mcramer

Looks like nothing more than a phony directory designed to boost the rankings of their own sites.

there are ANSI standards for floor tile. You would have to look at the manufacturer's literature to determine whether or not the tile meets those standards. It will say suitable for use on floors, or suitable for use on walls, or something along those lines.

I've seen them slip down the wall if they're not fastened to the wall. The coping might hold it in place. Actually, in my neck of the woods, it would be a code thing, as the code says you shall install roof coverings in compliance with the manufacturer's specifications.

Just curious, how is that modified bit wall flashing attached to the wall? I don't see the required mechanical attachment in the area where the coping is missing.

You'll ocasionally get a false alarm from a valid program whose behavior imitates a trojan. Windows fax triggers it. I would ignore it.

They're asbestos cement. I still see a few of those here in Tampa.

It can work, IF you have enough light in the right places. Big IF. Most of what I've seen doesn't work.

At atmospheric pressure, Freon boils at -41 degree F. We operate the system under pressure to get the freon to boil at a temperature of around 38 degrees, so the water that forms on the evaporator coil doesn't freeze. When you have a small leak, the pressure drops, hence the boiling point of the Freon drops, causing the water on the coil to freeze. This might happen only in the AM. As the temperature rises (and therefore the pressure) the boiling point goes up and the ice melts. Eventually, so much leaks out that you have no cooling capacity and nothing happens. Anything that restricts air flow (which is the heat source that causes the boiling) will lower the coil temperature. Dirty coil, filters, restricted air flow, etc. Usually, if you have ice, it's a leak or it's undercharged.

Shingle overhang doesn't matter. No one does it here in the land of endless rainfall. It doesn't cause any problems, assuming the felt is over the drip edge or the shingles are cemented to the drip edge.

You can read all about every brand of tablet PC here: http://www.tabletpcbuzz.com Read the forums. I favor the Motion 1600. It seems to have slightly better reviews.

I don't know. My head hurts from thinking about this. . . .

Yes, assuming it's metal. Not to comply with requirements to bond gas piping, but with requirements in 680.26 to bond everthing metal in and around the pool. In order to understand this, you need to understand that there's stray current flowing through the earth from the utility distribution system. Usually this is minimal, but in some cases the levels can be high enough to cause death, especially in the wet environment around the pool. It only takes about 20 milliamps to prevent you from letting go of something that's energized, and perhaps half of that when your resistance is much lower because your skin is wet and your feet are bare. It's not implausible that you could have that much current flowing through your body to a metal component. There are many cases of people who can't use their pool because they get shocked and cases of people getting shocked while standing on a metal shower drain and touching the metal valve. If you want to delve into this subject, read this: http://www.mikeholt.com/documents/power ... _Stray.pdf and read the articles here: http://mikeholt.com/technical.php?id=st ... ltagelinks And if you think that the equipment ground will protect you and serve the same purpose, remember that the equipment ground puts the heater at the same potential as the earth AT THE SERVICE, which is distant from the pool heater. The voltage gradients across that distance can be quite large. This is a well known problem for dairy farmers. The very low stray current affects mild production dramatically. The short answer is, yes, not bonding the metal pool heater can kill someone. Not every day and not in every case, but it is a hazard. Maybe those newbie inspectors can teach us old dogs some new tricks.

No it doesn't. Equipment grounding provides a path for fault current to return to the transformer via the service neutral, enabling enough current to flow to trip a breaker. Bonding of interior metal piping (such as gas piping does exactly the same thing. Bonding a swimming pools does what you describe below, almost, but it's my understanding that you creating potential equal to the earth at the pool, so that stray current flowing through the earth doesn't shock you when you are standing on the earth touching something metal with your bare wet feet, or when sitting on the concrete deck with your feet dangling in the pool.

And where is the disconnect for that? Looks like it's tapped off of the service conductors inside the gutter. If so, that's a big no no.

What's that flex conduit coming off of the top of the gutter?

No, connecting to the earth will NOT clear a fault, at least not at the voltages we use in a house. Clearing the fault quickly requires about 5 times the amapacity of the breaker. The resistance of the earth is too high. At 120V you would only have about 1 amp returning to the neutral at the transformer through the earth. You are fooling yourself if you think that a ground rod will clear a fault. The connection to the metal water piping is NOT just a connection to the earth. The metal water pipe is bonded to the service neutral. That connection allows enough current to flow to enable the circuit breaker to trip.

