randynavarro

Had my first one of these today. Click to Enlarge 36.42 KB Click to Enlarge 43.95 KB Click to Enlarge 42.3 KB Click to Enlarge 49.71 KB

Yes, trap primers are pretty common in the northwest. The last one I saw a few days ago was for a trap serving a catch pan under a 2nd floor washing machine. Thanks for the replies on suggested test methods.

For better or for worse. . . Mike, you couldn't have done any better. Yung, you couldn't have done any worse.

Hmmm. I'm going to have to think about that. . . .

I've asked before but wanted to see if there are any new thoughts or input from some of the newer members here. Anybody have any good methods or even know if a test method exists for knowing if a trap primer is functional?

Permits are required. Different parts of town allow different things regarding the disposal of storm water. Some parts of Seattle allow it and other's don't. It's all over the map in other counties and cities around Puget Sound. If you really need to know, you'd have to contact that AHJ.

I think we've discussed something simliar before; can't remember. . . If the panel can be dis-assembled, cleaned, and all fouled parts replaced, that could be an option. For a few more bucks, though, it may be more beneficial to replace. It's a tough one.

I see that type of deterioration every once in a while. It's not that rare. A lot of complex variables factor in to why one flue pipe will rust more than another--no matter for this discussion. Replacing those sections is simple and should be done. That HVAC guy that said it isn't a problem needs to be thumped up side the head. It sounds like he's in the pocket of the listing agent. When replacing, make sure the tech (or whomever) is able to investigate the rest of the flue that travels down through the house all the way to the furnace. There's likely other sections of damage but probably not as severe. There will certainly be lots of debris and particulate inside that flue that will have fallen down to the lowest points of the run. If the other sections of pipe aren't "damaged" they'll certainly have debris that will need to be cleaned out. This is normal fare for a reputable and honest HVAC tech. Edit: If you're feeling particularly persnickety, have that other HVAC tech put somethig in writing stating this isn't a problem. The "he said, she said" game is the worst in a real estate transaction.

I call laziness. They didn't have the right parts on the truck at the time and they didn't want to cut any sheet metal.

There is absolutely nothing else attached to that furnace. Nothing behind, on top, or on the sides. I could easily see all sides of the cabinet. I don't have good pics of this but no matter -- nothing else is attached--I'm positive. I also don't have a better pic of the inside of the cabinet. That green portion of metal Terence arrowed in his diagram is the blower motor housing. Assuming the air is returning from the elbow at the bottom --that makes sense--to where is the warm air being sent? BTW, the tank was out of oil so no heat. Only blower motor function. And yes, the flue should have a barometric damper. (It should also be sloped up.)

Yeah, you're missing your brain! D'oh, did I say that? Seriously, Jim's got it right. The furnace sits in what used to be the attached garage. The garage is now enclosed and finished. That plenum you see unde the furnace is a big elbow that just shoots right in to the crawl space. But I'm still totally stumped. How is the air getting back to the furnace?

Today I found an old oil furnace. It appears to be original to the house (circa 1951). Click to Enlarge 53.36 KB It was mounted on a slab and there was no ductwork attached except at the bottom. Click to Enlarge 45.36 KB It appeared to be the supply plenum to the crawl space. Each room had a return and a supply register and I could feel air returning and being supplied in the registers. Where's the return plenum?

If it was a dark or near black roof, that radiant heat can overcome any natural draft induced by passive ventilation.

It's not an s-trap but it's still wrong. The vent opening in the wall is below the weir of the trap. It must be above. Installing a longer tailpiece down from the sink will solve the problem.

How does it help cut report writing time?

Yes. Pabco has a spec. sheet, that although they don't "prefer" it, they consider it acceptable. Their detail shows laminated shingles and not 3-tab shingles, however.

Anyone have a problem with this? I couldn't find anything specific in install manuals stating this isn't allowed. Click to Enlarge 102.98 KB

I had this happen on my last house and posted about it several years ago. We all scratched our head for quite a while. Even more disturbing was that my service was underground lateral - no exposure to the elements. After a while, the best answer I could get was from the utilty company; they postulated two things: 1) while the cable is sitting on the drum in the yard, a tremendous amount of water can enter the cable and 2) water is somehow generated via condensation and actually transmitted through the cable where it finally exists and drips--right in to the panel. Sounds whacky but it was the best answers I could get at the time.

So does one call that out as problematic or just some crazy incident from the past?

I'm with Kurt. I've understood we have very soft water here. I don't tell folks to drain tanks. I've actually never drained one myself so I can't say from experience if that hold true or not.

BTW, how are you getting photos of the interior before you get there?

Take two. . . How's about water draining behind the stucco then behind the brick, then freezing.

How's about just crappy work?

Here's an interesting discussion from a while back. It may shed a little light on the attic stuff. . . https://www.inspectorsjournal.com/forum ... IC_ID=9431 It gets most interesting, IMO, about half way down the thread.

Don't you mean down the food chain. . . ?