an interesting observation. It takes energy to condense vapor into liquid. We tend to look at how things operate in our neck of the woods. No one here runs A/C unless it is warm/hot outside and with the heat comes humidity. Maybe Arizona not so much. Not having been to a warm dry climate, while testing a A/C system, I'm at a loss to give an authoritative opinion. Have you tested A/C systems in this type of enviroment Jim? Jim's referring to latent heat removal and sensible heat removal. It's a rock solid concept. [] Marc Really???? Jim should know where I'm going with this. Given the lack of humidity how many more degrees delta T might we see? (no fair asking your HVAC guru).

That's an interesting observation. It takes energy to condense vapor into liquid. We tend to look at how things operate in our neck of the woods. No one here runs A/C unless it is warm/hot outside and with the heat comes humidity. Maybe Arizona not so much. Not having been to a warm dry climate, while testing a A/C system, I'm at a loss to give an authoritative opinion. Have you tested A/C systems in this type of enviroment Jim?

You can't get any clearer evidence than Darren's picture. The fact is indisputable. Now, if the excess water caused excessive growth of moss, lichen, algae which destroyed the shingles in that area so be it. Whatever the case it is a good idea to inform the client to extend downspouts to the lower gutter. I still think it's bad form to expel a lot of run off on a small area of shingles (a little Dormer notwithstanding) but God forbid we tamper with the aesthetics of the 2,200 sq ft McMansion. What will the neighbors say Harry?

Me too.

He'll only use it Douglas to make this: Pfftt.. []

The original should suffice Darren, thanks. A picture is worth a thousand words and I'm all for cutting down on report time.

The shoe makers kids....

If you were to report the damage, as seen in Darren's photo, what would you say is the likely cause of it? Permission to snag this photo Darren?

It won't affect the liquid line however the superheat will most likely be to high. It was wise to recommend calling a contractor to take a look at it. You'd really need gauges and temperature probes to see how it functions in the real world. Totally in agreement, but wouldn't the condenser have to be overcharged to make a system like that function correctly? Playing it out - you would think but to how much I couldn't guess. If your superheat was in line then the head pressure would be too high and the sub-cooling to low (over-charged). If the head pressure was ok, and the sub-cooling was ok then the superheat would be high (under-charged). An evap that is 1 ton bigger than the rest of the system is really stretching it. If, as Marc said, you changed the piston/TXV (you could split the difference) then you maybe able to dial it in where it would be passable however very unorthodox and not recommended. Seeing as so many new techs cut their teeth in the residential market it would surely throw them for a loop either way.

It won't affect the liquid line however the superheat will most likely be to high. It was wise to recommend calling a contractor to take a look at it. You'd really need gauges and temperature probes to see how it functions in the real world.

Google has a safety net in place for those that like to, ermm, click a lot. Google knows the IP and will not allow charges to go through when this type of thing happens.

Sure is. Have flashlight, will travel.

That's funny Les. What Les said is probably right. Is the hot water piping running through the attic at all? My brothers house use to freeze the hot water piping in the attic but the cold would still run as odd as it sounds. Heat tape was the cure there.