Mike Lamb

First time for me to see this type of wiring.

It's new laundry equipment.

There are three wires running from an electric dryer to a condo subpanel. Would it make sense that the green wire is a neutral for 120 V from the dryer or would that need 4 wires? Or is this a ground that should be isolated from the neutral bar on the panel?

How do you comment or make a reply to any articles that get posted on TIJ? I see a comments tag at the bottom of the article but nothing happens when I try to use it. Or quite possibly I'm just missing something obvious. On another inspection website, the format does not allow you to make remarks about an article that gets printed. Is that the same here?

My client wants to change the siding on the house he's buying from aluminum to vinyl claiming aluminum pulls heat from the house in winter. At least one remodeling website I looked at supports this. It makes some sense but is it a valid conclusion? I cannot find a credible study to support this.

For some reason the electrician did not trim off the excess wire length and wrapped them up and left them in the bottom of the panel. Could there be any chance of overheating? Is it worth complaining about? Click to Enlarge 69.28 KB

And poetry will die. Bricklayer Love by Carl Sandburg I thought of killing myself because I am only a bricklayer and you a woman who loves the man who runs a drug store. I don't care like I used to; I lay bricks straighter than I used to and I sing slower handling the trowel afternoons. When the sun is in my eyes and the ladders are shaky and the mortar boards go wrong, I think of you.

Shouldn't the exterior downspout connection for the radon mitigation be sleeved into the upper connection since air/gases are being pushed upward? It seems common sense but I don't know. This may have been done for water that might run down? Click to Enlarge 29.19 KB Click to Enlarge 62.95 KB

I don't ever recall seeing an ANSI date from the 70's so I will assume early 80's.

https://www.ansi.org/about_ansi/introduction/history Thanks, but I don't see the answer to my question. Do you?

Around when did the ANSI date start getting printed on gas appliances?

Follow-up: I contacted the manufacturer, Marion Ceramics. They did not have any technical notes on installation. They directed me to Laticrete which is a mortar and bonding product used to fasten veneer. There technical notes were misleading. They did have drawings that had the veneer installed over a moisture drainage system. I finally talked to a technical representative and he told me as long as the right adhesive/mortar is being used you can apply the veneer directly to CMU. Click to Enlarge 92.13 KB

This does not seem right but I cannot find any technical notes to contradict this application. I have looked at the BIA technical notes 28C on thin brick veneer which says this can be applied over CMU which has a base coat over that. I don't see that a base coat was applied here, but besides that I can't find any specific notes on this application. They are supposed to finish the work on one of the walls when it gets warmer. I have seen some masonry notes that you should apply thin brick veneer over metal lath on masonry but applying it directly over isn't a no no.Any thoughts? I called the representative of the manufacturer of the thin brick veneer and they have not gotten back to me. Click to Enlarge 47.85 KB Click to Enlarge 37.11 KB Click to Enlarge 51.6 KB Click to Enlarge 54.83 KB

My apologies for the orientation.

If easily accessible, I would ignore any code questions in my report. They call them hubless fittings around here and it is an awesome way to save time connecting drain pipe. If there is a problem/failure, fixing it is a breeze.

I have never put B-vent together. Ignoring the insulation issue, is this small gap at the connection of any consequence? Click to Enlarge 50.9 KB Click to Enlarge 46.26 KB

That's really cool. Marc I assume clunking from the tank is another sign of a broken dip tube or sacrificial anode.

Your chart shows a third degree burn can occur in 1-2 seconds if water temps are between 148 and 155 degrees. I'd never risk testing water temps that way. If I were you I wouldn't risk it either. The elderly and young children have a much slower reaction time.

I test water temp with my hand. If I can't hold it under the tap for more than 1 or 2 seconds it's too hot. The laser thermometer is mostly eye candy like my cheap thermal imaging camera. It shows a picture of what I already know. The accurate temp is not important to me.

This is the hottest I have ever measured tap water. 152 F. Click to Enlarge 28.08 KB Click to Enlarge 56.71 KB

Are there any written standards as to how big a header flashing should be at a wall to roof detail? Click to Enlarge 52.83 KB

I did an inspection for a young couple in May on new construction. Come winter they saw that the hardwood floors were separating substantially. The builder had the flooring guy come out and he told them to turn up the humidifier which they did. Apparently this helped the flooring problem but they have the humidity too high where its condensing on windows and causing paint on the interior windows to peal and mold. Is the flooring guy telling them to turn up the humidity on the furnaces a dodge and that they installed the floor wrong with too much moisture? My advice was to turn the humidifiers off and and that the condition of the floor should not be determined by the humidifiers. I also informed them that humidifiers, in my experience, do more harm than good to the home.

Is the OP, Aaron B. Lichtenauer, still reading? Or is this a bunch of old timers in a circle jerk?

I posted something similar in the plumbing section a while back. Barry Adair posted this link on the subject: http://plumbingengineer.com/content/pvc ... flue-gases

Does this copper pipe look like it has been patched? If so, what is it and will it work? I did not see any drips. It reminds me of Black Swan iron paste. Click to Enlarge 35.79 KB Click to Enlarge 29.21 KB