ericwlewis

the picture is fuzzy but it looks like a rubber boot on a b vent? Also the boots are completely on top of the shingles?

I found this today, not during an inspection (because I quit doing those 1/1/2013) but while I was replacing an ice maker supply line that was leaking. I gathered the old parts so that they would fit into the picture. The switches and gauges were thrown 10' away!? Why don't contractors just police their mess after the job is done? Is there no dignity in doing an excellent job anymore? Click to Enlarge 644.06 KB

how did this topic get to fireblocking INSIDE the ductwork???

Like a furnace located in the garage and flex going into the house. I have a picture of that somewhere.

two great examples of some very professional work!

I originally had the thought that the ductwork would have to be metal at the fireblocking to work. But it would need to be metal for the entire run, right? If it caught on fire two feet below the fireblocking it would shoot up through the metal duct and out the next section of flex[:-bigeyes

I'd say "if fire can shoot up it, it needs fire blocking". But considering it's flex duct, it doesn't seem like it would make a bit of difference.

don't forget about the lead in Fiestaware and off brand stoneware. We had a bunch of our dishes tested and had to get rid of most of them because of lead content. We think they may have had a lot to do with our now 22 year old daughters stomach and learning disorders Our son wasn't affected because he didn't eat knife and fork food until recently because he was VERY finicky.

of course you "can"! You have photographic proof.

Kurt turned me onto that trick. It works amazingly well. i did it too but though I was being original and....if all things being equal, the bigger 3 pc would be more cumbersome as well!

I bought a 3 pc 16' that stows inside my 6.5' truck cap and it IS more cumbersome than the typical 16'er. homedepot.com/buy/werner-16-ft-aluminum-3-section-compact-extension-ladder-225-lb-load-capacity-type-ii-duty-rating--d1216-3.html#.UOowj3ewWSp So I would say it is likely that if all things being equal...........

or hire a plumber to do it for you....$175.00?

Dielectric unions are crap but I haven't seen a failed one of these; http://www.pexsupply.com/Matco-Norca-DN ... MgodQVIAog

Yes.

I think I'm going to go back in behind the washing machine to see if I can retrofit a 2" vent. To roof is only 2' away so It shouldn't be too hard. Also, my apologies for the helping the thread drift...

Minimum laundry vent has been 2" for a lot of years. Then, there's the (somewhat antiquated) suds zone consideration. I'd rethink the "vented appropriately" comment. Yeah well I did this project with only a handful of experience and the city inspector never bothered to come by. It seems to be the only problem I've come across since I built it 13 years ago. The ONLY things I didn't do myself was mix the concrete for the footer and set the condensate lines/ charge them. Do you have a dishwasher on that drain as well? I used to have problems in my previous house from DW soap and grease building up in the drain. It is a nasty white fat that sticks to the pipes especially if the drain is a bit sluggish to begin with. Sure do.....but it seems like that would force the suction from the vent at the washer rather than from the kitchen sink downstairs....doesn't it?

I'm assuming you saw these and don't want plastic... http://www.houseofantiquehardware.com/p ... ton-switch

Minimum laundry vent has been 2" for a lot of years. Then, there's the (somewhat antiquated) suds zone consideration. I'd rethink the "vented appropriately" comment. Yeah well I did this project with only a handful of experience and the city inspector never bothered to come by. It seems to be the only problem I've come across since I built it 13 years ago. The ONLY things I didn't do myself was mix the concrete for the footer and set the condensate lines/ charge them.

a word of warning, in 1999 I built an addition with a bathroom, kitchen and laundry room. They are all vented appropriately and have worked fine for years but lately the washing machine drain is causing "glugging" in the kitchen sink. I opened the wall behind the washer to confirm a vent, check. I went on the roof to confirm the vent was clear, check. If I had it to do again I would separate the washing machine and make it 2" instead of 1.5". I'm still trying to figure this thing out.

i googled those oddball sizes and found this site. http://www.spudtech.com/detail.asp?id=34 I know this is 2" but who knew there was a call for rifled pvc??

what is the "attraction" of the manifold system vs. a branch type system like has been around since indoor plumbing? You typically would have a shutoff at every fixture, right. It seems like having a manifold system is just an extra expense and a lot more piping to me.

They are a specialty item, and probably cost more the $2 these days. I doubt they sell them in home improvement centers. I've only seen them in electrical supply houses. You can see the letters on the yoke and they are also embossed on the back. Click to Enlarge 28.63?KB Click to Enlarge 41.11?KB I was pretty sure I knew the answer and that you can get them in Lowes, Menards etc. I have bought them there recently. As far as cost, . $2.99 at Home depot http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Out ... LqH-obAGso

Serious question, are all new receptacles rated CO/ALR??? or can you actually see it on there? I didn't think the 39 cent recepts were CO/ALR, just the $2 ones.

Thread drift continued... Not to dismiss the lady or the young fellow and their misfortunes but far too many drivers take unreasonable risks when driving. Tailgating any vehicle let alone one that is loaded with materials of some sort is just ignorant. What ever happened to leaving a few car lengths on the road? I know I leave extra room on the road and when someone fills it I drop back some more. If I see a truck hauling materials, trash, gravel or what have you, I'm moving to a different lane or backing way off. A a cyclist I have trained myself to be super vigilant of my surroundings and expect EVERY DRIVER to try to hit me. I've taken the same vigilance to my defensive driving. You have to expect that one of those 2x4's are going to fall out of that truck and have a plan to avoid it. That tarp that's swirling around in an eddy in the bed of that truck is going to fly out. I strap every load down that I transport but I don't expect every yahoo with a pickup truck to do the same. Self preservation and self awareness is my responsibility, not yours.

That's sad I would be really bummed if I lost one of my > $1000 bikes. On the plus side I could shop for a new one. The bike carrier was probably less than a few hundred...