StevenT

I agree that there should be a kick out flashing, there should also be 2" clearance between the EIFS and the roof deck. At best. that is a very difficult place to flash and/or seal. Ditto what Kurt says too. I seen some jobs that were worse than others, but I've never been able to say "hey, they did it right."

Hey, My ex wife had a mark like that on her back.

Hi Dom, Great to see you here at TIJ. I see you are now working about 20 hours a day. I'm glad you have been able to slow down a bit. Guys, Dom has helped me set up my EIFS website. As I mentioned in other threads, after about 3 or 4 weeks, I show up #1 when I do a search in any area that I have targeted.

Although I do not use an Apple computer, I do use Home Inspector Pro software and am very happy with it. I find it very customizable and easily adaptable to my needs and style of report writing. Although it sets up and performs like a check list, it also is narrative friendly. It is constantly being improved and I, just like every other user of the program is involved in it's development. Since I admittedly am a computer dinosaur, another important part of the program that I find extremely valuable is the support. Dom has responded to my cries for help at all hours on all days. When he isn't in the office, rarely does it take more than a few minutes to receive a call back from him. Sometimes the call would come while he was driving or having dinner... but it always came. I recently built a new website with him. It's only a few weeks old and already ranks #1 when I do a search in ANY area that I have targeted. My original website never showed up at all.

Hey John, How are you tonight? Thanks for the response. Which company do you use? Is there a sign up fee?

Although I didn't intend to, I'm considering offering Home Warranties with inspections. I got in touch with HWA... through TIJ (I let them know that it was a TIJ referral). Anyway, I'm wondering if any of you guys are offering this service and if you do, how do you market it? The way I see it, there are three possibilities. 1. Include it in my existing price as a "lost leader" and hope to get more business. I really don't like this idea, as I will make less money per inspection. I work very hard when I do an inspection and already feel home inspections are underpriced. If I can't make a decent profit for my work, I would rather go fishing. 2. Charge more and include it with every inspection. 3. Offer it as an option and charge more for it. My other question is, for those that do offer it and charge additional for it, do you offer it at cost or do you add something on for yourself? If yes, how much?

I got rid of the red/black and changed to a theme that I like much better. If you check it out, I'm sure you'll agree. eifsinspectionsnewyork.com The guy that's providing the service is really helpful. Even though it's basically a DIY site, he is forever helpful and improving his product. I can't count how many times he has "taken control" of my computer and done in ten minutes what would have taken me a month... or never. Now some results... When I enter ANY area that I targeted (such as brooklyn eifs inspector) into my browser, my site shows up number one (after the sponsored sites) and/or multiple times. This is only after a few weeks. I am getting ready to build a HI site with him and plan on dropping my other site.

The answer you want is probably on the schematic in the picture, too small for me to see. Because of where it is and how it is wired, from here, I'd guess it's some sort of shut off safety switch. Perhaps it detects heat of spill back of fumes.

That's a good question to ask the person that gave the estimate. If the person that typed the report doesn't understand construction, they may have misunderstood his instructions when preparing the paperwork. Have it corrected. I usually end up preparing my own estimates and giving the secretary a copy to paste into the company computer. I've also seen proposals written by contractors that do not have good writing skills either. Some are very confusing... sometimes on purpose. Most homeowners do not have enough construction knowledge and end up not getting what they thought they were or paying for something they didn't plan on either. Your friend is lucky to have you.

I agree wholeheartedly that drip edge is the way to go. It's cheap and easy to install... when installed prior to the roofing, it can be a pain to retrofit. It amazes me how often... almost always... it's left off. Even on the most expensive homes.

I'm working on a new web site and would love some critique. It's the first one that I've done on my own... almost on my own. It's dedicated solely to EIFS, for SEO reasons. Next I will attempt a new home inspection site. I'm far from finished, still needs editing, additional text, content and photos. This is like a first dress rehearsal. I'm putting together a slide show, and looking for more links, etc. If anyone can recommend any or anything, please do. Click on Certified Eifs Inspections New York in my signature.

