mjr6550

The support for the rafters is wrong even if they had not rotated and were properly attached. From a structural standpoint that is about the same as notching the rafters about 50% at the ends. They will probably split.

Now that is some ugly work. The model is not great, but is much better. Your recourse is to tell them you are not satisfied and want it replaced. It is unprofessional workmanship.

It is not a problem. Park a car there and you will forget about it.

I would not be too worried about that crack, but it is wide for a shrinkage crack, unless the wall is very long.

So masonry is not waterproof? Who knew?

I would question whether you would need a commercial dehumidifier with the sealed crawl space. Possible condition it with a little air from the HVAC. The crack is wide for a typical shrinkage crack. With brick outside it is possible that the crack developed due to expansion of the brick. Brick absorbs moisture and expands. Block shrinks as it cures. Not sure why you have cracks in the soil near the crack in the wall.

I got called today by an agent who has a client buying a house in the group next to the two that collapsed. They are concerned about their house. The agent talked to the building inspector. The inspector said the houses collapsed because the bracing was not installed yet. Apparently I were going to install the bracing within the next few days. Expensive lesson.

Bill, They are two different houses in the same development? I assume gypsum shalfwall liners, but I don't see them. Maybe no bracing along the party walls.

I mentioned the house because you can acclimate the flooring to the house, but if the house has a high RH you can have the same problem. There is a lot of moisture in a house during construction.

I agree with you. Some shrinkage during the winter would be normal, but if it is significant the wood or the house were not dry enough when the flooring was installed. This can be a bigger problem when the flooring is wide.

Jim's comments made me look at the photo again. I looked at a larger image and it looks like the front inside panel is rusted through. That usually means that the combustion chamber liner/heat shields or the furnace cement between boiler sections have failed and water vapor from combustion is saturating the insulation. May be time for a new boiler.

I'm looking for comments regarding the following response from a chimney sweep based on these photos. "This appears to be an unlisted stove using stove pipe either as a first flue connector or as a liner. This is not a system that we would service, as it does not appear code compliant and could be a potential fire hazard." Click to Enlarge 56.62 KB Click to Enlarge 34.94 KB Click to Enlarge 44.24 KB

I was walking around my neighborhood a few months ago and saw a large secation of siding that was buckled at least that much. I don't think there were any Windows on that wall or at the adjacent house. Right below the damaged area was a storage shed. I assumed the damage was due to heat radiating from the roof.

I think it is rotated 90 degrees from the proper orientation, and not enough vertical distance above the boiler before running horizontal.

Thanks Mike, that is what I was looking for. I had seen that link. Your condition was a bit different. I did rear that UV can turn PVC brown. Apparently they put titanium dioxide or something like that in the PVC to prevent this. In that case maybe the pipe was not manufactured properly and one side was exposed for a while.

Within the past several months (or more?) someone posted on one of the HI forums regarding discolored vent pipe at a water heater or maybe it was a furnace/boiler. I searched a bit and could not find it. I saw the same condition yesterday. I did a little searching in the net and found a few references to this condition, usually along with failed joints. It does not seem to be a very common problem, but could be a deadly issue. I'm looking for any feedback regarding causes/frequency. BTW, the vents extended vertically up through the roof. Maybe 25 feet long. The pipe was not discolored in the attic area. Both water heaters were replaced within the past year, so sections right at the water heaters may have been replaced. The original installation is 15 years old. The water heaters are in a restaurant and may get heavy use. I felt a vent pipe while running and it felt pretty warm, but I don't usually touch vents so I'm not sure how unusual this is. I did not measure the temperature. Click to Enlarge 45.16 KB Click to Enlarge 35.86 KB

Bundling/attachment Click to Enlarge 42.86 KB Click to Enlarge 39.42 KB Improper wiring? Click to Enlarge 46.54 KB

I read that T&G manufacturing equipment was in use in mid 1880s.

The joist photos are just for interest. They are common around here, but I'm sure not everywhere. Date stone on house says 1854. The flooring is my question. I see a lot of old flooring-some square edge and some ship lap. Maybe I have not paid attention, but I can't recall seeing tongue and groove of like this. I'm thinking that it was hand planed. If it is original it would predate commercial T&G flooring. Click to Enlarge 40.96 KB Click to Enlarge 41.21 KB Click to Enlarge 40.26 KB Click to Enlarge 49.24 KB Click to Enlarge 41.76 KB Click to Enlarge 44.35 KB

I am also thinking stress cracks.

I never got a chance to guess. Cast iron tree trunk for dogs.

If there is a good layer of crushed Stone under the slab that shouldact as a reservoir when the water coming in exceeds the pump capacity. I find a lot of shallow pits that allow water to accumulate in the crushed stone.

I am looking at the photo on my phone. I see one seam and that looks like built up asphalt roofing. In my area you can typically see the seams. 18 in for two ply, 12 in. For 3 ply and 9 in. for 4 ply. When they have a heavy silver or asphalt flood coat it can be hard to see all of the seams.

Never saw it or heard of it happening. Also very unlikely due to the truss design. But I can't say that it is impossible.

Since you cannot find anything online, I assume it is not some type of industry standard inspection. In that case, why not ask them to clarify what they want? Why assume and find out they wanted something more or less than you thought?