Sub termites and drainage. You have to let the water out, or it soaks through the concrete and destroys the lath.

You don't need a lintel. You do need flashings, and weepholes just as with hard coat stucco or masonry veneer. Look at R703.7, 7.5 & 7.6 Or get the manufacturer's installation instructions.

Here are the numbers I have from a board report. Current as of 12/20/04: 5548 members, 83% renewed. 12/22/03: 6129 members, 77% renewed. Keep in mind these numbers vary dramatically throughout the year, peaking near the end of the year. The difference is mostly candidates who don't renew. The renewal rate for members and C-2 candidates is actually up to 93%. Y'all can do the math. BTW, I was the one who said the numbers were about the same, it wasn't anyone in leadership. You can attribute that quote solely to me.

MC> I know that some have gotten results they can directly attribute to branding and others have not. But keep in mind it's a long process. It's a journey, not a destination. MC> ASHI did some research on this. Somewhere around 70% of all referrals originate with the real estate agent. It's declined slightly over the last couple of years, I think it's about 68% now. That may have to do with the internet. That's why some of this marketing is aimed at the real estate community. MC>I've gotten a few jobs - two that I'm aware of that I can attribute to branding, but I wouldn't be surprised if I received none or ten. That's going to vary tremendously from person to person. MC>Without branding, I've gotten countless jobs that are referrals from other ASHI members, both locally and from across the country.

Membership numbers are about the same. ASHI lost some members with branding dues increase, but have made that up. ASHI is solvent. Very. I'm not sure what the dues are, I think they're $100.00 less than last year. You can decide for yourself on the results: Major Print Publications that have printed ASHI press releases or news articles mentioning ASHI: Better Homes and Gardens Chicago Tribune Consumer Reports Crain’s Residential Real Estate Guide Do! Magazine Living Without Magazine Los Angeles Times Money Magazine National Mortgage News Newsweek New York Times (multiple placements) New York Post Popular Mechanics Reader’s Digest Real Simple Magazine Remodeling Magazine Smart Homeowner Magazine Smart Money Magazine This Old House Magazine (multiple placements) Wall Street Journal Washington Post Washington Times (multiple placements) Where to Retire Magazine HIGHLIGHT: The “Home Frontâ€

Stan, you're looking a little pale. You really need to get out in the sun.

Gee, wonder who they're talking about? CREIA Cautions against ``Internet-Based Only'' Home Inspection Referral Organizations PALM SPRINGS, Calif.--(BUSINESS WIRE)--Dec. 1, 2004--The California Real Estate Inspection Association cautions home buyers, home sellers, and home builders -- as well as the real estate and legal community -- about a recent upsurge in Internet-only-based organizations that purport to recommend "certified" inspectors. It has come to the attention of the California Real Estate Inspection Association (CREIA), the largest and oldest state association for home inspectors in the country, that Internet-only-based organizations are referring "online approved and tested" inspectors to unsuspecting and uninformed consumers. It is imperative for all involved in the real estate transaction to know that there is no licensing of home inspectors in California. This non-licensing element has allowed online marketeers an inroad to offer "certifications" to any individual wanting to appear credentialed as a home inspector. Be wary of such "online-approved" home inspectors. The real estate inspection profession is a demanding profession that requires a broad base of knowledge in all areas of home construction, maintenance, and safety issues. It is imperative that consumers and real estate professionals ask for information as to what type of organization is providing the claimed "certification." Since California inspectors are not required to register themselves with the state, an individual with marginal qualifications may perform an inspection. REALTORS© and consumers should do some homework before recommending a professional inspector. The following tips can help:

Put a vapor retarder paint on the interior walls and insulate the wall cavity. That will warm the interior surface of the wall, preventing the condensation from occurring. The moisture is condensing on the wall surface because it's so cold. If you warm it up, you'll eliminate the condensation. But you want the vapor retarder on the wall to keep moisture from moving into the wall cavity and condensing there.

Conduit serves as the grounding conductor, but where are the grounds for the branch circuits? Were they in conduit also?