mjr6550

Try contacting the manufacturer. They may be able to explain the red and should be able to provide you with the orifice sizes to check whether they are correct.

No. B-vent is only rated for gas. I assume the cap is aluminum, which is used for b-vents. L-vents are used for oil. L-vents are stainless steel. I think the aluminum would corrode. I don't know how long it would take to corrode.

Maybe its the photo, but the shorter units appears to be wider. Also, are you sure they are both 13 SEER?

I believe that older installation instructions for vinyl siding do not require a wrb behind the siding. I recall looking at this a while ago and seeing the requirement for a wrb a bit before it was required by the IRC (if I recall correctly). This was standard practice in my area for close to 20 years with OSB and there has generally not been a lot of problems. Whole different story with stucco.

The link below is a catalog with that boiler. The catalog is from 1934. Of course, old boilers were manufactured for many years with few changes. https://ia601202.us.archive.org/17/item ... iators.pdf

In my area the lack of an wrb behind vinyl was standard until required by the IRC. My house was built that way in 1990 (with OSB). Over the years I have removed much of the siding when I replaced windows. I only found minimal deterioration below one window. I think this installation generally performs well because the wall sheathing can dry quickly.

Concrete push piers are used in some areas like Texas, but not widely throughout the country. I am assuming that you are talking about steel push piers. The relatively cost is about the same as helical piers. I have used both. Helical piers are a problem in rocky soil. On one job a contractor bent a 1/2" thick steel helix 90 degrees when he hit a rock. Sometimes installation is difficult or impossible. When they go in easy they are usually much faster to install. The load rating is related to installation torque. You can get false readings from rocks. Push piers often can push through rocks (or push them out of the way). Since you are reacting against the foundation the load rating can be measured and is more certain. I have usually relied upon the contractors preference. I would ask them why they would choice one over another for the given job.

A believe that many years ago the National Fuel Gas Code stated that the shut-off valve had to be within 6 feet of an appliance, but did not mention being in the same room. The IRC says it must be in the same room, but there seems to be an exception for gas fireplace logs. The IRC states the valve can be in a remote location if it is accessible. I don't understand the OPs concern about lighting the log. I'm assuming we are talking about a gas log and not a fire starter. I've never seen a modern gas log that does not have a built-in control valve. As to the zero sight clearance, if at all possible to move things to do a proper inspection. If you can't see it then you can't inspect it.

Another thing to look at is whether the chimney flue extends below the flue connector. That allows some condensation to collect at the bottom and evaporate when the flue is hot. Sometimes that space gets filled with soot or debris.

Kurt, Years ago I had a license in PA. Besides taking tests, continuing education, and fees, I had to have general liability insurnace to do pestiside application, even though I did not do applications. For me it was not worth the hassle.

I am a structural engineer and home inspector. Its hard to say too much without seeing the overall picture. Grading is probably a big part of the cause. The block walls are typically more porous than the concrete walls and when water gets into the block cores it sits there. The concrete is probably a very low strength mix. It the walls are plumb and have not bowed along their length the walls are probably reasonably sound because it appears that the concrete wall is a bit wider than the block wall so the block wall still appears to be sitting on a stable base. If this is not what I am seeing and the concrete below the block is deteriorated that would not be good. Patching deteriorated concrete is typically not easy because nothing will stick to it. If you use wire lath on the inside to help adhere the patch then you will trap more water. It sounds like the grade level at about at the top of the concrete. that is good because there would be less pressure on the walls. You could have someone waterproof the exterior side of the foundation walls from about grade level to somewhere below the joint between the block and concrete. Also, grade the surface away from the foundation at about 1 inch per foot for approximately 5 to 10 feet away from the walls. Grading should be done with a soil that has a high clay content. Topsoil or much can be placed on top once the grading is done.