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mjr6550

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Everything posted by mjr6550

  1. mjr6550
    I agree with Jim about the disposer. That cannot be on the small appliance circuit. The MW should not be (IMO), but I'm not certain whether it is permitted. I'd have to look that up.
  2. mjr6550
    That's a very interesting water heater. 29 gallon/90 gallon FHR with 61 GPH @ 90 deg rise. <18" diameter. That's some serious performance in a tiny package. And, it's rated potable and space heating. Wow. These are relatively new and pretty expensive, but you get good efficiency without some of the problems of tankless water heaters. I have read some complaints that incoming cold water can dilute the tank temperature and give you less hot water than the specs claim. I talked a neighbor into buying one instead of a 75 gallon with a typical recovery rate. I never get around to asking how they like it (they still talk to me though).
  3. mjr6550
    That's a new one for me.
  4. mjr6550
    You are correct where there is a wall within 8 feet. I really never see that case since almost every B-vent I see is in a sloped roof, where the height is based upon roof slope. Unlike fan assisted furnaces that still rely on chimney draft, all of the fan assisted water heaters I see are positive pressure and should not vent to a B-vent.
  5. mjr6550
    Mid 1980's fuse panel? That is not common. CEB? Assuming the fuses are properly sized they are safer than circuit breakers. If you did want to get rid of the fuses, you need to replace the panel. There are very few cases where panels can be upgraded.
  6. mjr6550
    I have bought, used, or seen many of those materials in recent years and have never seen anything close to what you are describing. Dimensional lumber has relatively close tolerances to meet standards. Whether the lumber warps as it dries is another story.
  7. mjr6550

    Kibbel

    mjr6550 replied to kurt's topic in Exteriors Forum

    I might think that if I saw a lot of damage, but not if just in a couple areas.
  8. mjr6550
    Looks like a lot of old patched stucco that I see. The last photo looks like a thin patched area that is delaminating. I would not be very concerned, but would indicate that the stucco is in fair to poor condition and will need above average repairs over time or alterations (i.e. new siding). Whether there is greater concern in CA (especially if the building is masonry) is something I cannot answer.
  9. mjr6550
    There is no 2 foot within 8 foot rule. 2/10 for chimneys. B-vents have different requirements. Also, fan assisted water heaters have requirements specified by the manufacturer. I have never seen one vented to a B-vent and never saw instructions that specified venting to a B-vent.
  10. mjr6550
    ???????????
  11. mjr6550
    May not be relevant, but I don't believe that FHA counts a room as a bedroom when you have to go though another bedroom to access it.
  12. mjr6550
    If the 1/4 plywood has any give to it at any area I would remove it. Anything not glued down is suspect. I generally like to get down to the original sub-flooring anyway.
  13. mjr6550
    Steam cleaning!
  14. mjr6550
    I could really understand anything. That's why I looked at the Website, which only made it worse.
  15. mjr6550
    I tried looking at Megaflo's website to get some idea what the OP is talking about, but that site is one of the worst I have seen. I'd suggest a plumber.
  16. mjr6550
    We see that often at the inner wythe of old houses. They are often called salmon brick. Much softer since they were not fired as much as better brick. As long as they are not falling apart they should last a long time. If the mortar joints deteriorate then they should be repointed with a soft mortar.
  17. mjr6550
    Jersey would outlaw breathing if they could (or at least tax it).
  18. mjr6550
    Looks a bit unusual, but not necessarily wrong. The only way to know for sure is to climb over there and inspect it. If the roof looks fine from outside, then probably not much of an issue.
  19. mjr6550
    I think peaking and tenting are used to indicate that the flooring lifted off the floor. I think of buckling like cupping. Is that as clear as mud?
  20. mjr6550
    I agree with much of that. But newer houses burn much faster than they used to. Within the past two years in my area two houses burned to the ground even though the owners were home and the fire department responded pretty quick. I did some reading about this and found that fires reach flashover much faster now. Also, virtually nobody dies in a house that has fire sprinklers. Leave out a whirlpool bathtub and maybe a few square feet and the cost would be covered. Well, not with union labor costs.
  21. mjr6550
    It appears to me that they varied the location of the rafter braces according to where partition walls are located. I'm not sure that I understand your point.
  22. mjr6550
    I thought that I heard that AFCI breakers have been used in Europe for many years. I could be totally wrong about that. Regardless, it seem like a good safety improvement. Time will tell. Builders can pass along the cost, but as house prices increase they are concerned about buyers being priced out of the market. PA, and I'm sure many other states, did not adopt the requirements for fire sprinklers in residential construction.
  23. mjr6550
    I was in Whitley County, Indiana on Wednesday to look over a new house my nephew is buying. I thought it was odd that the receptacles were not tamper resistant and there were no AFCI breakers. I looked up the local code and they are not required. Nice way for builders to save a few bucks. Anyone else seeing this in new construction? I did not find much wrong, but primer was not used on the furnace vent piping, and one joint in the attic had completely separated.
  24. mjr6550
    The company filed a trademark for that logo in 1948 and stated that it was used in commerce since 1935. They first manufactured electric water heaters in 1914. They apparently moved to Portland in 1922. There were in business at least into the late 1960's.
  25. mjr6550
    I agree with Kurt. Cast stone coated with something. Looks like late 1800's to early 1900's. At that time the quality of Portland cement varied widely. Although I am not fond of calling for further evaluation, this is a case where if they want to think about buying this thing I would recommend that they consult with a very experienced contractor or architect with a background in historic masonry restoration. Or, wire lath and stucco over the whole building will buy them 10-20 years (maybe more) and then maybe the whole thing falls apart (I'm not recommending this as an option, its just what many people would do around here).
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