mjr6550

I saw this today in a detached garage. Garage was probably built after 1907 and no later than 1920s. The water pipe coming up from the slab comes from the house. At the top left a pipe would have been connected with a union. Edit: I realized that I posted one photo twice. I added a different photo. Still looking for an answer. Click to Enlarge 43.36 KB Click to Enlarge 35.36 KB Click to Enlarge 52.52 KB

It is hard to judge movement from photos. The height of the wall, the thickness, soil conditions, and grading are all important. Horizontal cracks typically indicate that the wall was over-stressed at some time. It a judgement call as to whether the wall will move further or not.

Here is another interesting link: http://www.electrical-forensics.com/Mot ... mFans.html

I second John's answer.

I think that I am usually pretty good at understanding codes, but venting sometimes confuses me. I am evaluating a bathroom renovation that also included installation of a stacking washer/dryer. I know some issues are wrong, but I am unsure about venting. The washer and bathroom basin share a common drain pipe, which drains into a stack that also is used for the toilet. IRC P3109.2 say every fixture drain shall connect separately to the waste stack and that the stack cannot receive waste from toilets. The drain pipe is also 1-1/2" and 2" is the minimum for the washer drain. So I know the installation is wrong. Assuming that installed a separate drain (correct size) for each fixture and the traps were within the allowable distance from the stack as specified in Table P3105.1 (i.e. 1-1/2"-6 feet; 2"-8 feet) this would still be wrong because the stack is used to drain a toilet? Would it be correct if a vent was installed in each drain line and tied back into the stack? I am thinking about this from the standpoint that there would be another bathroom on a floor above this bathroom. In reality, the building is a multi-story condo so the IPC would really apply. I just want to wrap my head around the IRC requirements before venturing into the IPC, which usually confuses me even more. Click to Enlarge 54.91 KB Click to Enlarge 49.57 KB Click to Enlarge 43.68 KB

As others have said, it is cedar siding. I never knew what it was called and almost never see it. The only reason I am familiar with it is when I was young a neighbor had this on his house. Seemed like every couple years he was restaining it.

I've always thought that you cannot determine if there is an open ground using a three-prong tester.

Second photo. For some reason I could not add the second photo to the first post. Click to Enlarge 57.47 KB

I saw something today that I had not seen before. 80% furnace vented to an exterior masonry chimney with a clay liner. Also venting a water heater. That part is not unusual. The chimney connector has a built-in damper and an opening to allow dilution air to enter the chimney. The instructions state that this allows venting of the furnace without lining the chimney. Of course, the venting kit is made by Lennox and is listed for use with several models of furnaces. The furnace that was installed is an Aire-flo (there are or were owned by Lennox), but the model numbers do not match. So unless the manufacturer says otherwise, it is still wrong, but interesting to know that this kit exists. Click to Enlarge 91.2 KB Click to Enlarge 57.47 KB

Around here they have always been called cultured marble. I recall reading the the manufacturer's association was changing the name. Maybe we are supposed to call it cast polymer: International Cast Polymer Alliance (ICPA)

The first number in the SN is the last digit of the year. They switched to R-410 refrigerant in 2006 and never used R-22 and R-410 at the same time. If I could read the label properly it looked like R-410, which would make that 2011. Does that seem correct?

I don't recall standards for this, but on larger size furnaces at least some manufacturers require that return air plenums enter from both sides of the furnace. ACCA recommends a maximum velocity of 300 FPM at filter grills (not exactly the same thing). That works out to 833 CFM for a 16x25 filter. That is about 2 tons. That velocity may be low due to noise concerns or because the grille restricts airflow. So 3 tons seems about the right limit for a 16x25 filter. However, I don't recall ever calling this a defect.

It appears to be 3 tons. That sound does not look like 3900 sf. By three floors, I assume you are including the basement. Even if you take 1/3 of the SF away 3 tons is small, unless the house is very energy efficient.

