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Redoing my Bathroom...


Gordon
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Captain, Kurt & Rob...thanks for the replies. I should have been more detailed, though.

1) The vent isn't connected to the dryer-no lint problem. It's connected to the heating vent, right off the side, as you can see in the pix.

2) Rob, you're correct-my bathroom is partly over the garage, hence the insulation. Which raises another question I'll ask at the end. Around here, at least in my experience, this kind of venting is considered dryer venting. I can see where you're going, that this may be used to provide heat, so I may have to expand my vocabulary for this material.

3) Kurt, yes...this is original from the builder (whose name I won't give at this time-not sure if I can). There were alot of corners cut in this house when it was built in '87. I find more jury-rigging when I go to make some changes.

If you think it's wise, I'll just go get some more "flexible" piping, and replace this, as I cut into it when I opened up the floor.

On to my other question: Seeing some of the responses has made me think I should insulate the water lines in the floor, as part of the bathroom is over the garage. I was originally thinking the insulation in the floor would be sufficient, but now I'm re-considering. ???

Download Attachment: icon_photo.gif Open Ended Vent 3.JPG

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Download Attachment: icon_photo.gif Open Ended Vent 4.JPG

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What the Captain said. If that was a dryer discharge, there would be a holy hell of a mess in there w/lint, moisture, mold, etc.

Did I read correctly where you said "the dryer duct is attached to the heating duct"(?). I think that this may have been some ham fisted method of introducing heat under the tub, not a dryer duct.

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Gordon,

I suspect what you meant to say was that a flexible metal pipe was attached to the heat distribution system and not a dryer vent.

Your question is very technical in nature and without more information would be difficult to give a proper answer.

I see insulation,

Would this bathroom be located over an unheated space, like a garage.

Merely blowing heat in a space is not enough, like blowing into a plastic bag. You need a return or a way to allow for air circulation.

More photos would help.

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First off; put some shoes on, hillbilly. Whaddayawannado, cut your toe off? [:-idea]

2nd; the "takeoff" from the heat duct w/flex dryer duct isn't going to carry any air; it's worthless. Tear the whole boot off, put in a decent wye & reducer, & extend heat down to the tub space like the guy should have done in the first place.

3rd; insulating the pipe isn't going to keep the pipes from freezing. There has to be a heat source in addition to the pipe insulation. I might be missing something, but if the pipes are in the same space as the new heat run, there should be enough residual heat to prevent them from freezing. I'd be insulating the garage ceiling before I'd be insulating the pipes.

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Hey...those are duck feet! Can't you see the webbed toes? Ha!

That was my original thought when I considered dropping the water lines...the residual heat would keep them from freezing. Thought I'd post the question, just for other opinions. And the insulation you see there, is directly over the garage-so it is insulated. I had considered removing the vent, because I didn't think it would be doing anything either-not replacing it at all. But after our conversations, I think I'll get something to extend down there now. This will extend the residual heat source, and I won't have to be concerned about the water lines down there. Thanks Kurt!

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I see you've given yourself additional work by cutting the sub floor beyond the joist...Oh well

More importantly (than wearing shoes[;)]) try to keep your circular saw blade 'slightly' deeper than the material you're cutting, especially in renovation work. I see you've cut the flex pipe, that could have been a drain line or worse a live conductor. Renovation work can be dangerous even in your own home.

If you asked me how I would finish this little project, it would go like this.

Add a line clean out for each vanity basin. I know, it may not be code in your area but it sure makes it easier to auger. It's a convenience thing.

Fix the heat duct. Keep in mind that you are over an unconditioned space and over a garage. Here, we are concerned with gas proofing, you on the other hand are concerned with fire proofing. Something I've never been able to understand, death by fire is OK here but not by carbon monoxide. Ensure the duct/heating system is separate from the garage area.

As unconventional as it maybe I would install my double vanity without fixing the floor. That would allow just enough air circulation to prevent things from freezing. I would complete the ducting to the toe kick register, if you don't, the inside of your vanity cabinet will be a mini oven.

If you only have one GFI outlet, now would be a good time to add another.

Don't forget the insulation and vapor barrier (VDR).

I like to have my water lines inside the heated space. You might think about running yours under the toe kick.

After all that, you're going to tell me your wife wants two pedestal basins.. in which case forget the above

Gordon,

Don't beat yourself up over a small thing like calling a flexible metal duct a dryer vent. That's why we're here to learn. I've had to use this pipe a few times myself to get around tight corners on difficult renovation projects. Yes, I know...but it's better than nothing.

Good Luck

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