Chad Fabry

I've been using one for the past month doing the FEMA gig. It runs a long time on the battery, recognizes even my handwriting pretty well and seems durable given the fact that I used it as weapon against a rotweiler. His face didn't survive as well as the Fujitsu. I don't really know how well it handles programs because it comes only with what they want you have but it runs 5 or 6 programs simultaneously and it doesn't seem to slow down.

The point load at the base will be huge after those plates rust out and they will. If it's a typical basement with 3500 psi concrete (or less) the point loads from the screw could exceed the capacity of the concrete to support the post. Once the post has moved down at all, the loads on the adjacent posts just became 50% greater, and in some cases the load would be doubled. Another thing: The photo that the Honorable Kibbel posted is of a two piece adjustable post. That post really is for temporary use and I've never seen one rated at more than 2500 lb capacity. They're junk. The posts that are one piece, are available in 6 inch increments with the screw making the difference between the sizes. The better ones in 4 inch are rated for 12,000 lbs. I lifted a 1600 sq ft ranch with two beams, 2 jacks and 6 of those posts and installed a new basement under the house. There was other bracing, but the posts supported the weight of the structure for the five days of demo and rebuild.

That's just wrong.

The screw is supposed to buried in concrete to prevent the threads from having to carry the load. I install them upside down because I like to be able to adjust things.

Are you on a well? Have you had the paranormal folks out to check? Call Jeralodo Rivera?

There are several manufacturers of boilers that are fueled by oil burners and wood burners. they're rated for indoor use and acknowledge that the same flue will be used for both fuels. Just the same, I'd clean the chimney twice a season to be safe. http://www.woodboilers.com/home-heating-systems.asp

One more thing. Avoid recessed lighting.

I'd just fill the rafter bays with icynene (if they're 2x4 rafters, scab on some sleepers to increase depth to at least 6 inches). Install foil faced rigid to create a thermal break so the drywall doesn't show the rafter outlines from ghosting,drywall and you're one. This method requires no venting.

I'm assuming that this is a shed roof with no shear walls. If that's the case the ledger should be bolted or lagged to existing framing. The bolt schedule would vary with anticipated wind loads, snow loads etc, but you'd be surprised at how many fasteners this application may call for. JLC had a very good article about a year ago (use the search feature) on attaching decks to homes, which is what this is albeit with less live load.

I've seen sections of old cast iron main lines that have been removed. For the most part the pipe is still in good condition, but the porous interior is the perfect spot for flora/fauna growth to make a home. The slime inside the sections I've seen was over two inches thick. I asked a smart guy I know why the chlorine didn't keep down the growth and he said that the chlorine actually causes the organisms to emit a mucous like substance that contributes to the bio film while protecting them from the chlorine. It was pretty darn gross.

If it smells like cat pee, it probably is. I'd ask for new.

I use ultraviolet lights to keep my 2,000 gallon fish pond free of algae. My Dad has a UV unit for his incoming water that's from a shallow well and had a high bacteria count. In both cases the water is pumped through a tube that contains the UV light and the water is exposed to the light from all angles. In both cases the results are excellent. UV lights have a life. After 2,000 hours of continuous use they'll go on emitting visible light, but the UV spectrum is only about 60% as powerful, after 4,000 hours they're essentially ordinary bulbs. The bulbs (for 40 watts) are about 50 dollars each and should be changed annually.

It should be schedule K copper.

Hi Joe, You can't buy one off the lot for 26 grand, but you can "build one" online and then take the spec sheet to the dealer and work him like a sore rib on price. That'd be for one with a radio and A/C only. As far as four wheel drive... I have it now, but I managed to live the first 42 years of my life without 4wd, and I suspect that I could manage it again. I'll miss it, but I won't miss using 60 gallons of fuel each week. My biggest needs are weight capacity (I have heavy hobbies) trailer tow capacity and fuel economy. I'm past the point of caring how I look going down the road and pure utility excites me.

http://www.fl-sprinter.com/ I've never bought a new vehicle, but this is one that I'm seriously considering if I can't find one that's been crashed to fix. They start around 26 thousand, have a 5 cylinder Mercedes diesel, veryshort turning radius, 1.2 ton load capacity, one of the best automatic transmissions ever made, get 28 mpg and they're pretty darn quick when you put your foot down. I've driven three that were owned by my customers (they love them) and the interior noise is pretty good for an empty van, they ride nice even empty. The braking system looks a little light, but has proven durable and dependable. A 24 foot extension ladder fits inside, I'm 6'1" and can stand inside, the rear doors open all the way around the body and latch on really strong magnets. Both bumpers have step holes for access to the roof for the 32 foot extension ladder. Around 26 thousand for the mid length model, 23 thousand for a cab and chassis if you want a pick up instead of a van. The sides are big and flat for rolling billboard signage.

Look at the galvanic scale. That's why.

Former client referral who used the report to negotiate 66,000 dollars off their purchase price. They didn't split the savings with me, even though the topic was briefly discussed. They thought I was kidding.

This weekend I am inspecting a 3000 square-foot home over three hours away. When my client signed the contract, he said that he could have had it done by a local inspector for $200. My minimum fee is $350, and I quoted $850 for this particular home which is a 150 years old. Reading this thread, it occurred to me that the local inspector would have to do over four inspections to generate the same revenue. Some people recognize the difference between value and price and those people are the ones I would like for clients. You won't find these clients by being the cheapest in town. It's much more satisfying to be paid to do an excellent job than it is to constantly struggle for the volume necessary that lower prices demand.

I don't write up brass nipples.

Agreed: make it a little more cheery. The links page could use some handier links too.

My house had three chimneys supported the way Bill's pic shows. My wife had a tantrum when I told her they were the reason the dining room floor was three inches out of level. I used the bricks to build a nice garden wall, but she still wasn't happy. I have to admit, the house looked better with them, but they were death to the structure.

Thanks very much. It looked old because it is. An air source heat pump in upstate NY is only effective when it's been installed in a price protected village where electricity is still 3 cents a KWH. Even at 3 cents, the bills were 250 a month for a 2,000 square foot home.

Trane model BWX730A100B0 Serial X40283433 Thanks very much

Thanks, I was pretty sure it was inadequate venting but I always feel better about making assertions after I get the opinions of smart people.

The plywood and some of the rafters looked almost burnt in this attic. There are some surfaces that are kind of crumbly. There were four roof vents each about 3/4 of a square foot venting the 1,000 square foot or so attic space. Before I report that the discoloration is caused by condensation/ dirt accumulation from inadequate ventilation I'd like to hear some other opinions. The house is just shy of 20 years old. Download Attachment: erinatticsmall.JPG 39.65 KB Download Attachment: erinatticsmall2.JPG 48.68 KB