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You're correct, they do sell the yellow gas line tape, but that doesn't answer the question of the white tape not being allowed. We have so many other things to look for, adding something like this would be far down the list.

Rob, I'm not doubting your knowledge or your experience with this stuff, but when you say white joint tape is not allowed on gas lines are you talking about the manufacturers specs or is it code? What about this stuff? http://www.sealtape.com/ptfe_hdwhite.html

I have a question. A friend of mine asked me to look at an inspection report for a house that he's selling. Here's what the inspector wrote regarding teflon tape: "White Teflon tape used on gas pipe connections is forbidden, because small pieces of tape can get shredded during assembly, break off and flow downstream to block the gas valve. There's a special yellow Teflon tape and compounds available for gas piping and you should have this condition evaluated by a licensed plumber-water heater supply line" It sounds like he's talking about the gas line to the water heater, which I'm assuming is black iron. I have never heard of teflon tape being illegal. Am I missing something or is he making this up?

Why do you say that? - Jim Katen, Oregon Apparently it's an older tank. In picture #2 there's a sign that says new hot water tank, but under it on the service sticker, there's a hand written note saying it was installed in 1998. I wouldn't replace it unless it was leaking.

What is the defintition of bonding? Can a sub-panel ever be bonded past the service equipment? Why or why not?

Most shingle manufacturers will call blistering normal and cosmetic. The problem comes in when they open, exposing the matting. Here's what Tamco has to say http://www.tamko.com/Portals/0/document ... -29-09.pdf

I'm sorry. I misunderstood your point. I thought the deck was nicely put together compared to some of the stuff I've been seeing lately. The homeowner of this deck swears he paid someone to build it, but I suspect otherwise...but you never know. Click to Enlarge 64.82 KB Click to Enlarge 44.47 KB Click to Enlarge 56.04 KB

That's a deck built by pros. Nice. Here's a photo of a deck built by a resident in my jurisdiction. He'd never built anything before. I answered a few of his questions then handed him a prescriptive deck building document I copied from somewhere and a Simpson Deck Accessory Catalog. He's pretty proud and I told him I'd share the photos with you folks. Darren's photo is why I don't use the terms professional or amateurish in my reports any longer. I still use "crappy" or "built by a fourth grader". Click to Enlarge 51.71 KB Chad please elaborate on this deck. From the limited view that we see in the picture, what about it didn't you like? Maybe some sway bracing? How tall was the deck off of the ground? The only thing that looks a little strange is how he attached the beams to the posts with those connectors, but it looks like he used these http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/DJTZ.asp Though it would be nice to see some through bolts. Just curious. Tony

I have a question about a panel in a newer townhome. The service equipment for this system is located outside of the building in the electric meter cabinet. The panel is located in the garage. As you can see in the picture, the bond screw is installed and needs to come out. What about the GEC? It's attached to a water line in the basement, near the water meter. Does this have to come off as well? Thanks for your help. Tony Click to Enlarge 50.24 KB

I'm not sure I'd even call it a trap. At least a typical "S" trap will hold water. Not this one.

I know things are done different around the country, but shouldn't there be either a keyway or maybe even some rebar in the footing to tie the foundation to the footing? I know it can be added later, but to me it would be logical to added during the pour. Tony

Well isn't the downspout doubling as the vent. I see no need for the AAV.[:-taped]

No. In my experience, it's usually because of loose connections. Loose connections will definitely create high resistance, but couldn't a shared neutral do this as well?

Where do you guys get these cool graphics?

That's admirable and I agree with you, but unless you make it very clear that you expect him to back off, it's more than likely you'll get more of the same.

John, just curious, if this guy spoke to you like that, why would you even consider doing another job for him? IMO this is a big red flag with no signs of getting better. I know it's easy for all of us to say what we would've done after the fact, but I'm fairly certian that if an agent spoke me that way, I'd tell him to find someone else (after I told him where to plant his lips and after I got paid for the first job). I don't need a job that bad.

I think he may be referring to the cocktail stir in the ground slot. That's funny.

Hi Jim, In his first post he mentioned something about using the shingle panels. It does look like a poor installation (not to mention that it's plain old ugly), but the possibility of it leaking seems small unless the butt joints are aligned (which are not visible). Here's the installation instructions http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/install/ ... e_west.pdf They mention staggering the joints in the individual shingles, but not the panels. I agree with others about sending a picture to the manufacturer and getting their opinion.

I agree with Chad. The roof with the greater watershed should overlap the roof with lesser watershedding ability. Here's a page from CertianTeeds' shingle applicators manual. There's no way to tell when or even if that valley would leak or not, but the odds are greater when it's installed improperly. Tony Download Attachment: Closed cut valley.pdf 81.05 KB

I use mine to get a glimpse of what the water pressure to the building is, but mainly to see check to see if the exterior frost-free spigots are cracked, usually from freezing. Turn on the water to an exterior spigot and it will flow fine, until some pressure is applied (like attaching a gauge or hose or just holding your thumb over the nozzle). If it's cracked, you won't get any pressure (or very little) because the water's leaking into the building.

Out to dinner last week, my son and I made a trip to the bathroom and he asked me the same question. Being a dad, I didn't want to look like I didn't know and I couldn't pass up an opportunity to mess with him, so I told him it was a camera. I said that there's a person in another room that's watching him go and when you finish, they press a button to flush the toilet. His eyes got as big a silver dollar pancakes. I let him off the hook after a couple of minutes, but I think the damage has already been done.

The drains in the window wells are tapped into the drain tile that surrounds the foundation. That's how the frogs and grass clippings are getting in.

I agree with Eric. There should be a minium amount of clearance in between the range and a combustible surface, but the question is, is drywall a combustible surface? http://www.rumford.com/drywall.html I think I would at least mention it and let them figure it out. Download Attachment: Gas Range Clearances.pdf 30.91 KB