monte

Very good article

I have a Protimeter SM and here is a good book on moisture and meter readings that Protimeter engineers recommended. "Dampness in Buildings Second Edition by T.A. Oxley and E.G. Gobert" Costs about $35.00

Mike Nice report. A lot of Foreman's never look at a detail drawing.

Donald, I do not mine, for you saw the whole PEX setup. I should have asked if the downward bend was fasten to a stud, but I figure it was because of your experience and you not asking in your question. End of subject for me.

I understand where you are coming from. Have had the same problems in the past with builders and I am sure I will experience it again in the future. Thank you

Chris; Like they say " You have express your opinion and I have express mine". After reading again the General Recommendation - Comment #3 "Use clamps or straps at tubing bends directly from connections", reading the Instruction Guide page 7 (At your PEX site) and looking at the photo again My opinion remains the same. "The holes in the studs are acting as a strap"

I agree with Richard about no value support. Cris: The way I see the installation, the holes in the studs are acting as a strap. The maximun horizontal spacing for pipe support for PB, PE-AL-PE, PEX, PEX-AL-PEX is 32"

The labeling of the neutral with the white tape would not fly in our City or County (white, gray, white stripe only), also can not see the other end in the so called gutter.

Mike, Good information, I really like the decoding chart.

Jim Morrison web site is right. Like they say “First, test the balance of the door (see "Testing and Maintaining the Garage Door."). If the door is properly balanced, then proceed" It sounds like everyone does not do Step Number 1. I have always instructed our Inspectors to check the balance of the overhead door before testing the operator. The 2X4 method works better because the hand method can sometimes unravel the wire on the spool. The "Down Force Adjustment Screw" is used to counteract the tension on the springs after the balance point, so that the door can be closed.

I have never heard of that method of construction for a slab. I have used visqueen on top of a slab for curing instead of a chemical spray. Tim Do you have any pictures of a slab prior to placing the flooring material with this method of construction?

If you ducting is in the attic, I would add more insulation over the ducting (Ducting is either a R4 or R8) instead of cooling your attic. Up here they have a R40 in the attic. Manufacture homes have a R50. Blow-in insulation is cheap return on your investment.

Here are two that we use Office 995 (PDF995) FREE and DocuPrinter this one costs about $29 both PDF converters are excellent.

I have seen 30 days to 6 months, just depends on the product. Here is from Grace. Installation of the roof covering can proceed immediately following underlayment application. Grace Tri-Flex 30 cannot be used as a primary roof covering. The product is not designed for permanent outdoor exposure. The installation of the final roof covering should take place within 6 months. Mike link also has 6 months. Chris Take a look at the back side of the label and it most likely will tell you the exposure time for that product.

I will call you this morning around 10:00.

I am tired of it too. Homnspector I looked in by 2003 IBC Code book and could not find "Section ae504 Structural additions, also try finding the definition for "Accessory buildings" in the UBC and IBC, nothing. Have this AHJ show you the Section and the definition for "Accessory building". A lot of jurisdictions still do not require a permit for decks and for Manufacture Homes they leave that up to the State Division of Manufactured Homes to Inspect not the local jurisdiction because of that "Real" and "Personel Property" classification.

Homnspector, ae504.1 General. Accessory buildings shall not be structurally supported by or attached to a manufactured home. Is a deck classified as a "ACCESSORY BUILDING" by this code? If it is it's a new one on me. Email me with your telephone number and I will talk to you directly. The HI might have known about the manufacture's 10 year warranty on the structual system (Most read, No attachment's to structure) Most of the time it means a garage, room addition, some patio's. Mike, The system you just describe is a supported deck system. Remove the joists hangers and you deck will still stand. Now if you removed the mid-span support and had it hanging off the joists hangers (which are attach) and supported by the outboard end this whould be a directly attached system to the manufactured home.

Mike I don't see what you are disagreeing over. The deck design that you describe "The actual amount being supported by the rim joist isn't more than about 4 or 5 feet before there is an intermediate post and beam supporting the deck. As long as it is properly flashed to keep out water and properly bolted to the rim joist, I don't see where attaching a deck to it will be an issue." The deck design that you discribe is not attached directly to the manufactured home but is being supported by the intermediate post and beam that is anchor to the rim joist, which the deck is attached too. The question was "Does anybody know if attachment of a deck directly to a mobile home is allowed? [My answer is Yes and No] Do the decks have to be absolutely self supporting? [My answer is Yes and No]

It all depends on whether the home is classified as REAL or PERSONEL Property. REAL property meets the HUD manufactured home "Permananent Foundation Guide - Sept 1996". If the manufacture home has been placed on a permanent foundation (As define by the HUD "Permananent Foundation Guide - Sept 1996") then Yes for the attachment. The attached deck live and dead load is transfered to the permanent foundation. If the manufacture home does not meet the HUD Sept 1996 Standards then I would say NO, it would have to be self supporting. The joists are already cantileving over the chassis beams by 3' and when you add the extra dead load of the deck and live load of people on the deck, I believe that you would exceed the load reguirements of the manufacture home floor joist.

Jim Yes to Pole Barns, Machine Sheds NEVER on a home as you describe the construction. Same question was asked over at Inspectonnews.com, here is the link http://inspectionnews.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/000070.html (Metal Roofs) The construction method you asked about is also a defect, which I hope you placed in you report.

Les, I see that you do not need a ladder for adjustment.

We always had the screw on top just like all the other types of jacks that we used.

Just some other questions, Is the Fire Dept flushing fire hydrants in your area? Is the city working on repairing water mains in your area? Was the shower line recently installed? Can you drain the shower line, to clean it out.

Mike I did not make the call on the number that the GFCI protects, but a electrician happen to be doing some extra wiring for my friend and I ask him the question.. Like I said before back in my brain I have always used GFCI + 3. This is the first time that I ran across that many on a circuit (GFCI + 10 & GFCI + 6) This was not any type of a Inspection, just one friend to another showing off different tools of the trade. Mike, also the new Tramex Survey Encounter Moisture Meter Bill There was not any boxes or instructions laying around for me to check, but I will check different manufacture sites to see if I can get that info. Kurt Thanks for your responce Jeff Thanks for the link

How many receptacles can one GFCI serve? I always thought that it was three + the GFCI. I have found a kitchen (Home built May 2005) with one GFCI serving 5 other receptacles. The garage GFCI was serving 8 receptacles and the two exterior receptacles. The building dept has released the home to the owner in June 2005. The electrican claims that it is to code. I do not mine eating dirt if I am wrong.