Charlie R

See them in Maryland, not often, but a few. No big deal.

Yep to all of the above - cold joints, form failures, change of plans about two minutes too late. Like was said, go work concrete forming for a while and you'll see it, but it is better today with the pre-made forms that pin together and better coordination between concrete truck deliveries/arrivals. Been there for 60 years, does it still have structural integrity? Pretty sure it does. Ugly, oh yeah.

Good job, congrats on the kicking!

Nope. Those radiator hose pieces are intended as temporary repair parts only, not for permanent installation. Go to the store and pick one up, you can't find a UPC marking on them anywhere. And yes, there are other problems as Garet pointed out.

80 inches (6'8") folded up, 31 inches at the widest point. I use a 2005 Ford Explorer and it fits in the back with the one back seat down and the passenger seat pulled up as close as I can get it to the dash. I wouldn't let anyone ever ride in the passenger seat with a ladder in like that because if someone hits you from behind, the ladder will be a battering ram. And yeah, it can be a heavy ladder, but for me it's still easier than swinging a 12 or 14 foot extension ladder around, and putting the wheels on it sure helped. I also carry the 12.5 Extend-and-climb, the 300 lb version. Between the two, I do OK. I started out with a LG 17, still have it, just no room to carry it also. Maybe if I - - -

You might want to look at the Werner ladder, same design type, 300 lb rating, but cost is cheaper than LG. They make a MT 17 but I got the MT 26, longest one they make, got the wheel kit from Little Giant and installed the wheels myself. I love it, wouldn't trade it. http://www.wernerladder.com/catalog/res ... &type_id=6

Yep, two separate coils, flat coil at the top for heat, with the small circulatory pump. Sorry, didn't take that picture.

Had one yesterday in Columbia Maryland in a 1200 sq ft condo on the third floor of a four story condo building, built in 2005. Used the 50 gallon gas water heater for heat and a Goodman 18,000 BTU A/C for cooling. No problems found. Usually I can find some fungal growth inside the air handler but this one was clean. Click to Enlarge 52.4 KB Click to Enlarge 38.35 KB Click to Enlarge 33.42 KB Click to Enlarge 77.07 KB

If I can't see a bonding wire, then I call it out.

TNR 12, easy to read, has that nice classical appearance.

Good info, thanks. I see 3 -4 steam boilers a year here, hard to remember everything.

See stuff like that all the time on the Baltimore row homes. They take every kind of roofing known (mod bit, roll goods) and tar it down, go over it every two years or so with aluminum paint-on or another tar (flood) coat. Use real caution walking on this kind of roof, you never know where they just went over a hole. Click to Enlarge 37.99 KB

Thanks all.

Thanks Erby, you hit that right on the head.

Considering using it as a tool to go with my home inspections, not a separate thing. Reading the postings here I am impressed that inspectors are spotting roof leaks, and possibly plumbing leaks. As for equipment, right now I have and use a Aquant moisture meter, but that's about it. Rely on the eyes (which get older each day) to spot leaks but if this could confirm leaks, I think that would be good. Who hasn't found stains in the attic and couldn't tell if they were new or old? Or that stain on the drywall ceiling right below the bath tub, is it active or just water the kids splashed out? Maybe something like this could help? Thanks.

If I was was going to purchase the equipment and add this to my home inspection business, what are the steps you experienced people think I should take? And what equipment do you recommend? Thanks.

By providing the hour-by-hour readings, you give the client more information, which does sometimes end up having to answer more questions. I don't necessarily see that as a bad thing since we are in the business of providing people info. I had a home that had an average of 3.8 but half of the hourly readings (this was on a 96 hour test) were over 4.0, some as high as 8. The client decided to have the home mitigated even though the total average number was under 4.0. They made that decision based on the chart info. So, another home is mitigated, readings after mitigation were 1.3, all hourly readings were under 4.0, is that somehow a bad thing? Personally, I think too many people, and Realtors, get hung up on the 4.0 is dangerous but 3.9 is not. That's like saying smoking 18 cigarettes a day is ok, but the full 20 of a pack is not. And yes, when I had an EKG, I asked to see the tape and made the Doctor explain what it all meant.

Learn something new every time I look here, Thanks.

I've seen some of the "flippers' peel the old brick face off and install new brick. From the photo, that might be what they did. I hate when they finish off those basements, you can't see anything and that's where I typically see the sand on the floor from the old soft mortar. What I've seen is where they have a proper height in a finished basement is that they have completely gutted the interior, left just the exterior and side walls, and then run new joists at a higher level. That's good because they didn't disturb the footings by digging down beside them but you really can't see too much about how they did the new framing. Typically, now when you go in the front door, there will be a step-up.

I use the SN 1028, it does put out a nice report that you can add pictures to and has the hour-by-hour graph, 6 pages total. The 1028 costs more but I think it is worth it. The 1028 also has a tri-pod mount on the bottom so you can buy a $20 dollar tri-pod to set it up on when testing. I also use HG but never tried to marry the two, just produce two separate reports.

"Charlie: Just to play devil's advocate ....... you can't possibly know that you've never lost any inspections because of that policy. You state on your web site that you don't take credit cards. If a buyer on your site read that, but knew he wanted to pay with a card, he would just move on to someone else. How would you ever know that happened?" You're correct, I don't really know if I've lost any business or not if they read it on my website and went elsewhere. I do know no one has ever asked me about it and then not been willing to use me. I also know I lose business all the time to inspectors who charge less than me but I don't plan on lowering my prices to get those clients.

Cash or personal check only, no problems, no lost inspections.

Thanks Eric, looks like you may have it, it was made in Germany, HO is the manufacturing code. I'll go back to verify some of the markings, now that I know what I'm looking for, but it does appear to be a PEX product made for potable water. Thanks.

This link "http://www.inspectapedia.com/heat/goodman.htm" mentions Selvent.

Found this in a home, didn't make sense to me. Home was built in 1990 and had PB as a main line coming in but changed to copper as soon as it came in. Most of the home had copper but the basement area had this black hose labeled as PEX, made in Germany. No PEX I recognized, I think it may be for radiant heating only, not potable water, so I recommended checking with a plumber but I'd like to be able to give them an answer myself. Click to Enlarge 39.85 KB Click to Enlarge 36.93 KB Click to Enlarge 52.27 KB