ericwlewis

You implied it takes skill to bounce ladders. I implied all it takes is dismissing intelligence. I've done it, lots of times; I wasn't thinking when I did it. It's a fools activity. Nice guy. You don't know me or my activities, yet you feel you can call me a fool. I've always wondered about you and a few others on this forum. Now after a couple of recent threads, it's confirmed. Thanks.

Jim K.-Most eaves I've come across are only about 20' from ground level. If it's a gable you're referring to, just run the ladder up whilst on the gutter and walk it around the corner. There's no need to climb over an eave on the gable anyway, is there? Kurt, I don't understand your comment. Bill, don't worry I won't be near your home and I didn't say "Ropies" don't have any skills. I may have implied it though. I apologize for that. Jim M. -How do you know it's "a whole lot less professional" if you've never seen it done? I don't consider putting the rope back on the ladder maintenance. I've never had the need to "bounce" the ladder on an inspection anyway. I hope this answers all your questions and concerns. It doesn't change my original answer though. "I find that it gets in the way. I can put mittens on the tips and "bounce" them up to the extension I want. Just general preference I suppose."

I don't know what all the hub-bub is about. There's just some who have skills and some that don't. It's not an issue getting around the eaves if you think outside the box. It doesn't cause any more damage than the ladder does leaning on the gutter and you have to remember the ladder mittens. To each his own, no ropes for me and if not on someone else's house then whos?

I always charged "extra" but it was not optional. I figured a 2000 sqft house with a crawlspace cost more to inspect than one on a slab.

You bounce it up. Stand on the ground, extend it manually a few rungs and bounce it up as needed. Ropes are problematic. That's it. Once it is beyond your reach you start climbing and bouncing at the same time. I've not had to use a fiberglass ladder before but it's probably a little too heavy and stiff for this technique.

Why's that? I find that it gets in the way. I can put mittens on the tips and "bounce" them up to the extension I want. Just general preference I suppose.

I've habitually removed the rope on the first day of anything 32' or under.

BING! I've though that for years.

Being vacant and unheated I presume? Would the lack of heat and the presence of caustics cause excessive corrosion??

I was in one similar to this on a warm summer day but it was "comfortable" in the attic. Maybe 90 degrees? As far as the drawbacks of no ventilation, I have no opinion.[:-paperba

And it winds down to the fact that no particular tradesman is responsible for giving it a finished look when the house is completed. This builder needs a good punch-out guy.

you tried Google, right? I did and it said to call the company Did it look like an '03 model? That would be my initial guess.

I have yet to see the style in question either installed or on the shelf but have seen the type that protect the slots.

outrageously expensive too! http://www.faucet.com/kohler-k-923-mode ... Mgodb24ATw

Google it! http://www.lowes.com/pd_211057-334-TR27 ... ct_price|0

Glad to hear you've got it "figured out" Tuscany from Menards is junk too.

don't actually drain the tank. leave the water supply on so that the pressure will help blow the sediment out. If it does actually flow out, wait about 5 minutes, carefully check to see if the water coming out of the hose is hot, if it's not hot, let the water flow on your hand and feel for sediment grit in the water. Once it feels clean, close the valve and repeat next year. If there is rear access to your tub valves, the new installations shouldn't be more than a couple hundred bucks a piece (plus fixture).

a six year old water heater could have enough sediment in it to create hot water related issues with 20 psi fluctuating water pressure like you get with a well. To rule that out; connect a hose to the drain spout at the bottom of the heater and turn it on. If no water comes out of the hose you have a lot of sediment which can affect the pressure on the hot side dramatically. As I replace water heaters and ask folks if they have flushed the old one regularly they look at me like I'm nuts. I flush mine for about 5 minutes every six months or so and it's a '97 Richmond 6yr gas.

would it kill you to use a hole saw?? Click to Enlarge 4.14 KB

that made me chuckle.

I don't know about all that but the top of every micro/hood I've installed has had a damper on it. I've always used rigid duct for the exhaust.

are they Peerless or Tuscany valves??

It looks like this is just one of a few problems with this joint.

I always use these Click to Enlarge 5.01 KB or these Click to Enlarge 6.1 KB You can't be professional if you can't do a professional job.

just replaced my 20yr old Trane (furnace only) with a Goodman. It cost me less than $800 and 3.75 hrs to do it myself.