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where should the grounds connect?

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This is a subpanel in a 1966 house. Neutrals are on buss bars. All of the available bars are tied together we can't just add grounds to bars the neutrals are on.

Grounds are connected at a variety of places including under one of four screws holding the buss/breaker assembly to the panel box. Another example is a bunch of wires twisted together that are too short to reach a connection point so another wire is twisted to them and placed under a screw.

Is the proper ground wire attachment point the lugs on either side of the box? Just stuff a bunch of wires under the lug and snug?

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tn_20115262274_5-26-11%20074%20(Medium).jpg

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This is a subpanel in a 1966 house. Neutrals are on buss bars. All of the available bars are tied together we can't just add grounds to bars the neutrals are on.

Grounds are connected at a variety of places including under one of four screws holding the buss/breaker assembly to the panel box. Another example is a bunch of wires twisted together that are too short to reach a connection point so another wire is twisted to them and placed under a screw.

Is the proper ground wire attachment point the lugs on either side of the box? Just stuff a bunch of wires under the lug and snug?

Click to Enlarge
tn_20115262274_5-26-11%20074%20(Medium).jpg

58.34 KB

No. The proper attachement point would be an accessory grounding terminal kit.

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What Jim said. Here's a couple of pics. The Cutler Hammer bus bar shown here allows the grounding wires to be spread out, two to a hole, but I see older Square D's that tell the sparky to twist them together and jam them into a big lug. That was then, this is now.

I suppose it depends on the panel brand and the vintage, but the best fix of course is the long bus bar with plenty of connectors.

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tn_20115271543_ground%20bus.jpg

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tn_201152715425_groundbus2.jpg

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BTW, those feeders from the main panel are kinked, so I would have the electrician check them too. There's a max bending radius for those conductors.

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