StevenT

How old would you guess this boiler to be? Image Insert: 56.9 KB I'm feeling 40 years... more?

KEWL!

Yes, the problem has been fixed Mike B. hit it right on the head. I am noticing that some things that are necessary have also been removed and I've had to have Dell reinstall some programs. All is well.

I do not test TPRs, or water mains, nor do I reset breakers that I have not intentionally blown. But if you want to do so and are concerned about it not sealing, keep a bucket nearby or have a hose that can slip over the drain tube and reach a bucket or a sink. It will give you enough time to close the valve on the heater or boiler. If you shut the water on the boiler, shut off the power too. Don't burn yourself. If a TPR valve is leaking, prior to tweaking the lever, the problem is not necessarily the valve. If could be the expansion tank or the water pressure regulator.

Brandon, I also see dielectric fittings, but I think I see more brass to copper. Either way, it's a jumper across the water heater. Matthew, I've never seen that type of yoke either. I don't think it has anything to do with jumping.

The jumper across the meter, like in illustration B, is there in to ensure continuity the event that the meter is removed, and in A, it is there so there is continuity across a non conductive material. At a water heater, it is there in the event the heater is removed.

My Uncle Izzy started this tradition. He used to take my older brother and me with him on New Year's Eve. We did so well, we started the Chinese doing it too. It was convenient, a couple of weeks later, another payday

Thank you very much for your concern, Last night Norton (Symantic) got in touch with me and it appears that they figured out the problem, only time will tell. By the way, like you suggested, they installed Firefox, and explained it was a more secure browser to use. So far, so good. I will mention one thing that I'm noticing right now as I'm writing this response. There is now a "spellchecker" that is underlining my errors as I type. I don't know if that has always been here, or if it's part of Firefox, but I've never noticed it before. Wow!!! Thanks again, StevenT

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So, I've tried everything. I even went to Norton, as Walter and a few others suggested. Actually, Norton told me that I had a virus and for $100.00 they would rid my computer of it, and then for another $60 bucks install Norton360 to protect me from future viruses. I paid the $100.00, they took over my computer for three hours and were unable to figure out the problem. The technician said he would have to pass it on to their "Elite Team" and that they would contact me within 48 hours with an answer. Ten days have pastand they haven't gotten back to me yet. I called them back yesterday, they said it was sent to the Elite team and they they would contact me soon. Today I bought an external hard drive. I am now saving my important files and next week I am going to reformat my hard drive. Dell tells me that will solve my problem. I hope so.

Jim, Thank you for the clarification. From the very beginning I was not comfortable with calling it "rated at 110" amps. I was not as confident and as good at putting it into words as you are, but I just knew that I could not make such a statment, and preferred to simply describe the fault.

Eric, I agree that the service is rated at 110 amps, since in this case the SEC is the weakest link, and it is rated at 110. If it were a 3/0 SEC with a 100 amp breaker, it would still be rated at 100 Amp, but it would not be dangerous. Either way, the service is rated at 110amp (100) So, for me to simply state that the service is rated @ 110 amps makes me uncomfortable. I would want to word whatever I inserted in a way that makes it perfectly clear that it is not only not right, but it is dangerous.

The circuit breaker limits the amount of power that is allowed to pass through. A 200 amp breaker will allow 200 amps of power to pass through. This is more than #3 wire is rated for and can handle, so it is over fused. The breaker on the downstream side of the SE cable, limits the amount of power being drawn through the cable. So, a 200 amp breaker protecting #3 SE cable is not good. The breaker on the upstream side of the circuit wire limits the amount of power being drawn into the wire. If a main panel has no main breaker. There should be a main breaker limiting the amount of power being drawn, upstream of the panel. If a 200 amp breaker is installed before a main panel that can be shut off with up to 6 main disconnects, and does not require a single main disconnect, the individual disconnects limit the amount of power being drawn, and the 200 amp breaker is acting as nothing more than a shut off switch for everything. I have trouble saying that a service with #3 SEC and a 200 amp breaker is rated at 110 amps. I might say: The 200 amp main breaker is being fed by a service entrance cable that is only rated for up to 110 amps. This is a fire hazard and should be corrected immediatly by a licensed electrician.

That was easy!

I hate having to dial 411 from the road. I found out about this today. Check it out. []

Neglecting to rasp the eps board after it was installed.

Try cleaning at least a portion of the area and see if it reoccurs.

I use observations too. I have also used "findings" and "conditions"

Hey Kimball, What Rich says is on the money, but to tell you the truth, I sometimes find the different charts and dates a bit confusing and sometimes the codes don't seem to work. When I'm not sure, I usually call the mfg. and they will pinpoint the date and whatever else I wish to find out.

BINGO! Hey Jim, Nice to see you around. I hope you are well. No doubt, this is beyond lame and is as wrong as wrong can be. Thank you for the code reference.

Rob, What you describe was in the next closet, louvered doors and all, conditioning the space it is located in. What I am saying is this was located in a first floor apt, cooling a 2nd, 3rd floor apt... the air returning through the louvered doors is not from the space the unit is cooling/heating. There were no return vents at all in the upstairs apt. The only air being returned is what can escape out under the front door of the upstairs apt, down the stairs and escape back in under the front door of the apt below. I don't see too much hot air doing that. I

I inspected a house today that although it had a place to put a filter, there was no filter there... just a big open hole. The strange part was there was no return. Unit was on first level, in tenants apt, cooling 2nd, 3rd floors. Image Insert: 32.45 KB

Chad, what are u doing up so early?

Tell him to put that furnace in his house. You want a new one.

The texture could be EIFS and the basecoat/finish could be the same material used with EIFS (polymer based or modified). If it is installed directly on CMU's, regardless of the mesh, basecoat or finnish, it is not EIFS. It would also require the eps or xps board (stryrofoam). If your were able to stick your probes in an inch and it sounds hollow, it is EIFS. The reason I stated in my original post that it looks like it is installed directly on CMU's, is because when looking at the picture of the window sill, I believe I see the "hollows" of the blocks.