Denray Posted January 21, 2013 Report Posted January 21, 2013 I've always had problems with the caulking the tub to the tile thing. This time around it was staying too wet. It wouldn't dry out. So I dug it out and stuffed backer rod to within a 1/16th of an inch of the opening. Put down fresh coat of water based sanded caulk. It split horizontally. Spoke with mfg and they said just add more on top? I let it dry 3 plus days with a dehumidifier. It's still soft along the back front corner and down the side towards the back. It's also pulling off and crumbling a bit. WHAT THE HECK AM I DOING WRONG WITH THIS STUFF? [:-paperba Click to Enlarge 32.2?KB
Jim Katen Posted January 21, 2013 Report Posted January 21, 2013 I've always had problems with the caulking the tub to the tile thing. This time around it was staying to wet. It wouldn't dry out. So I dug it out and stuffed backer rod to within a 1/16th of an inch of the opening. Put down fresh coat of water based sanded caulk. It split horizontally. Spoke with mfg and they said just add more on top? I let it dry 3 plus days with a dehumidifier. It's still soft along the back front corner and down the side towards the back. It's also pulling off and crumbling a bit. WHAT THE HECK AM I DOING WRONG WITH THIS STUFF? [:-paperba Click to Enlarge 32.2?KB I don't know why it's behaving like that. Are you using some kind of cheezy store-brand product? My patented method: Thoroughly clean the joint with acetone to remove all impurities. Use painter's masking tape to mask off each side of the caulk seam and thoroughly burnish the edges of the tape for a razor-sharp finished caulk line. Fill the tub with water. If there's any tendency for the tub to shift downward when filled, this will ensure that the tub is in its lowest position. Caulk the joint with a quality product, like Polyseamseal. Apply it all in one go. Tool the joint smooth with your wet finger. Immediately pull off the masking tape, being careful not to bung up the caulk line. Leave the tub full of water till the caulk sets, which should happen in a day.
gtblum Posted January 21, 2013 Report Posted January 21, 2013 You should also learn to push the caulk gun instead of pulling it toward you and drawing the caulk with it. I learned that trick from a carpenter from Bosnia. He was so good at it, there was no need (for him) to tool it after. The tip tooled it as he went. I'm not as good at it as he is, but it saves time and waste of material, it ensures the gap is filled, and it works.
KStaudt Posted January 21, 2013 Report Posted January 21, 2013 The caulk may be reacting with the glue used to adhere the surround panels. Use only quality caulk designed for use with the panels. Properly applied, caulk requires no tooling. The push technique takes practice. Also keep in mind caulk shrinks as it cures.
KStaudt Posted January 21, 2013 Report Posted January 21, 2013 The caulk may be reacting with the glue used to adhere the surround panels. Use only quality caulk designed for use with the panels. Properly applied, caulk requires no tooling. The push technique takes practice. Also keep in mind caulk shrinks as it cures.
Denray Posted January 21, 2013 Author Report Posted January 21, 2013 OK, thanks all. Take a look at my last photo on the post before. The drywall repair came out very well. I still don't get the not drying thing.
KStaudt Posted January 21, 2013 Report Posted January 21, 2013 It could be a bad batch of caulk. My friend just returned a couple skids to a manufacturer. The stuff wouldn't dry.
Denray Posted January 22, 2013 Author Report Posted January 22, 2013 I'll have to hope the replacement tube I got wasn't from the same batch. I'm trying the Jim K method with blue tape. Don't know how that push style goes around inside corners. Beer first then caulk.[:-party]
Denray Posted January 22, 2013 Author Report Posted January 22, 2013 Had a few burnish flaws, but wet finger handled it. Margarita time.[:-party] Click to Enlarge 36.74 KB Click to Enlarge 27.36 KB
kurt Posted January 22, 2013 Report Posted January 22, 2013 Looks good. Time will tell. My own experience is...it's caulk, it always gets some funk in it sooner or later. The "push" method is a learned experience; going around corners is easier than the "pull" method; you ease up on the trigger, then kind of do a little pirouette in the corner, then go off down the new line. Done right, there's usually just a teeny little bulge that you touch off with a wet finger.
Denray Posted January 22, 2013 Author Report Posted January 22, 2013 I'm so lucky. It's doing that horizontal split thing again. [:-crazy] Click to Enlarge 33.33 KB
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