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mjr6550

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Everything posted by mjr6550

  1. mjr6550
    Hay, I'm an engineer and I understand them. Of course, that is because I have performed about 10,000 home inspections. Many of these old houses have stone walls-very heavy structures. In some areas they were built on fill. The foundation walls settle significantly, but the piers supporting the floor systems settle far less. Click to Enlarge 45.14 KB Click to Enlarge 36.11 KB
  2. mjr6550
    The sloped floor is due to settlement. Over 6 inches at some areas. I inspected it 8 years ago also. Not much change.
  3. mjr6550
    The one I saw today is not awesome, but a classic old bathroom. Click to Enlarge 40.33 KB The floors slope a bit though. Click to Enlarge 35.13 KB
  4. mjr6550
    Here are a couple more photos showing the tile. Click to Enlarge 34.2 KB Click to Enlarge 69.68 KB
  5. mjr6550
    A 1913 house. That stonework was just about perfect. Click to Enlarge 47.97 KB Click to Enlarge 54.47 KB Click to Enlarge 117.13 KB Click to Enlarge 51.38 KB Click to Enlarge 39.64 KB Click to Enlarge 53.21 KB
  6. mjr6550
    Are they still using balloon framing in your area too? How about that new cement? I think its called Portland.
  7. mjr6550
    At least they disclosed it. I didn't when I sold my last house.
  8. mjr6550
    Yes, they all do. The stains are clearer in person and do not show up as well in the pictures. I was kidding.
  9. mjr6550
    Just checking-do all your photos have the same stains?
  10. mjr6550
    It looks similar to what is sometimes done when a crawl space is adjacent to a basement. They stop the footing short of the overdig and then bridge the foundation wall over the opening. I think I recall seeing this done when connecting interior and exterior drainage systems with a pipe passing through the footing. Normally the slab would be poured high enough to cover the opening.
  11. mjr6550
    I can think of a few ways. At the bottom, the easiest think to do would be to place blocking between the column and the adjacent studs. Then lag bolt a 2x to each side of the studs and sill. That would prevent movement in both directions (not that movement is likely to occur). For the pier, if edge distances permitted a wood block could be anchored to the top of the pier with masonry anchors and then the beam could be attached to the block with lag bolts. it would not even be necessary to drill through the flanges. Placing the bolts adjacent to the flanges with fender washers overhanging the flanges would be fine.
  12. mjr6550
    As a side note, I would tell them that the TPR valve is not properly installed.
  13. mjr6550
    Cotswold Eclectic?
  14. mjr6550
    I had not looked at the photos. Pocket rot may not be the correct term, but it is widely used. I don't use the term in reports, but do tend to use it at times in conversation. I disagree about deterioration at bearing ends rarely being an issue when timber are hewn down to hardwood. I find it quite often.
  15. mjr6550
    Check carefully for pocket rot. It is very common and often missed if you do not probe the ends of the joists where they enter the foundation walls. Old timber joists are wide and shallow. If there is much damage or deterioration that reduces the depth the strength decreases significantly. Expect quite a bit of deflection. I see them often and often they are fine (except the pocket rot). When they are too weak sistering on both sides or reducing the span by adding a center beam or stud wall are options.
  16. mjr6550
    I'm not sure if that is addressed in typical codes, but I would comment about the potential hazard.
  17. mjr6550
    M.N. CM60 matches York numbers from the late 60's to early 70's. I tried to rear the label and it looked like maybe CM90. I did not see that model listed. The rated amperage is high so it is a large inefficient unit.
  18. mjr6550
    They built houses 10 years ago with load-bearing masonry walls? I have not seen that around here since about the 1960's.
  19. mjr6550
    I have seen hundreds of those old York units. They lasted a long time. I don't recall seeing units with two fans.
  20. mjr6550
    Any photos of the top side?
  21. mjr6550
    Where I see things like that the steam heat or whatever they have for heat typically came later.
  22. mjr6550
    It is hard to say from the photos, but if it is delaminating it does not look bad. Epoxy injection and a good breathable paint mat get them another 50 years.
  23. mjr6550
    I have seen a few of them and recall seeing one with a stove still in place. I suppose if the chimney did not pass through that room they ran the stove pipe through the ceiling and connected to the chimney in the attic.
  24. mjr6550
    Back when this was built we had not state code. Most areas followed BOCA or CABO. Very few areas made amendments to codes, unless it was to make them less restrictive.
  25. mjr6550
    I saw this yesterday in a modular house. Two layers of gypsum board at the band joists and the center beam. I assume it is for fire-stopping, but have never seen this before. Any idea as to why it was used? The band joist is a double 2x10, as is the beam. Click to Enlarge 39.86 KB Click to Enlarge 50.02 KB
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