Charles46

Depending upon the situation the IRC says no to roofing over. R907.3 Recovering versus replacement. New roof coverings shall not be installed without first removing all existing layers of roof coverings where any of the following conditions exist: 1. Where the existing roof or roof covering is water-soaked or has deteriorated to the point that the existing roof or roof covering is not adequate as a base for additional roofing. 2. Where the existing roof covering is wood shake, slate, clay, cement, or asbestos-cement tile. 3. Where the existing roof has two or more applications of any type of roof covering.

To follow up on Bill's statement, it depends upon what version of the code the area adheres to. Here where I am, we are still operating under the 2006 code and will not adhere to the 2012 IRC until Jan. 1, 2014 so any permit pulled prior to then will be under the 2006 code. I can recommend they upgrade to self closing hinges for safety purposes, and I do, but I can't say that it was built wrong.

Based upon the information provided and using the 1/300 rule as a guide you have a need for 12 sq ft of vent space. You currently have 11.5 sq ft of vent space, so as Jim said, unless you are having an issue that needs to be addressed specifically, leave things as they are. If you want to put holes in the balance of the end caps, and doing so would not affect things structurally, then adding an additional 5.6 sq ft of vent space your ratio of vent space to attic space would become something like 1/210. Again, as Jim put it "Are you experiencing any problems associated with this supposed imbalance of ventilation? If not, you don't need to do anything. If you are, then you need to address the problem specifically." If you have a problem, to address the problem, you should find the source of the problem and treat the source of the problem and not the symptoms of the problem.

As silly as that plumbing looks, depending upon where it is located, it could be interpreted as meeting minimum building requirements. IRC Section P3112 - Island Fixture Venting P3112.2 Vent connection. The island fixture vent shall connect to the fixture drain as required for an individual or common vent. The vent shall rise vertically to above the drainage outlet of the fixture being vented before offsetting horizontally or vertically downward. The vent or branch vent for multiple island fixture vents shall extend not less than 6 inches above the highest island fixture being vented before connecting to the outside vent terminal. Not saying this plumbing fixture does or does not comply, but I could see someone making the case that it does. Just some food for thought.

Unless the top outlet was controlled by a wall switch and the bottom outlet is always live. I see that in master bedrooms with some regularity.

Robert: I just took a walk through the plumbing code section of the IRC and I did not see anything that says it cannot enter the drain/waste system via an air break like you have. I am with Kurt on this. The way it is done is "not right", I would tell them such and recommend they get a second opinion from a plumber. Kind of like going to a general practitioner doctor who sees something in the test results that aren't right and doesn't feel comfortable sending you home without sending you to a specialist for further evaluation first.

This spring my wife and I decided to take a couple of days and visit Charleston, SC. While there we had to take in Patriots Point where we got to see the Clamagore, a sub built at the end of WWII, the USS Laffey (2) built and served in WWII after the first Laffey sunk at Guadalcanal in November 1942, and we got to see the USS Yorktown (CV10) that was built and served in WWII after CV5 was sunk at the battle of Midway in 1942. Click to Enlarge 53.54 KB Click to Enlarge 41.07 KB Click to Enlarge 31.49 KB

We use the Sun Nuclear 1028 and are happy happy happy.

That is what I was thinking, but the droppings are more liquid in nature. No substance to any of the "droppings.

Not sure what the spots are on the wall and floor. The plumbing is for a small hot water heater that was built into a small "storage attic" built into the office space. This is the only location in the building where these marks were observed. They seemed like some sort of splatter mark, but I have not seen these marks before so I was hoping someone with more experience than I might enlighten me as to what they might be. Thanks for your help and input. Download Attachment: DSCF0609.gif 375.54 KB Download Attachment: DSCF0612.gif 513.09 KB Download Attachment: DSCF0613.gif 450.58 KB

I use Serif Web Plus for building the site and FileZilla to upload to my server. In days past I used WebEasy to build the site, but found it time consuming and cumbersome. FileZilla has always been my way to upload to the server.

The last CRM I ordered from them was similiar. Prepay for the monitor, get an email saying it is a one month lead time, then day of expected shipment, get an email "updating" the shipping date to a week later. The "update" email was accurate. Scam or incompetent? I vote lacking competency. Some companies survive and even thrive in spite of themselves.

Upon further review, I think Mike has it right on this being a sprinkler head issue. It does not look like the sprinkler feed goes all the way to the hose on the wall and neither does the etching on the wall.

I would call it in a heartbeat. Like John said, "someday, somebody will get slapped with one of those" or someone will fall on a rotted one, and when they do, guess whose life they will want to make miserable if you do not report it.

Thanks for the replies and analysis.

Gentlemen: This was the view I got of multiple outlets, probably 40% of the outlets, within the home on today's inspection. Now sure what would have caused the black streaking on the outlets and covers. As you can see in the photo, it was only blackened on one of the outlets not both. All outlets function and all tested as being wired correctly. The house was built in 2005. I am thinking the house was hit by lightening at one point in time but that is solely a guess. Download Attachment: Outlet1.gif 208 KB

This is one of those where I would say we have undersized wire feeds, grounding issues, double tapped circuits, that these are considered safety issues. I would recommend these and any other problems that an electrical contractor may discover while performing repairs need correcting. Then I would recommend a licensed electrical contractor inspect further.

I have had it since day one. Did not even hang out my shingle until I had it. I consider it a cost of doing business and a cost to make sure I can stay in business. If someone can sue a fast food restaurant, and win, because she put a hot cup of coffee in her lap claiming the coffee was to hot...... Well far be it from me to thing some person won't get up on the wrong side of the bed one day and decide to take it out on me.

John: My advice would be to get the back up system. My reports are backed up using Carbonite as well as on the cloud with the software company. My laptop and my desktop both have the software I need to process my reports. As an additional backup, my wife's desktop is a mirror of mine. For me, I would rather go get the new computer after I got the report done, rather than rush to get the computer and rush to finish the report, but that's just me.

If the unit is a heat pump, even at this time of the year it can produce condensate, I know mine does in Georgia. Either way, having the water heater and TPR valve checked is a good thing, and having the HVAC system serviced is a good thing.

Could very well be the condensate line for your HVAC system.

Rob I am with you on this that the local AHJ or municipality has final say. I have seen a similar question posed on other HI forums and guys have debated the issue till they were blue in the face. We have one municipal inspector around here that wants a particular item done a certain way. Building code does not say it has to be done. Manufactures do not say it needs to be done. However, he will not sign off on it till it is done. He wins every time.

The original question does not state where the bath exhaust fans terminate in the attic. Just that they vented directly to the attic. Last I knew, the inside of the roof deck and the soffit area were part of the attic. Download Attachment: APDC1999.gif 194.15 KB

My primary moisture meter is an Extech MO260 combination Pin/Pinless Moisture meter.

The problem is the fans are dumping the moisture from the bathrooms into the attic and not to the outside. This is an item that should be corrected. I have seen other homes in Georgia, homes less than 10 years old, where that has been done and found nice little sections of mold and fungus where they are venting. Some things, whether they were permissible or not when the home was built, just need to be corrected and this is one of them.