Bill Kibbel

Maybe, but it might not be the HVAC, or maybe it's the HVAC and its interaction with other components of the house. It depends on the experience and knowledge of the HI vs. that of the HVAC guy. In my 22 inspecting years, I haven't seen but a few systems that were installed the way the manufacturer and/or mechanical code describes. There's likely even fewer HVAC mechanics that would actually look for solutions to the real issue. This scenario would likely be just another opportunity for a contractor to sell all new equipment and/or a ducting system. I would hope a decent HI would go well beyond "The house is 20 years old and has a gas furnace which is working fine" and guide the client in the right direction (I think that's what TARAN is doing by posting the question here). If an HI regularly makes the effort to understand all the systems in the home, how they interact and provide the client with ALL the information he could, I think the liability thing doesn't have to be a constant worry.

If they haven't already, they'll be buying some new systems for their clients. The good system inspectors around here spend around 2-3 hours. A big chunk of that is spent probing the field. They're the septic experts, not me. I have to be a x-purt about plenty of other stuff.

Give me a shout if you need something quoted from the 1897 NEC.

www.novaflex.com/information_centre/zfl ... 0Guide.pdf

What is it venting? Is it SS or alum.? Some flex liner manufacturers require the liner have a "base tee" for the flue connection. Some require an "A" connector w/gasket at the joint between the flue connector and liner. Insulated liners are preferred.

It's an external draft diverter for older systems that aren't manufactured with an integral draft hood.

It looks like no real lateral restraint at gable end wall of a bi-level. It's rather common. If not sheathed with boards or plywood, I can get some to move with a moderate shove.

I would have easily guessed he's a fellow Aquarius.

Perlite comes from a volcanic glass/rock. It's heated, pops like popcorn, puffs up with little tiny air bubbles and turns white. For insulation, it's usually used as loose fill in hollow masonry units. It's also added to concrete for a lighter, more fire resistant mix (IE: cast-in-place flue liners). No health risks.

Perlite.

I don't know if I would describe that as spread/applied. It looks like something stored broke open or spilled. Do you have an establishing shot? Did you taste it? Jim K would!

Mike is correct, they're DaVinci resin "slates". I'm quite familiar with them. I have their installation guide and can send it to you. I&WS is not required at the eaves in NJ or for this product. It IS required in valleys. Average NJ January temps are historically 31.5°F.

That's French Château style. We inspected one about 3 months ago outside of Phila. It was only 16000 sq. ft. though.

When I read Mike's reply, I pictured us showing up and heard the theme from The Beverly Hillbillies.

I was e-mailed this link just when I was thinking about how I miss that summer home we used to have in the Berkshires. www.newenglandcastle.com/wfPropertyDetails.aspx Click on Photo Tour and wait to see some of the interior.

Mike (and Steven), it was only designed to work in IE. This is what it looks like in Firefox: Click to View 52.95 KB A good web site designer would make it work in EVERY browser.

The first page I clicked on (www.ahmarchitects.com/home.htm) had blue text on a blue background. I could not possibly continue any further.

www.nj.gov/dca/codes/bulletins_ftos/lis ... b_90_3.pdf

Yes and no. It's listed as a noncombustible material for fire/area separation. It is not listed as a noncombustible material for clearance to combustibles requirements.

We've received a fair amount of residential and some commercial inspections from lawyers referring their divorce clients to us. It's a smart move when there's real estate assets caught in the middle. If your considering marketing this, be prepared for many emotional episodes and tension. I remember one of my earliest ones was a large compound of buildings. We had to be escorted by 2 state constables. Hubby threatened me anyway. The larger the real estate value, the more serious the tension can be.

When answering questions from other inspectors, we try to use the correct terms. If I don't know the correct word or phrase to describe something, I either look it up or wait for someone who knows to respond. You might want to look up skuttle (scuttle), then scupper and while your at it look up "penitrations". One of the smarter guys on this board has said frequently that we as inspectors need to communicate so we cannot be misunderstood. I think it's best to not spew forth made-up names of building parts where many come to learn.

I leave the halogens on for making my way around dark areas, not for looking. It works well lighting my way even from the holster. For example, I inspected a very large historic theatre where there was no electric to the building and no windows except in a couple small rooms. It was probably the longest I've ever gone without seeing daylight. I kept the halogens on in the flashlight on my belt. By the way, I now get them from Tony at HI-Essentials (site sponsor on the front page). The best price out there.

What do you think are "skuttle holes" and why should you see them in a roof?

Bill, Why, and which light do you prefer? I tried one and couldn't get through 1/3 of a basement , crawl or attic. Most buildings I inspect have one or more basements, multiple crawlspaces and attics. I try to view almost every square inch of underfloor spaces and attics. I'd probably need 6-10 Ultra Stingers per building. I know they're very bright, but I don't need that bright. I really don't have to determine if a powder post beetle has been circumcised. I use the Streamlight Lite-Box for unlit basements, most crawls and barns. For everything else, I use two SL-20XP-LEDs. I can inspect any size and condition property with this combination. I beat the crap outa them. Bulbs and batteries probably last me 4-5 years. Switches and lenses only last about 2, but replacement of those is free.

It sure looks like modified bitumen. It needs UV protection. Terminating it vertically and smearing goop on the top edge is not an acceptable flashing detail and will soon separate. The plumbing vent penetrations will leak too. If that water stands for more than 24 hours, it's ponding.