mjr6550

I thought they recalled Tendura, or took it off the market. I saw a few covered porches with Tendura and were buckled very bad.

A few years or so ago I thought that the manufacturers made a big deal out of "purple is the new green". I have not looked in stores recently, but when I have seen unfinished drywall in wet areas it has been purple.

what is wrong with my math? I never got a value that low. So how many cables would that be? Every rafter? I did not look at the formulas you used. I used tables to get the numbers. If you want to use a formula it is: 1/4 times total roof load times the inverse of the roof pitch In this case: .25x[2feetx205/12x(10+20)]x12/4=769 pounds The 10 is a typical dead load (so engineers use 12, but for a low slope roof 10 is fine). The 20 is the minimum roof live load. In most parts of the country this would be a snow load of 30 psf or more, but in FL I assume no snow load. 20 psf is the minimum live load per code. The 2 is for 24 inches o.c. This assumes a tie at every pair of rafters. With relatively low pitch roofs the forces are pretty high. Its hard enough to deal with that force. If you put toes every 4 feet the load would be doubled.

The codes I'm familiar with generally require treated wood or decay resistant wood for decks, regardless of whether it is at or near the ground.

Directly onto the brick. No. On wire lath attached to the brick. Maybe. If the mortar joints are sound enough to hold lath fasteners. A better approach may be to install lath on pressure treated furring strips. I suggest you contact the Brick Industry Association (they may have changed the name) or the Portland Cement Association and see if they have any publications or technical advice on this. Some contractors are willing to do about anything and will tell you they have never had a problem doing it this way. You don't want to be the first (that you know of) to have a problem.

Your thrust per rafter is 765 pounds. The International Residential Code calls for 7 16d common nails per rafter. When designing with cable you would typically use a factor of safety of 10, so the cable should be rated for an ultimate load of 7650 pounds. The connections are the problem.

The secret is that it is a crapshoot. Some go bad in a year and some last 20. I drained my last one on a regular basis and it lasted 9 year. My present one is 15 year old and was never drained.

Just recently did two new construction houses with wall ovens. They had disconnect boxes for the ovens (which I never saw before), and they were mounted in the back of the cabinet above the ovens. Does not mean it is correct, because electrical inspectors around here will put a sticker on just about anything, otherwise the electrician will just give the work to another inspection agency.

I have seen many with wafer breakers. It can be fun trying to get the cover back on.

Throw a piece of OSB on the ground and let it lay there for a couple years and it may not rot (if it dries out after being wet). Put the same piece in a wall behind badly installed stucco and you end up with mulch.

It the wood remained wet I think some deterioration could occur within months. If it dried fairly quickly it could take years.

Are you including vinyl or aluminum clad windows when you say they rot within 15 years. I have seen some that have, but certainty not most. Around here there are many clad Andersen and Pella windows that are 30 year old with no rot. As for fiberglass, I have read good things about them, but in 29 years I cannot recall seeing any. I generally hate vinyl windows, but there are some that are ok.

I have seen a few HIs question gas piping near heat sources. Think about gas piping to gas logs and gas piping to burners. They are hot areas. Gas inside of a pipe cannot explode or ignite from heat.

I think $30 to $35/sf works pretty good for a lot of the estimates I have seen. And when you have sheathing/framing damage or need to remove landscaping, patios, decks, etc. I have seen quite a few that are probably up into the $57 range.

Looks too dark. I would have said it could be stain from staining hardwood flooring, but it would not be sticky.

I just got an approximate estimate from a good remediation contractor for replacement of stucco on frame on an addition with maybe about 25% more area than that. Complete tear off and replace with no allowance for damage. $25 to 30K. Remediation of single houses here is typically running between $100k to 200K. All are frame construction, usually 1990 to about 2006.

What does it taste like?

I was going to guess around 60k, but since Welmoed guessed that, I go with 65k.

Sounds pretty simple to me. Why didn't we think of that? Cheap, too. The gutters are already there, and landscaping that foot and a half wide alley, couldn't possibly cost that much. Simple? I think not. What about that technical stuff about a downspout being a vertical part of a roof gutter? My head hurts just trying to fathom such. . . Sounds like a canned response. Probably a program that searches for keywords and answers with useless irrelevant information.

Only clay drains out in the yard to the sewer. I suppose that is to support the drain cleaning contractors. Lead mains. Maybe the politicians having been drinking too much of the water. Most municipalities started to ban them by the 1920s.

1-1/4" minimum water supply and conduit for wiring. What other good ideas have the unions thought of? Must be $$$ to build a shack in Chicago.

How far below grade would you be near the house? What slope are you planning for the pipe? Why is the drain tile that far from the house. If you have to install that much pipe can you install drain tile closer? You may be able to install foam insulation board above the pipe at the area near the house.

Without notching for the beams the load on the bolts will exceed the allowable load-but it will not fall down. You are correct to call this out. The bolts at the spliced beam are also too close to the end of the beam.

Why would you need to access the controls when the door is closed? I see two of three of these a month. Even when the front of the dishwasher doesn't sit on the finish flooring, you can't really get to the controls and, even if you could, you can't see what's what anyway. They're designed to have the buttons pushed before the door is closed. I figured if you wanted to push cancel you wouldn't need to open the door and risk a potential leak by stopping the machine in mid wash cycle. Is that silly thinking? John, With newer dishwashers I often do not run a full cycle. As soon as you open the door it shuts off. I just open it enough to stop then wait a second or two, open it further and push cancel. Never have a problem with leaks. It seemed strange at first, but I see them all the time now.

How about a shorter window? Maybe an awning window.