Brian G

The enclosure of an electrical panel is supposed to be bonded to the neutral bar (except for subpanels, bonded to the equipment ground bar), but not all are shipped that way. Some come with the familiar green screw, some have that little metal pigtail thingy, some have something else (espescially older ones). If I can't see how it's bonded I'll check continuity between the enclosure and the neutral bar with the Ohm setting, just to be sure. I've found a handful that just weren't bonded. You can also use it to make sure the neutral bar and equipment ground bar aren't bonded in a subpanel, if you're not sure. Brian G. Bond...Electrical Bond, At Your Service Sir

Mr. Kibbel, I'll be damned, welcome the discussion. I visited your site months ago and filed it away in my brain (somewhat risky, yes). I was thinking of emailing you to ask that same question, and one other. Since you're here... Does your organization have anything similar to a candidate program? I'm not looking to do anything but gain access to historically experienced inspectors like yourself, I don't need for my name to appear anywhere. You guys do have a members forum, right? The value of the information exchanged in these wandering threads is tremendous, but would be even more so in your field. Brian G. If Not, Tell Me a Pretty Lie That Won't Crush My Hopes

I have a nice little digital Sperry I got for $60. I use the amp side in the summer to check amp draws on condensers against the listed RLA, for a little CYA. I also use the OHM range when I can't tell for sure if a panel is bonded. Brian G.

The question of how much text is too much is a quandry. People like graphics and bullet-point stuff alright, but one of the most common complaints I've heard about small business sites in general is "not much content". I have 29 pages (some long, some short), and I've had a handful of clients call and tell me they've read them all. I think I'm going to go back and re-design my home page to be a little more "short attention span friendly", but I'm also planning to add 4 or 5 more new pages. It's a smorgasbord, eat a little or eat a lot. Brian G. Serve It Up!

Thanks Mike, This has always been a part of the long-term plan for me, but it's hard to get it off the back burner when you're just trying to make it. Developing a historic speciality makes tremendous economic sense here, and it's wide open for the taking. I have a few under my belt already, but I need to build-up a lot more in-depth knowledge. I can just imagine what kind of fees I could charge when one of these Great White Behemoths is gonna move! [:-dopey] Brian G. Find Ways to NOT Compete [:-mischievous]

I have to admit, I don't see the relevance either. If a location needs one now, it needs one. Brian G. What It Is?

Mike, Do you know of any good books on the subject of historic building techniques? Something that starts from the basics, with enough graphics to make things clear? I'm in a town (and an entire local area) with a disproportionate number of these properties, but I'm really not that familiar with what they did back in the day, and how and why they did it. I'll settle for a source of any such books, if you've got one. Brian G.

Gracias Mr. Mc, I knew that didn't look right. They could have easily piped it down to the garage floor, but they worked it way down a wall to the exterior. It is permissable to empty onto a concrete garage floor isn't it (6" above the floor)? All I can find is "a safe place of disposal", but it also says to keep the pipe as short as possible. I've seen it both ways, but I kinda like the garage floor because you would notice if it started leaking or discharging. I'm not sure there is a "safe" place to vent scalding hot water and steam under pressure. Brian G.

I've seen posts before about how many 90's and / or 45's are allowed in relief valve piping, but the info is hiding in one of the many dark corners of my brain. Does anyone know it off the top of their head? I just looked at one with five 90's and one 45. Seems like too much. Brian G. Rube Goldberg relief piping?

More great American ingenuity! Check out the bleed-through on the tape from the felt. Wonder how long that would hold? Brian G. Dear Hunter

Ellen my dear, I think you mat have posted the wrong photos, I don't see any ducts, felt paper, or red paint. Brian G.

By the book, 1 inch clearance needed. Real world, it depends. The farther away from the furnace you get the less heat there is coming through the walls of the pipe (generally). How long has it been there? Any signs the PVC has been hot? Brian G.

Thanks Chad, good little article. I guess I'll stick to my standard recommendation, but I think I'm gonna start leaning on the polyurethane more....good stuff. Brian G. Caulkin' Fool

Interesting, I appreciate the effort Douglas. Of course we were originally discussing PVC, a very different animal from rigid. If you ever find yourself at an NEC panel / board meeting where these underground services are being discussed, think of me and recommend a weatherhead and drip loop requirement for the next edition. Not being able to keep condensation and minor leaks out is no excuse for throwing the door wide open and inviting the rain in. Take a few of the photos we've seen, show them what happens to the attached equipment in some cases. Brian G. Eternal Hard-head