Kyle Kubs

Steven, Help yourself to the picture. If you want a generic version you can look up "z-vent" one of the manufacturers of this type of vent pipe. http://www.novaflex.com/productcart/pc/ ... roduct=418 The one I posted was not vented to a gas line per-say but to a plumbing waste drain pipe (source of Sewer gas which of course contains a fair percentage of methane gas) The drain line needs to have a trap on it to act as a seal. I'd imagine the one you pictured must have been venting exhaust gases through that nipple without a traped drain on it. Also, note in the manufacturers manual that I posted the drain is required to be a high temp Silicone tubing for the first 18 inches (not the clear, flamable vinyl my jackass friend used)

Steven, Help yourself to the picture. If you want a generic version you can look up "z-vent" one of the manufacturers of this type of vent pipe. http://www.novaflex.com/productcart/pc/ ... roduct=418 The one I posted was not vented to a gas line per-say but to a plumbing waste drain pipe (source of Sewer gas which of course contains a fair percentage of methane gas) The drain line needs to have a trap on it to act as a seal. I'd imagine the one you pictured must have been venting exhaust gases through that nipple without a traped drain on it. Also, note in the manufacturers manual that I posted the drain is required to be a high temp Silicone tubing for the first 18 inches (not the clear, flamable vinyl my jackass friend used)

Even though it is not a condensing boiler it does have a propensity to produce condensate in the exhaust stream and a provision to drain it before it runs down and rots the heat exhanger is required by many manufacturers. What you have is a Jackasses version of the listed fitting that should be there. It has to be a horizontal drain T, the whole section of pipe is shaped to catch condensate running back in the pipe. Download Attachment: WM_cgiboilermanual.pdf 143.29 KB This is what should be there. Image Insert: 747.7 KB However I would not recommend following the example of this particular jackass in the way he decided to drain the condensate. Image Insert: 846.66 KB Oddly enough the city inspector did not see anything wrong with connecting a source of methane gas (the sewer drain line on the right) to the combustion chamber of this boiler... (we had a few words over this one) Just two weeks ago I was on a site monitoring the install of 3 similar boilers in a multifamily. Really long exhaust runs, no drain T. I mentioned it to the plumber who responded "this is not a condensing boiler, we do all of them like this" I asked him, if there is no issue with condensate, then why is the vent required to be Stainless Steel... He got a blank look on his face, then I showed him the page in the manual. He wasn't happy.

Beyond the insulation issue, there is the issue of the wiring that feeds the fixture. Older cable with low temperature insulation (Loomex) is not allowed to be directly wired to the fixture, but should terminate in a junction box, I believe 18 inches away (don't quote me on that one), and new wiring run from there into the hook up. I also sometimes find these to be the only source I can come up with for moisture problems in an attic. The vented cans move something like 15CFM of air from the living space into the attic, put 8 or 10 of those in a kitchen with a family that eats a lot of rice... combine with a poorly vented attic. Bango, Mold.

??? [:-bigeyes

I just call it the slot, thats supposed to be up there, but never is... If I see a flashing actually grouted in on more then every 40th inspection or so, that's a lot.

I concur, Shot. And if they think it aint shot, shoot it a few times. Then it'll leak for sure. That e'll learn em. Thread shift, Hey, let's see some pics of this smokehouse Chad. I've been dreamin of building a smokehouse, soon as my scuba diving starts turnin up a few more fish & their friends then is has been... Which isn't much. Hell I've got the maple & hickory growin like weeds all over the place here. Currently just feeding them to the wood stove & smoker/grill.

Years ago I started out working for a guy that bought the Pillar to Post franchise rights to the County where I live. Took a couple weeks to realize that even after doing inspections for over 3 years at that point, the things this guy didn't know about the major systems in a home were truly frightening. He & his flunkies have been sued almost a dozen times over the last several years. I looked around at the operation and decided, the more distance between me and that company the better... I'll tell you this though, if there is anyone at all that is fully trained in the art of pandering to RE agents, its a pillar to post guy. I think the franchise trains their people more in marketing their business and covering their tales (misspelled on purpose) then it does in actual inspection. And the agents around here soak em up! "He's not alarmist..." Oddly enough when licensing became mandatory in this State it took him four tries to pass the easiest test I've ever seen. "Big Hair Betty's..." Ha![:-bigmout[:-bigmout[:-bigmout

""MAINTENANCE ISSUE (MI): The item, component, or system while perhaps functioning as intended is in need of minor service or maintenance; is showing signs of wear or deterioration that could result in an adverse condition at some point in the future; or considerations should be made in upgrading the item, component, or system to enhance the function, efficiency, safety, and/or more closely align with current construction standards. Items falling into this category can frequently be addressed by a homeowner or handyman and are considered to be routine homeowner maintenance or recommended upgrades. However, it is recommended that all work be completed by qualified individuals or companies."" My God. Does anybody have any syrup? I smell waffles! Personally I'm frightened to hear a Home Inspector use the term "Alarmist"... Now Kevin, I beg to differ with your statement about Nobody anywhere in MA VA or DC area using conduit, as I've looked at quite a number of homes in VA just outside of DC and have not yet seen one that did not have the wiring properly enclosed in conduit as IS required by NEC. I've looked at homes in Fairfax, Centreville, Chantilly, Manassas... and none were so poorly built as to have sheathed cable exposed to physical damage like that. If they were, I definitely would have made a stink about it. My sister lives in Centreville off route 29, the entire development where she lives, built in the late 80's is wired with conduit. (around 300 homes) I've been through all the surrounding areas for 25 miles. Same. You keep saying that you don't know about other areas, but in your area it's always like this and that seems to make it OK. Is electricity not dangerous in your area?? Because it is in mine... And I don't pander to real estate agents to get more referrals. I prefer to walk away with my integrity in tact and know that I'm not going to be the cause of someone's child being killed one day. "subjective" and "open to interpretation" Protection is absolutely required - it's practically laying on the ground... Do you have weed wackers down there? Of course even if it was ok I'd still write it up just for the fact that I've been doing electrical work all my life and would sooner cut my own hand off than put my name on slop ass work like that. Just my $30.- (.02 adjusted for inflation)

Kyle, Excellent drawings. They explain the issue perfectly. - Jim Katen, Oregon Thank You, Hair hurts... LOL - I've had days like that.