I have heard of fires occurring because the joist between the Heatilator throat area and the chimney flue liner was not properly sealed. Also, if the Heatilator vents are blocked the firebox can overheat. Clearance to combustibles can also be a problem. The fire may have started at or near the fireplace and traveled up into the attic.

I just checked my numbers from November when I committed to the purchase. I forgot that I missed the deadline to get $1.15 per watt from NYSERDA, my actual rebate was $1.00 per watt. Rough numbers: System including pole/ barn mount= 26,575 NYSERDA rebate watts x 1.00 7,100 Fed Credit 35% 9,301 NYS Rebate 30% 7,973 System net 2,201 Wow, New York is generous. And with numbers that good the majority of homeowners probably have not even looked into adding systems. I am jealous.

Chad, I am all for PV systems, but I don't understand your ROI. At an average of 990 KWH per month at 14 cents a KWH aren't you paying about $1663 a year? It seems like the payback would be longer, unless you are generating quite a bit of excess power. And with excess power, you are only credited with the generation cost, not distribution cost, etc. I would be interested maybe on my next house. Current house has hip roof and front faces south. Wife does not like look or panels; we are not planning on staying here too much longer; PA has poor/no? credits.

Any photos? They became ERC International in 1999, so the label may help. On boilers I look at dates on gas valves pressure relief valve, pressure regulating valves, circulator pumps, controls, etc. to confirm age.

I thought so. So the builder thinks its necessary to mortar the shingles?

I think one reason for that is the masons of recent years do not butter the ends of the bricks. The mortar is often only near the face of the wall at end joints.

Looks like an oldie. How old is the house? Later GE furnaces have a 9 digit SN and the third from the end in the last digit of the year. The 9 digits are all run together. If that used a similar code then 1973, 1963, 1953 could be possibilities. Its hard to see details in that photo, but 1973 seems too new. The MN does not match anything in the 1967 to 1993 Carrier Blue Book, so earlier than that is likely. I'm not looking at the photo now, but I think under gas type is said OPT-NAT. Optional? Could be from the transition period from mixed or manufactured gas (1950s-60s at the late end).

When I have seen this done (which is not much around here, because brick over frame is typically only used on a front wall) the brick was bearing on a steel beam. I cannot imagine that proper flashing is present. What is the stuff at the junction of the roof and wall?

He'll be very defensive and argumentative if he's like most builders here. Sometimes I wonder if I should take the ICC exam and register with the state as a 3rd party code inspector. That'll give me more leverage when buyers of new construction homes ask for help. I'd up my fees to pay for all the CE requirements that 3rd parties need to have. I just don't know if I would want all the new enemies I'll make. The existing 3rd parties here are a joke. Builders buy them. Marc I have the ICC certifications for Electric, Plumbing, Building, and Mechanical. That means I am certified by ICC. For me that is enough to argue with a builder (who probably never rear a code book). I don't see the need to register with the state unless you plan on performing code inspections. Around here I don't think private code inspectors are paid much money (I'm referring to employees of private code inspection agencies).

It always helps to know when the cracks occurred. If they are relatively new, this could be a concern since it looks like the foundation may be settling. If the cracks have been there 10 years, then I am not too concerned. If you do not know, then neatly patch the cracks with mortar and see what happens over time.

I wonder how much trouble you can get into by stealing from (er.. performing free demolition services on) abandoned houses?

With older thermostats (i.e. mercury switches) it typically takes about a 2 degree difference to bring on the backup heat. To test in the heat pump mode I turn off the thermostat, remove the cover, set the temp so only the top switch is on, then turn the thermostat to the heap pump mode. Then to keep it only running on heat pump I sometimes have to tweak the setting a bit. On digital thermostats there is about a 1 degree spread. Raise the temp more than one degree above the room temp and the backup will come on (unless there is an outside thermostat to override this). That is the common setup around here, which I think is about what Bill said.