mark parlee

John, there is a document on installation of natural stone in an adhered method. Follows a lot of the same details as the MVMA or the NCMA-MSV guide. You can find it here. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=adhered+natural+stone+installation+guide&atb=v314-1&ia=web There is some misleading info regarding the way the lath is installed and its nailing pattern that does not agree with code or that of the various ASTM documents, but that is for a longer in-depth conversation.

Mike, You are confusing the visual resolution with thermal resolution. As Anatol pointed out the thermal resolution is 80x60 which is 4800 pixels. While you can use this, the resolution is pretty low. Once you have a higher resolution camera in your hand it would be tough to use this for anything other than a glorified temperature gun. It might fit what you are needing but if advancing in thermography at all it does not even start. In your post you do say you use it only for radiant heat which it would work for. One of the things I do not like is it clips onto the phone and we already have enough trouble with the jacks on the phones going bad, this only adds to the problem. You might consider the C5 as an alternative, More durable and stand alone, yes more money but no wear on your phone jack. I have one for just the purpose of accurate temperature readings on the surfaces of the materials I am looking at. I do a lot off building diagnostics and forensics and do not enjoy carrying my T540 in attics just to get a temp on the building materials. The T540 is my fifth camera and I do want to msake it lasts at least one more year. At 15K I like to get at least 4 years out of it.

Foundation wall, Very common. 8 inches thick sits on a footing. If this were a ranch home or 2 story you would see the top 12 inches or so of this foundation wall

I am selling my Fluke Tix 560. This is in the Fluke Profesional Series line of cameras. I just had the camera cert updated. New it was 18.5k with the wide angle lens. I will take 11k and include an electrical meter that was an incentive rebate when I purchased the camera. A very nice camera and the only reason I am selling is that I am again upgrading. If interested my contact info is on my website. www.thebuildingconsultant.com

the lag time is not that bad. Sure it is not instant and depending on how cold you let the slab get, it is a factor. Once it is set you leave it. This is not a setback optional way of heating.

Pre-plumb for floor heat and then you have that option. The tubing is not that expensive and you cannot do it later.

Getting in here late. That is Hardie Plank Smooth Beaded Lap.

Had the Tix560 for a year now. 18.5k with wide angle. Just updated the calibration. Great camera but I am selling and again upgrading. Will sell for 12k. Contact info is available at www.thebuildingconsultant.com

I too need to get back in. Been a very busy year in my consulting practice.

If it was built in 2000 then it is 16 years old. We in Iowa have a 15 statute. If there is damage due to a construction in this time, then you might have a case. What damage do you have on your home, where is it leaking?

Robsha Thanks for the additional info. Too much time has passed to do anything. as I said in my state it's 15 years but even that has passed in your situation. Also here it does not matter that you are one of the successive owners, you could be the 10th owner and still have recourse as long as the time was right. You best course of action is to do the repairs and corrections. Do you have anyone you trust that could do an in-depth review and analysis of your house on the other areas that are not yet corrected, it may surprise you what you find? To be fair I look at many houses that do not have the windows flashed properly and they do not have problems yet but it is only a matter of time, in most cases.

How old is the house. Most states have a 10 year statute of repose for construction defect damages, 15 in my state. If you just had it fixed and did't document the damages you probably would have a tough time in presenting a case. If it was done wrong on one side then it is probably done wrong on all. The problem may appear later if it hasn't already on the other sides of the home. Here is an article hat might be somewhat pertinent to you Download Attachment: Common siding Failures wc_JLC_Siding_L.pdf 1657.47 KB

Kurt I do mostly water intrusion and construction defects investigations these days. I am also doing consulting on a couple of big projects that are new construction. These are 4 story wood framed buildings one with Zip and one with Tyvek. We have been doing testing on the Zip and guess what... We are going to have an 80k SF building that has zip on it, and they are putting on a Tyvek rain coat. The testing revealed some things that are not good. More to come on this. I am now getting feedback on three other projects around the country experiencing similar problems. You got my number, give me a call and I will fill you in if you want.

look up my contact inf on my website and give me a call.Tonight if you wish

What does the exterior elevation views of the home look like? How do you know the product was wet? Did you measure the MC in any way? How was the product stored onsite and did it get rain on it? Are you saying it showed up to the site wet? When I am doing an investigation on product failure I have to answer these question and more, so this is a start. Do you have pictures of before and during the project?

Kiel I think you are zone 7 so my premise would be odd for you, never mind. Here in zone 5 we see all sorts of crazy things.

I have seen some of this staining before when the WRB was left off and moisture got behind the siding. We have had it at the top of the wall when there are humidity issues in the home in the bathroom areas. this has in my experience been a cold weather problem with high indoor humidity and a not very well sealed wall envelope. The air moves from warm to cold and wet to dry. Warm indoor dry air is wetter than exterior cold wet air, the vapor pressure is outward in the winter. In an area such as a bathroom where the exterior wall is not sealed well, this can be an area prone to moisture forming on the wall under the siding and running out the laps of the siding. Sounds crazy but I have been called to look at several of these occurrences in the last couple of years. What weather zone are you in?

Is there a WRB applied under the siding? If so what brand, if you can tell.

Marc Just sent you a text

Mike, I just sent you an email. I realize this is a thread that is aging but I do have best practices from Aug 08 Actually I don't know that I would call it best practices but a precurser to that type of installation manual. It was a departure from the green sheets installation and a little closer to what they now call "Best Practice" Email me if you want it. I do have quite the collection dating back to Jan 98. Older than that is tough to come by, the internet was not the place it is now, back than, Al hadn't performed his magic at that early date:)

John, It's not all that tough. Here is what they can expect. Click to Enlarge 96.87 KB

Sending Back The Tix520 and upgrading to the Tix560

John Just looking through this old post. Is this info still current or have you changed your method of dictation?

Erby I and many others have said the problems with AMSV is going to make the EIFS problems in this country look like a drop in the bucket. I do a lot of SV inspections for the relocation market and of the last 400 I have done I have not found one that has all of the details correct. Not all have problems nor are they all going to but doing it right sure manages your risk as a builder. Currently I have five clients in my area that are experiencing water intrusion and rotting of the structure to some extent. The lack of a properly integrated kick-out flashing is the biggest problem I see. Most of the assemblies are not properly drained at the base so moisture stores up and floods the assembly and eventually works it way into the interstitial wall cavity. These systems can be extremely protected with the use of a drainable membrane applied directly over the WRB before the lath and scratch. The cost of this membrane and accessories installed is less the two bucks per SF. The cost to remediate is 50 to 60 buck per SF. The kick-out in your picture does not look the best. I will bet over time it proves to not work. Come check out my session this year at ASHI http://www.homeinspector.org/files/Insp ... Veneer.pdf

Just Sold my FLIR T420 and got a Fluke Tix520 in my hands. Pretty nice camera but I think the Ti560 is probably a little better. Here are a couple of pictures. This one also has the super resolution option available Click to Enlarge 28.61 KB Click to Enlarge 27.36 KB