Denray

Pulling out tile over greenboard. Will put Hardiebacker on. Is that unfaced insulation dark from moisture related issues? The wood seems to be fine. I see that there is paper faced insulation to the right, which is the garage side. Should all the insulation have a moisture barrier face on the shower side? I'm going to coat the Hardibacker with RedGuard, so it will be water proof. Wall is 22 yrs old. My house. Click to Enlarge 52.52 KB

Nice set of picture Mike. It's almost like you can learn stuff here.

I wasn't sure what you were talking about so googled an image. It seems to show the problem. Does the split face take on more water than a standard CMU? Click to Enlarge 7.59 KB

Our county building dept. head honcho said "no pass". 2 ft higher than anything within 10 ft horizontally is how he read it.

I don't usually measure stuff, but chimney boy was there and said it was not up to code because of the 10 2 deal. So I went back up and measured when he was still inside and .... Thanks for the reply John. Found a little deformation down inside. Around 12:45 on the circumference. Click to Enlarge 58.43?KB

2 feet down the distance to the wall is 10'2". But, does the eave above make it not work? Click to Enlarge 80.92 KB

Thanks guys!

I can't remember seeing mod bit laid out vertically on a low slope. Is that OK? Click to Enlarge 73.14 KB

Rob, It's at 6k feet and next to the lake. Still way dryer than here 3 miles from the sea. I get nose bleeds when visiting. Get a lot of snow there. That guys dad owned a major ski resort. He grew up liking and learning the business. He's always been learning all kinds of stuff. Helped design the first snow making equipment for resorts. Lived in that environment most of his life. Ended up running dad's resort. Now runs another one. Brainyack type. He had a better response than most homeowners would have. Seems like ice dams come from improper insulation nearby. There was no kickout at the end either. Easy to drip in behind it. But, still hanging in there. Good discussion.

And my friends response is: Tell your friends that none of you know what you're talking about. First the gray "water stains" on the Redwood are NOT! The wall you photographed faces south it weathers very fast from the sun. Painters over the years failed to re stain it next to the shingles. The sun and oxidation turned it gray. The construction of the roof as well as the rest of the house was done under my supervision and I was the architect . The construction was as follows bitchathane roofing sealant was applied to both the roof and the wall. 18" each direction of flashing at the roof wall seam. The redwood siding wall was intentionally applied full length with the Cedar Shakes(Jumbos)butted to the wall. As the woods involved were Redwood and Cedar there was no concern for deterioration as was evidenced by the key test. From an architectural point of view had the Redwood wall been gapped above the shingles and the flashing been exposed, the flashing would have needed to be in copper to be color and quality consistent with a multi million $ home. Ultimately it would have turned green. Lastly siding gapped with flashing regularly fails in snow country. Ice dams form on the flashing as it is colder these dams can grow to 2' and more. Water not only leaks into the house but freeze back can occur prying the siding from the wall not to mention the effect of snow creep.

Thank you everyone.

I saw like 10 houses nearby done the same way. Click to Enlarge 58.24 KB Nearby meaning up to 1 mile away. Epidemic problem?

I was recently visiting a friend who has way too much money. 7000 sq ft home at Tahoe and the wall siding comes down to the shingles. I saw many homes around with the same set up. Whether in snow country or not shouldn't there be a couple of inches of flashing showing there? I can see moisture stains on his siding, which is redwood. I pushed on it with my car key and it was still solid after 20 years. Click to Enlarge 33.22 KB

Thanks Douglas. That was a pretty good lecture from Joseph Lstiburek last Saturday, eh. And in the crawl space it's no big deal to have access to all of them from one entry?

Looked at a 1973 triplex today where the attic was continuous all the way down the three side by side units. How long has that not been allowed? It's the same in the crawl space.

When I did insurance claims work those were always getting ripped off by the wind on travel trailers. Their framing is made out of 2" balsa wood like material that if you spit on it rot follows. So fastening is difficult.

Getting ready for an exterior sink. Click to Enlarge 50.74 KB

The client nor I knew what it was. He said the bathtub would not drain correctly sometimes and this thing would make it work OK? It was just outside a crawl space and it didn't really seem like it was uphill to a city drain, but maybe it was. Thanks for getting back to me on this.

I disclaim sump pumps, but it's nice to learn something about them. Isn't there supposed to be a vent on this unit? Click to Enlarge 67.58 KB

Beat you to it Scott. We sprayed the whole area right away with 17 cans of that goo in order to keep the water off the dirt below. It's all sealed up nice and tight now.

Thanks for your input Kurt. I'll google my way to a finish. Definitely seems that if the grout is waterproof, then whats the problem. And get rid of the drywall.

So the 30# laps every half sheet. It laps over the tub rim too? The Durock laps the tub rim? Or just butt it all to the top of the tub and the tile laps the rim. The admix is what exactly? Something that makes it waterproof? If I had used whole tiles instead of the tiny ones and new what the heck backer rod was way back when we did it and never had the bright idea of using grout as the tub/wall sealer the thing would still be working. So my wife hears a dripping noise through the P-trap opening while we are monkeying with this, goes under the house, finds a hot water leak that has been going on for 3 weeks at least turning every sq inch of insulation into a rain forest. Sheesh. Click to Enlarge 62.04?KB Click to Enlarge 41.21?KB

Thanks Kurt. Should the Durock be sealed with some sort of primer/water proof finish prior to tile? And what about the flexible sealant at the tub junction. Does that defeat the drain behind the tile deal?

Shocking, but true, our tile on green-board above our tub has only held up 22 years. Time to fix. Yes, we have a shower there too. Any good ideas (directions) on the proper way to prepare it for tile and or a surround? If you have building paper and cement board lapping the tub, then you seal the connection at the tub, how does any water behind the tile get to the tub? Here's what we have now. Click to Enlarge 25.56 KB Click to Enlarge 21.54 KB

Yep, but there were only (3) 20 amp breakers on it. And I did the pass to an electrician.