I had a little time on my hands so here is something for those of you who learn visually like me... It helps to have a basic understanding of the physics of a simple transformer. A primary coil that induces a magnetic field (flux) in a iron/steel core, the magnetic flux induces a current in a secondary coil. This is how voltage is stepped down or up. Half the number of windings in a secondary coil will take the half the voltage of the primary coil... With that said, hope this helps. Download Attachment: 1_Phase_Coil.pdf 22.51 KB Download Attachment: 3_Phase_Delta.pdf 40.99 KB Download Attachment: 120v_Single_Phase.pdf 38.8 KB Download Attachment: 240v_Single_Phase.pdf 39.01 KB Download Attachment: 240v_Sinlge_Phase_Alt.pdf 39.96 KB Download Attachment: Hot_Leg.pdf 39.81 KB Jims latest link actually explains the separation of Phases fairly well so I will leave it here.

One other thing to consider with the non barrier PEX and even some of the non Alum. barrier, is that it usually has a ridiculous thermal expansion ratio. Some of them will grow as much as a couple of feet/100' from cold to hot.

I'm on the "boiler dosen't match the house" side. at least in my area it wouldn't. May have been a left over from the bargain bin that some builder got a deal on... I'd say it was made in the late 20's - early thirties at the latest. Now to the thread splitter. - Did you say piped in oil??? as in supplied from the street?

I'm in complete agreement with Chad. In the right conditions Alum. will last "long enough" and that is probably the key here. Stainless is the best way to do it but like the boilers that used to last 50-60 years, nowdays 15-20 is fine. And as Chad says, the probability of condensation is the key factor. If the boiler isn't sized right or set up properly it may short cycle a lot and the Alum. will be doomed in a short time.

Just a guess here - This is a relatively new 1980-1990's development home??? To answer your question it's a "could be any damned thing and has no valid purpose for anything" thing.

intra-network discussion forum???? and dig out my comments from 1996 - 1998 time frame??? Where would I find the intra-network discussion forum? Part of this site?

Tell him you want to see a copy of his license... I doubt he has one. If he does take down the # & name and send it with the pictures & property address to the State board that issues his license, cause he needs to loose it. That panel is a disgrace.

I agree - an old off peak meter. Their everywhere around here. The second panel, is it all 220 circuits for electric baseboard?

In doing electrical work over the years I have found panels in this condition where you could turn the breaker off and it would not disengage the connection, leaving power on. Breaking open the offending breakers you often find them sopping wet and heavily corroded. When I find a panel in this condition I typically sum it up as such "Water intrusion in the electrical panel has caused corrosion of panel components, main feed connections and breaker terminals. Water intrusion into breakers is obvious. Have all panel components checked & cleaned and all breakers checked for proper function, replacing any damaged components. Investigate and repair source of water intrusion to prevent further damage. Have all work done only by a Licensed Electrician." I also typically know I'm about to find this condition during the outside inspection when I see the condition of the seal around the SEC into the top of the meter base or an old Loomex SEC. If that is the obvious source of water I recommend the meter be pulled to check the terminals in the meter socket for corrosion. In the past I have found they can be in worse shape then the panel. Depending on the seller/sellers agent I may be more explicit about the licensed electrician and may also recommend I be asked to return to re-inspect the repairs. All too often some idiot seller will call me and say... "well, all I have to do is take a wire brush to the terminals, right?"

Hey! Thats my line...

I don't think I'd have much fun trying to crawl around some of the crawlspaces here with that on.

No Kidding.. Now thats one I never would have figured on.

Second that. Any space requirements they have surely are not based on it being surrounded by six other units on all sides blowing heat out and preventing any unit from pulling ambient temp. air. I have a Frigidaire install manual .pdf I can post it if you want but here is the section your looking for. Preferred Location of the Outdoor Unit at the Job Site — Conduct a survey of the job site to determine the optimum location for mounting the outdoor unit. Overhead obstructions, {poorly ventilated areas}, and areas subject to accumulation of debris should be avoided. The outdoor unit should be installed no closer than 18 inches from the outside walls of the facility and in an area free from overhead obstructions to {{ensure unrestricted airflow through the outdoor unit}}.

More than regional, there is likely also a budget factor. When it was available is one thing but when did builders typically start deciding it was worth it to pay extra for the higher grade stuff is another. Around my part of the world the s4s lumber seems to be prevalent in the mid to later thirties and on. Most of mid to late 20's houses around here have rough sawn lumber. Back up to around 1910 and it was rough sawn and still half green.

Yes it was the Stab-loc breakers & no Brian, I think I'll pass on the fork thing... I like my hair the way it is. Talking about it later with my assistant I was just glad there was another, non-FPE breaker protecting that panel or we might have started a fire. Always look at the retaining screw as you go to plug something into a receptacle with a metal faceplate. If it's missing or really loose you may be about to have an experience.