The layer with the drastic color change is due to separate pours, maybe even different concrete companys or different strengths of concrete too. When I am trying to match concrete, I find I have a better shot at it if I use the same company. The other line that is almost level looks like a form joint. It difficult to be sure from the picture. Like Les says, a good home inspection will tell you that plus more. If you are seriously considering purchasing this or any other home, you really should know what you are buying. With the price of real estate being what it is, it will be money well spent.

Hi Erby, If they are sistered because of sagging, especially if they're sagging because of the weight/span, I don't have too much faith in them. But, If the are sistered as nailers because the seams of the sheathing don't fall out right, well, I see that quite a bit, and I don't have a problem with it.

Hi Neal, The old panel is feeding the sub meter, and some lighting circuits, The meter is feeding another newer sub panel with 4-15 amp breakers and is coming back from the panel tied into some of the old existing circuits. If you look at the new subpanel, you will see the lugs are jumped, creating a 120v panel. By counting the hots and neutrals, you can see a multi wire circuit has been created, but the hots are not connected to breakers that are tied together. I must tell you, the set up really had my head spinning. I wish I had more time to play with it. Since I was calling for total rewiring, I didn't spend more time on the box. The door was all wood, but the inside of the box was lined with metal. Image Insert: 69.09 KB

Yes.

Hey Rich, Yeah, nice effect. Also the top socket is actually being backfed too, and is hot on both sides. Perhaps that is why it's empty. Do you think I was "overzealous" by recommending total upgrade of the electrical system.

During today's inspection in a +130 year old building, I opened up a wooden box mounted in a closet, Image Insert: 49.88 KB and found this: Image Insert: 91.5 KB

OK Chad, Thank you for answering my question. Let's take it further. What effect will this configuration have on the system? On the machinery? Will the conductor that is being used to energize the light will run hot? Also, I'm trying to picture how the light is wired. Since there is only hot (2) and ground, is the neutral of the light hooked up to the ground? I can't see any other way of doing it. In which case, any time the light is on, the grounding conductor and anything attached to it is energized and anyone that touches any part of the grounding system or anything it is bonded to... including the machine is going to get zapped. Why doesn't the breaker trip?

Chad, Since you have experience with these machines, have you ever had a problem because of the lack of a neutral? Or, do you feel that the difference in the eletcrical draw to be minimal and of no consequence? All this talk about grounding, grounded, ground... earth, wind and fire has me dizzy. I believe that other than the fact that there is no neutral... and yes, there should be, that the panel is wired properly. Of course there may be a fault elsewhere related to this panel that can't be seen in the photo. So, I'll go on the pretense that all else is ok.

Who's on first?

Not that I carry it, but maybe I'll start. Anyway, in my communications/electronics toolbox, I keep a tone generator, a "banana" and a telephone handset. In a case like the one you mention, if you put a tone generator on the wires coming out of the outlet, you could easily trace it back to the GFI.

I would think not, especially since the horizontals would allow water to stand and eventually get in. Not that this is much better.

So, you agree that the panel is wired wrong. There should be a neutral for the 120, regardless of the minimal amout of draw.

On any box, if a hot lead feeding the box gets loose and touches the enclosure it will get hot. As far as a leg getting loose from one of the circuit breakers, if it were 120, no. But since this is 240, if one leg gets loose it can still carry current being back fed. I would still like an answer as to the "urgency" of a neutral, since the machinery still has 120 being used. Is Jim on vacation?

Just like a clothes dryer or electric stove who's element runs on 220/240, but has controls that operate on 120, there really should be a neutral. Now if you are only running a light bulb the size of a Xmas light, does it really make a difference? I would say technically it still does, but it is such a little draw that it may not be an issue. I don't see how the difference would be transferred to the ground. I'm curious as to what the others feel regarding this issue.